The top lot in Christie’s sale of Important Watches, held on June 15, was this Vacheron Constantin clockwatch from the J. W. Ward Packard Collection, which brought $1.5 million, blowing past the pre-estimate was of $250,000-$500,000.

Christie’s sale of Important Watches, held on June 15, was like a tornado blowing through a hapless mid-western town. The collectible watch world will never be the same, as 416 wrist and pocket watches—many highly important and downright fabulous watches, including two unique, one-of-a-kind pocket watches from the famous James Ward Packard Collection—sold for prices ranging from as little as $1,000 and for as much as $1.5 million.

This sale, held at the acclaimed Christie’s auction house located at New York’s Rockefeller Center, was an event that will not be eclipsed for many a year to come. Nearly all the well-known and celebrated watch houses—past and present—were well represented in this sale.

The relationship between man and his machine was gloriously displayed, pictured and sold to the highest bidder—one watch at a time—in a fast-paced but well-organized high class auction. Christie’s team of auctioneers had their work cut out for them, and they ran through an enormous conglomeration of wrist and pocket watches dating from the 16th to the 21st century with nary a hitch!

The sale commenced with a stainless steel gent’s Cartier wristwatch with a pre-estimate of $1,500-$2,000, realizing $1,750, and ended with a gent’s 18-karat-gold Patek Philippe Wrist Chronograph hammering down at $175,000. Prices realized throughout the sale were high, with several upset bids on the more desirable and rare watches, both wrist and pocket. Rolex seems to have leveled off from a high of a few years ago, but is still very strong in the steel Sport Model area. Patek and V&C are as strong as ever, with many upset bids.

Nearly every watch in the sale brought the minimum pre-estimate set by Christie’s, and nearly 80 percent went well over the high estimate.

The top sale in the auction was the J. W. Ward Packard Vacheron Constantin clockwatch, which brought $1.5 million, blowing past the pre-estimate was of $250,000-$500,000. This watch was cheap at twice the price!

Four notable watch collections were sold in this fine sale:

• Racing enthusiast G. Garvin Brown III (1943-2010), lots 198-244, of modern and vintage sport model wrist chronographs, tourboulions and complicated watches, including Rolex, Jaeger LeCoultre, Breguet, V&C, Hublot, IWC, Longines, A. Lange, Paneri, Frank Muller, and several Porche design watches.

• Buck A. Mickel, collector of fine art, photography, rare timepieces and fast cars. Lots 283-306. Buck was an enthusiastic collector of modern and vintage Sport Model wrist watches including Rolex, Bell and Ross, Paneri and Patek Philippe. His Rolex Paul Newman 6239 wrist chrono brought a record-breaking $100,000. His Patek Philippe ref. 5970 realized $110,000.

• The Kronos Collection, lots 128-197; including a rare and early Oval Verge watch constructed in ivory (circa 1650), several early and rare Champlevé Dial pocket watches (circa 1680-1790), a few French Verge Oignons, several early complicated watches, repeaters, Automatons, early enamels, a Breguet Souscription, a Breguet enamel Montre a Tact, several fabulous chatelaine-watch combinations, culminating with a fantastic and rare musical gold, enamel and pearl set Automaton for the Chinese market, estimated at $50,000-$70,000, realizing $290,500.

• The James Ward Packard Collection, including a rare, one-of-a-kind Patek Philippe minute repeater with power reserve indicator (pre-sale estimated at $200,000-$400,000) realizing a whopping $820,000. A one-of-a-kind V&C 20-karat minute repeating clockwatch with chronograph emblazoned with J. W. Packard’s monogram pre-estimated at $250,000-$500,000, realizing a paltry $1.5 million.

A rare minute repeating Patek Philippe day-date moon phase with split chrono ref. 862 pocket watch ca. 1967 brought $220,000 (est. $100,000-$150,000).

This author had the distinct and honorable pleasure of handling and closely examining many of these fine watches, including the Packard watches. This was an incredible experience . . . a once in a lifetime experience! The Packard watches were all in incredible nearly unused condition; their intricate and highly complex mechanisms are finished to the nth degree. High-grade sweeping nickel bridges with gold jewel settings, polished and camphered chronograph mechanisms, all designed per J. Ward’s specific instructions and details. These watches are truly the epitome of the watchmaker’s art!

