Comments on: Pop Quiz: What Do You Know About Veneer?

By: Fred

Fred — Wed, 20 May 2009 09:16:57 +0000

David – The primary reason for varying thicknesses of veneer over time is the quality of the saws used to cut the veneer. Early hand cut vneeer was 1/8 in thick because that was as thin as the saw could cut. As metals and saws improved thicknesses became smaller until the introduction of the circular saw in the early 19th century.

By the 1920s the standard thickness was 1/28in. Today modern saws can cut veneer as thin as 1/64 or 1/128.

All of this is explained in detail in my book “HOW TO BE A FURNITURE DETECTIVE”.

It is absolutely OK to repair broken veneer on a Victorian chair. Go for it and good luck.

Fred

By: David Bourgoin

David Bourgoin — Tue, 19 May 2009 18:31:05 +0000

Loved the artical, I have a couple of old pieces that have quite thick venner and was curious why some was thicker than others. I was planning to repair a victorian laddle back chair that has the venner broken off the front of the leg area. I guess legs rubbing is the culprit. It is very thick and now I no why, an under layer. Is it okay to repair something like that, or better to leave it be. It doesn’t look that bad, but could look better and I am just the guy to try, thanks.

By: Fred Taylor

Fred Taylor — Mon, 18 May 2009 18:55:40 +0000

R. Byers – The statement about vinegar is pretty much across the board. Vinegar is dilute (5%) acetic acid and it dissolves organic compounds. Hide glue, white glue and yellow glue (aliphatic resin) are all organic based and vinegar will release them. It will not have the same effect on synthetic glues like hot melt, epoxy or cyanoacrylate glues.

Hot water will also help dissolve hide glue and to some extent yellow glues but vinegar is quicker.

Thanks for reading the article and posting a question.

Fred Taylor
Worthologist
http://www.furnituredetective.com

By: Fred Taylor

Fred Taylor — Mon, 18 May 2009 18:50:57 +0000

Catine – It is very possible that your veneered Empire chairs are of the period. That was quite common.

Thanks for readfing thveneer article and posting a response.

Fred Taylor
Worthologist
http://www.furnituredetective.com

By: Greg W

Greg W — Sat, 16 May 2009 04:23:39 +0000

I am glad that somebody finally explained that veneer is NOT a mark of an inferior product. In my experience, usually the very finest antique furniture is veneered and there are woods and grain patterns which can only be used in veneer form, ie. burls and crotches. The use of veneers also goes back further than most people realize. I have a fabulous 17th C Antwerp Cabinet which is veneered in ebony, ivory, tortoise shell, and mahogany which is finer than ANYTHING which can be found today and is still more than 95% intact after more than 3 centuries.

By: R Byers

R Byers — Sat, 16 May 2009 02:09:30 +0000

A very well-written article about a subject that needs more coverage than it gets. I’m intrigued though, by the statement regarding the veneer glue and vinegar. Is that a blanket statement? Glues have changed over time, and I’m not sure about that at all. Maybe you can expound on the subject.

By: Mike Landry

Mike Landry — Fri, 15 May 2009 13:49:02 +0000

Thanks for sharing the article on veneer. Most people really don’t understand that importance of veneer or how to care for it.

By: Catine E. Perkins

Catine E. Perkins — Fri, 15 May 2009 11:34:22 +0000

I have six chairs that are mahogany veneer, Empire Style….seemingly,
Queen Ann innovation….could they be original….very heavy.
Thank you.
Catine

By: J. Linville

J. Linville — Fri, 15 May 2009 02:14:15 +0000

I hold Estate Sales in my spare time and found your article on veneer very enlightning. Most people seem to think that all veneers are inferior. It is hard to convince them to buy something with a chipped piece of veneer. Thanks so much for the article I have printed it for future reference.