These fabulous collections were a just part of this unbelievable sale of high-grade, rare and complicated watches, which included myriad assortment of Sport Model wristwatches, built by the masters of timekeeping, the Swiss. But I shall not omit the wonderful and complicated timepieces produced by the French, German, Swedish and even the American makers represented in this once-in-a-lifetime sale. There were several chronometers by English makers Arnold, Frodsham and Dent, including a rare minute repeating perpetual chronograph pocket watch by Frodsham, sold for $28,000.

The French were represented by Breguet, Verger Frères and many wrist and pocket watches by the celebrated Louis Cartier of Paris.

The Germans were represented by A. Lange and Shone, with several antique and complicated pocket watches and modern wristwatches in gold platinum and stainless steel.

The Swedes were represented by Jules Jurgensen, including several rare and complicated pocket watches such as a split-second minute repeating 18K pocket watch that gaveled for $26,250 (pre-sale est. of $8,000-$12,000).

The American makers included several rare Walthams, and many scored upset prices. A Premier Maximus, boxed, with a pre-sale estimated of $1,500-$2,000 realized $12,500. A Riverside Maximus with power reserve, ($500-$700) sold for $6,875. An Edward Howard ($1,000-$1,500) brought $10,625. A Gruen 50th Anniversary ($1,500-$2,000), sold for $5,250. And finally, a Fasoldt ($15,000-$20,000) picked up a tidy $52,500.

A rare 18k pink gold Jules Jüregnsen hunter case minute repeating split-seconds chronograph keyless lever pocket watch with original box and certificate sold for $26,250.

Cartier watches—both wrist and pocket, including several of their famous and fabulous desk clocks—were well represented in this sale and brought very good prices for both
modern and antique timepieces. A Cartier 18K gold, diamond and nephrite petite Sonnerie astronomical alarm desk clock with day, date and moon phase (which held a pre-sale estimate of $150,000-$250,000) realized $290,500, while a Cartier 14K gold, diamond and turquoise Grand and Petit Sonnierie Minute repeating alarm desk clock, (est. at $60,000-$80,000) nailed down $110,500. A fabulous Cartier ladies’ 18K white gold, diamonds and rubies wristwatch (est. at $80,000-$120,000) sold for $98,500 and a gent’s 18K gold rectangular tank (est. at $1,500-$2,000), realized $3,250.

Paneri was well represented at this sale with several offerings: A black ceramic cusion shape driver’s watch realized $8,500. A stainless steel Ferrari auto with chrono realized $4,000. A limited-edition stainless steel auto with date with concealed dial realized $18,750, well past the pre-sale estimate of $8,000-$12,000

Rolex was as strong as ever with many sport models offered: Paul Newman 6239 in stainless steel realized $100,000 (est. $40,000-$60,000). A fine stainless steel Explorer 1655 ca. 1970 brought $14,375 (est. $7,000-$9,000). A stainless steel early GMT ref. 6542 (est. $20,000-$30,000) brought $43,750. A stainless steel Submariner ref. 6536 ca. 1951 (est. $10,000-$15,000) brought $13,750. A stainless steel Submariner ref. 5512 ca. 1965 (est. $2,500-$3,500) brought $6,250

Patek Philippe was also well represented in this fine sale, and proved to be the best investment in a vintage or antique watch, as there were many more than 50 wristwatches and nearly the same number in pockets, at 37 pieces, along with eight rare P.P. Clocks. A rare stainless steel Antimagnetic wristwatch (est. $10,000-$15,000) brought $24,000. A 2003 ref. 5125 18K white gold wristwatch brought $50,000 (pre-sale est. of $40,000-$60,000). A rare 18K white gold perpetual wristwatch ref. 5970 brought $110,000 (est. $80,000-$120,000). A rare minute repeating day-date moon phase with split chrono ref. 862 pocket watch ca. 1967 brought $220,000 (est. $100,000-$150,000). An extremely fine and rare P.P., ref. 773 pocket watch with cloisonné dial and enamel case in 18K gold, brought $962,500 (est. $40,000-$60,000). A very fine and late P.P. enamel pocket watch in 18K gold brought $110,500 (est. $50,000-$80,000). An 18K day-date moon phase minute repeating pocket watch ca. 1947, ref. 844 brought $105,000 (est. $60,000-$80,000). A star of the P.P offerings was ref. 2499, an 18K day-date moon phase wrist watch with chromo brought $902,500 (est. $600,000-$1,000,000).

This Waltham 18k gold openface keyless lever pocket watch with up-and-down and original box gaveled for $12,500.

American watches at this sale numbered less than a dozen, but were well represented with a Gruen 50th Anniversary hammering down at $5,250, two Edward Howards sold in the $10,600 range, a Premiere Maximus brought $12,500 and a Fasoldt Chronometer hammered at $52,500. Included were two Walthams from the Packard estate. These heirloom Walthams brought $2,750 for the silver and gold model ’72 and $2,200 for the model ’59 key wind key set pocket watch in 18K gold. These prices were in line with what the watches would bring without the provenance of Packard.

I could write a separate article on three dozen of the watches listed for sale in this auction. The Kronos Collection is nothing short of fabulous; a collection of museum-quality watches rarely seen anywhere, let alone for sale to the highest bidder! Prices realized on these unique, one-of-a-kind museum-quality watches were high. Collector interest was strong, bidding was fast and frenetic, in the sale room, on the telephone and on the Internet bidding system. Christie’s auction team was polite, professional, fast and even had moments of comedy as the auctioneer made quips about the bid numbers and confusion among the phone and Internet bidders. But all went well, and nary a neither bid nor bidder was lost.

Information about this sale is readily available online here.

Christie’s has a wonderful surfer-friendly website with lots of detailed pictures and full descriptions of the watches offered for sale at this auction, with prices realized. It makes me wonder why I had to go to New York and spend $60 for a catalog. Maybe because this was a perfect excuse to traipse all over midtown Manhattan, through the Jeweler’s Row on 47th Street, Rockefeller Plaza, Radio City Music Hall, Times Square, the Theater District and on to the West Side for dinner at any one of more ethnic restaurants that I can possibly choose from in one place, like no other! New York, New York, what a wonderful place!

David Mycko is a WorthPoint Worthologist specializing in antique and vintage watches.

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WorthPoint—Discover Your Hidden Wealth

The Art Nouveau styling of these timepieces is impressive, even down to the stylized James Ward Packard monograms stamped on the case backs.

Christie’s upcoming Sale of Important Watches, featuring exceedingly rare watches from the collection of automobile pioneer James Ward Packard—including two very fine and unusual watches, custom-designed by Packer himself and executed by the world’s foremost watch manufacturers, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin.

The auction, slated for June 15 at Christie’s Rockefeller Plaza location, will include 416 lots of fine, unusual and intricate modern and antique wrist and pocket watches representing all of the finest and most well-known watch houses. It is clearly a sale not to be missed by any serious watch aficionado or investor.

Packard was an accomplished engineer, innovator and businessman who founded two very successful companies, the Packard Electric Co. and the Packard Motor Car Co., which produced the premier luxury car of the early 1900s. He was among the first watch collectors to design and work directly with Patek and VC. The automotive entrepreneur was directly involved in the design of the case and mechanical functions of these two very fine watches.

“In watch collecting circles, this is a true fairy tale collection. J.W. Packard is the original icon who inspired generations of collectors that followed him,” said Sam Hines, head of Christie’s watch department. “As a mechanical engineer by training, he had a deep knowledge and passion for the craft of watch making that made him uniquely qualified to work directly the best Swiss manufacturers and create completely unique, one-of-a-kind watches that do not exist anywhere else in the world.”

“Beyond this,” Hines added, Packard “had a refined sense of style that was heavily inspired by the design motifs of the day, and it is a true delight to see Packard’s personal taste reflected in the elegant Art Nouveau styling of these fine timepieces, even down to the stylized monograms configured on the case back covers. These re-discovered watches are most likely the last of an extensive collection of watches. They come directly from the estate of JWP’s descendants, and there will most certainly be extensive interest from collectors from around the world.”

The James Ward Packard Vacheron Constantin
No.375551
Estimate: $250,000-$500,000

An exceptional, monumental and historically important Vacheron Constantin 20k-gold open-face, two-train trip 7 ½ minute repeating grande and petite sonnerie chronograph clockwatch, once belong to James Ward Packard.

This watch will include documented proof that J.W. Packard partnered with VC—the oldest watch manufacturer in Geneva—on the design. In 1918, the firm created this quite unique 20-karat-gold open-face chronograph clockwatch for Packard, according to his specific instructions, incorporating a customized combination of complications, including a trip minute repeating, petit and grand sonnerie, chronograph, and half-quarter repeating functions. High resolution repose-style floral designs decorate the case body in the Art Nouveau style, emblazoned with Packard’s monogram in blue enamel. This fine timepiece is in impeccable, nearly unused condition. The watch is accompanied with a detailed and neatly hand-drawn and labeled diagram, most likely in Packard’s own hand, detailing all the watches function settings.

This watch is most certainly the most significant VC to come to the marketplace in many years. Packard paid 3,320 Swiss francs for the watch in 1919, the year of delivery.

The James Ward Packard Patek Philippe
No. 174907
Estimate $200,000-$400,000

An extremely fine and unique Patek Philippe of 18k gold, open-face minute repeating keyless lever dress watch with up-and-down indicator, original box and certificate.

This second major discovery of the collection is a previously unrecorded and completely unique watch that Packard commissioned from Patek Philippe in 1919. Prior to this discovery, the records reflect the commissioning of 16 watches the firm produced specifically for Packard, each incorporating his own specifications. This is the only known minute-repeating watch by Patek Philippe to feature both power reserve and an unusual Murat-style case.

In nearly unused condition and still wrapped in its original wrapping paper the watch is stored in its original presentation box, with original certificate, spare crystal and mainsprings. Patek’s records indicate the watch was delivered on April 22nd of 1920. The majority of Packard’s watches were willed to the American Horological Institute upon his death in 1928, only two other Packard-owned Patek Philippe watches have ever appeared at auction. This is most certainly one of the most historically important Patek’s watches to come to market since the Antiquorum auction of Patek Philippe watches some years ago.

Other Packard Family Heirloom Watches

The first is a model ’59 Appleton, Tracy & Co. grade key wind key set an 18k gold hunter case that belonged to Packard’s father, Warren Packard. While not of the caliber of the P.P. or the V&C, it none the less a fine watch in its own right, and historically important.

An American Watch co. A silver and pink gold half hunter case keyless lever pocket watch, inscribed to Packard.

The last watch is a later 19th-century example, probably a gift to Warren Packard from James Packard and his brother William Doud Packard. The silver and pink gold half hunter, keyless lever pocket watch, with blue enameling, is estimated to bring $2,000-$3,000. Replete with a picture of a boy in a sailor suit, it is engraved with “Wm. Packard FROM THE BOYS – Mar. 1874.”

This author will travel to New York to preview these and all the other fine watches that Christie’s will be offering for sale to the highest bidder on June 15 and report in detail the results and prices realized at this historic sale. Stay tuned!

David Mycko is a WorthPoint Worthologist specializing in antique and vintage watches.

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WorthPoint—Discover Your Hidden Wealth

This high-quality, 18k gold pocket, made by little-known watchmaker H.L. Matile in a small town in Switzerland, is a fine example of a “technical watch.” But its day may be numbered, simply because it contains about $4,300 worth of gold. More and more gold watches are getting sold for scrap, melted down and disappearing from the collectibles market forever.

The gold and silver markets have been doing a steady rise for the last year or more, bringing on the demise of literally thousands of gold and silver collectibles and antiques of all nature. But watches have been hit particularly hard. I just returned from a National Association of Watch & Clock Collectors‘ Regional Show in Daytona Beach, Fla., and witnessed a scene that would sicken any serious collector.

A gentleman I had never seen before at any of these shows was buying gold, silver and even gold-filled watch cases for scrap. He was rapidly up filling a showcase with his purchases for all to see. His obvious aim was to buy as many cases as he could and take them to a smelter to have them melted down into an ingot, assay it and sell it to one of the many gold buying organizations that deal in precious metals for a profit. With the price of gold on the date of this publication is $1,434, you can see why he was busy for three days as collectors and dealers alike lined up to sell their watches.

The process is quite simple, if not brutal. Many of the watches had already had their movements and crystals removed, but there is almost always a non-gold part that needs to be removed, via a pair of pliers or a hammer. Watches—a complex compilation of different metals and parts—are in some cases, of dubious karat. The process involves chopping and filing into the covers and applying aqua regia acid to ascertain the actual gold content. This is almost always a callous and brutal process, but it doesn’t really matter, because you’ve already made the decision to destroy and melted down the watch in the end. The only thing that really matters here is the almighty dollar—how much you can get for the gold or silver content.

Now, I have been a professional watch dealer for more than 35 years, and I have scrapped my share of watch cases, jewelry and silver objects, so I’m no saint and I really don’t mean to sound sanctimonious, but God Almighty, there’s got to be a limit! At this rate, there won’t be any watches left to trade, and that will be the demise of the watch collector’s hobby!

The dial of this watch is made of three pieces of high-quality porcelain enamel work of art, precision-fitted to each other perfectly, and the beautifully detailed second and minute track, topped off with Breguet-style blued-steel hands.

As a watchmaker and watch dealer, I have put together an extensive collection of watch movements and parts (sorry, not for sale!). Now, I’m talking about a huge pile of watch movements here, and that’s only the tip of the iceberg; there’re many more folks out there just like me. It is true, all these now-defunct watch companies like Waltham and Elgin made millions of watches, but there is an end. Mr. Jon Hansen, Esq., founder of NAWCC Chapter 149, has been exposing for years on the evil of dismembering watches for parts and profit. He is RIGHT! There has to be an end to this practice of destroying these mechanical works of art simply for an immediate profit.

I have pictured in this article a fine, high-quality but very heavy 18k gold pocket watch as an example. While it is a great watch, it is a “technical watch.” In other words, it is more of a complicated mechanical wonder than an artistic diamond-studded beautiful work of art. Its beauty is intrinsic and lies in its mechanical achievement and high quality. Its maker was a little-known watchmaker located in a small town in Switzerland devoted to the watchmaker’s art, Locle. His name was H.L.Matile, and he made very fine watches—his devotion and passion is evident in this very fine example bearing his name. Every part is quality and finished to near perfection. No expense was spared in the production of this watch: solid pink gold jewel settings; pink gold gears; beautiful and detailed damascene pattern on the bridges; mirror polish on the steel parts; beautiful ruby jewels. The chronograph mechanism is located under the dial and is a mechanical wonder! Even the steel parts under the dial are polished and finished perfectly. The dial is a high-quality porcelain enamel work of art comprised of three parts, precision-fitted to each other perfectly, and the beautifully detailed second and minute track, topped off with Breguet-style blued-steel hands.

The chronograph mechanism is located under the dial and is a mechanical wonder! Even the steel parts under the dial are polished and finished perfectly.

The crowning achievement to this fine watch is the case, although Matile probably didn’t make it, (few watchmakers made their own cases or dials), but there was no expense spared here. In total, it has a very-high gold content of nearly 3 ounces of 18K-gold! That translates to almost $4,300 of scrap gold in today’s market! The value of the raw material will most certainly ring a death knell to this very fine watch. Watch collectors will only pay so much for a simple gold chronograph pocket watch, and $4,300 is nearly three times what the collector market will bear, especially with a little known maker like Matile.

I was fortunate to be in the right place at the right time and purchased this fine watch before a scrap dealer could put his pliers and hammer to work. But I am a dealer, and my investment can only sit for so long. I will try my very best to place this watch with a watch collector or investor, but I have bills to pay and limited capital to work with. How long can I tie my money up in a watch that simply won’t sell for more that it’s gold content? To add insult to injury, this fine watch has provenance: it was presented to its first lucky owner in 1882 from his father, then passed on to his son in 1910. This very fine family heirloom has been in the family for three or possibly four generations, and was a treasured for decades until just recently, when it was sold for scrap metal to pay the bills. What a shame, and a sad, sad, sad state of affairs.

David Mycko is a WorthPoint Worthologist specializing in antique and vintage watches.

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WorthPoint—Discover Your Hidden Wealth

The back of a watch made for the original Chinese market. These watches usually featured enamel colorful designs of flowers and other sights of nature.

The Chinese have their own taste in things, from dress to food and just about everything in between. This includes watches and jewelry, and since I don’t know too much about jewelry, I better write about watches. Fortunately, I know a little about Chinese watches.

Nowadays, the Chinese make everything, including watches. But there aren’t any antique Chinese-made watches.

At the turn of the 19th century, the Chinese became aware of the rest of the world had to offer. One of the things the West discovered about China is that they didn’t have watches. Oh, there were watches, but they came in the pockets of foreigners; silly little contraptions constantly being fiddled with by their owners. They were a Western contrivance, and wealthy Chinese didn’t see the need in them.

Eventually, though, a fad took hold and many Chinese decided that they had to have watches. And not these plain, ordinary contraptions Westerners were carrying around in their pockets, but special watches, suited to the Oriental style. They had to do certain things, have just the right appearance, and there had to be two, in case one got broken—there were no watchmakers or repairmen capable of repairing such a delicate instrument until much later in the mid 1800s. Besides, the little woman might also want one, too.

I can find no information on when the first watches turned up in China, and since there were no watch manufacturers in China, there are no records. The first Chinese watches were imported from Switzerland, and here again, no one can tell me when the first Chinese watch came about (could it be that no one cares?). Anyway, the exact dates are almost inconsequential. My best guess is the late 1700s to early 1800s, but more like 1820-1830.

Now, on to the watches! They were some of the most fabulous watches ever produced for any one country. They were singularly unique—made of precious metals, both gold and silver, featured certain unique complications, and sported enamel—lots of enamel—with plenty of colors.

The face of an original Chinese market watch, with every minute marked in the chapter ring.

These watches are highly sought after today, especially by the Chinese. Watches produced for the original Chinese market featured:

• Bright, vibrant colors, like wildflowers in a field. And flowers turned out to be the most favored design on Chinese watches. Occasionally, a portrait of a Chinese noble or madam would grace a watch, but flowers were the order of the day, and finding anything else will be extremely rare.

• The watches need to be big and impressive, so size was very important. Small watches do exist, but are infinitely more scarce. They would boats a nice, big white porcelain dial with every minute marked in the chapter ring. Oddly, Roman Numerals were used, as opposed to Chinese numbers. Additionally, the watches must have had a seconds hand, and the biggest and best was a sweep seconds hand. This was the formula for the case and dial.

These watches were not only beautiful on the outside, but also beautiful to look at on the inside. Movements were almost always intricately engraved and embellished with functional jewels.

• As for the mechanism, the seconds hand had to jump, literally, from one second mark to the next. The invention of the Crab Duplex escapement was perfect! The Crab Duplex had a delay in the oscillation of the balance wheel, which gave pause to the seconds hand and giving it a “jump” in its rotation around the dial. Nearly all Chinese watches are Crab Duplexes, or English-style straight line levers, which also had a slight pause between ticks.

• Pocket watches of the day were not only beautiful on the outside, but also beautiful to look at on the inside. Movements were almost always intricately engraved, embellished with functional jewels, and quite often with precious metals like gold and silver. The Chinese wanted more. The LePine style plate layout suited the look, and nearly all Chinese watches have this very distinctive mechanism layout. The LePine style plate layout also made the Chinese watch thinner, as compared to “fat” European and English watches were considered ungainly, chunky contrivances. The Chinese wanted them slim and stylish. They also wanted them extravagantly and elaborately engraved and gilded, a nice, pretty gold color.

• The case had to have a button for a spring-activated back cover and a glazed-over bezel, to quickly and conveniently display the marvel under the back cover. Quite often the balance wheel had blued-steel winged bats mounted on the wheel itself. This was to ward off evil spirits.

Under the back cover, quite often, the balance wheel had blued-steel winged bats mounted on the wheel itself. This was to ward off evil spirits.

• Later, Chinese watches took on more sophisticated and outer worldly and technical aspects, but gold and enamel would remain a high choice for the Chinese. Makers for the Chinese market would be largely, if not exclusively, Swiss and the French. The watches are rarely signed by the makers, as this was almost typical for many Swiss makers anyway.

The size of the fragile dial makes it difficult to find a perfect example, and gold is always elusive and expensive, so Chinese watches were also produced in silver. Oddly enough, the silver watches are rarely enameled, but the movements are almost always elaborately engraved, making for a lovely surprise when the pendant button is activated, displaying all that engraving.

Top-flight examples like the watch pictured in this article will bring a handsome sum; anywhere from $5,000 to $35,000, and up. Plain, silver watches can be purchased on eBay for as little $200 to $300, or less.

No watch collection is complete without at least one example.

My sincere thanks and credits to Howard Gitman, The Movement King, the Swiss, and Janet Wencel, who makes me write.

David Mycko is a WorthPoint Worthologist specializing in antique and vintage watches.

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WorthPoint—Discover Your Hidden Wealth

A Babe Ruth watch, 1940s era, mint in box with a baseball $500-$800-plus. Without the box, $200-$300.

Sports collectibles is a hugely popular item for collectors of today and yesterday, and there is no sign that their popularity is waning. Competitive sports probably date back to the day when a caveman tried to outdo the hunting abilities of his neighbor. He may have kept a few souvenirs from those hunts, like a saber-tooth tiger fang or an antler, but unlike the like the skin or the meat—which was consumed—those were his trophies; the first sports collectible, if you will. Hanging around his neck, it gave him bragging rights for as long as his neighbor couldn’t out do him.

Sports collectibles obviously fall into several different categories and sub-categories, both new and old. Since I know watches, this is where I will concentrate with this article and stay with two categories: commemorative issue; and presentation (and I’ll stick with vintage items).

Commemorative issue watches are commercially produced watches with a star athlete’s name and, quite often, his (or hers) picture emblazoned on the dial. They are usually cheaply made, low-end watches housed in base-metal cases. Packaged in colorful, stylish and eye catching advertising, the boxes that these watches came in are quite scarce, compared to the watches themselves, and in some instances are worth more than the watches themselves.

Golf ledged Sam Snead's 1930's gold-filled Gruen would bring $500-plus.

The engraved back of the Snead watch.

Presentation watches are much better quality watches, quite often housed in gold, silver or at least gold-filled, produced by companies such as Waltham, Hamilton or Girrard Peregaux. These will be engraved with the player’s name in presentation fashion, usually with a date, place or an event. Sometimes there will be several, all the same, presented to the whole team. However, the usual sports presentation watch was given to an individual commemorating his induction to the Hall of Fame or for a championship victory. These watches are unique and will usually be one of a kind. The fame of the player will obviously dictate the ultimate value, and intrinsic value of the watch itself will be of secondary consideration.

An Elgin white gold-filled watch, presented to members of the University of Miami team after winning the 1952 Gator Bowl. Miami beat Clemson, 14-0. Its value is in the $75-$150-plus range.

1960s Willie Mays watch, in mint condition and in the original box: $300-$500-plus; without the box, $75-$150,

1960s Football All Pro watch ($75-$125).

Barbara Ann Scott's 1950's Timex, in mint condition and in the original box. Its value is strictly a matter of speculation. What would someone pay for a watch commemorating a little known (by today's standards) ice skater?

A short trip down eBay’s sports collectibles categories will boggle the mind with myriad choices in every field of the sports world. But vintage watches are scarce in any of the categories of sports, and they do not come cheap. Presentation watches are very hard to find and almost always unique. Couple that fact with a famous name, and the price could go through the roof.

David Mycko is a WorthPoint Worthologist specializing in antique and vintage watches.

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WorthPoint—Discover Your Hidden Wealth

The 1953 Timex Ben Hogan folding watch features a simple touch to a button on the side of the watch would activate a spring-loaded lid, exposing the dial—facing upward—making the reading of time quick and convenient. Worn clipped to the belt, it left the wrist unfettered to comfortably swing a golf club.

Ben Hogan is a very big name in golf, preceding such iconic players as Arnold Palmer and Jack Nickolas, and just as famous. Ben Hogan lent his name to all sorts of golf equipment, clothing, and accessories, but most especially golf clubs. One interesting item with the Hogan moniker is this watch, which was worn clipped to the belt, leaving the wrist unfettered to swing a club. Anne S. from Sacramento has such as watch, and requested a valuation for it through WothPoint’s “Ask A Worthologist” program. I received the request and this is what is was able to tell her:

A simple touch to a button on the side of the watch would activate a spring-loaded lid, exposing the dial—facing upward—making the reading of time quick and convenient. The lid snaps shut with an easy motion, leaving the view of alligator skin, perfectly matching the belt it is clipped to… very stylish!

The watch was made by Timex, which was and still is a very successful producer of cheap but functional and stylish sport watches, touted for their toughness. I can still hear those old TV commercials with Curt Gowdy espousing that Timex watches “take a licking and keep on ticking!”

The cases of these watches were inevitably made from low-cost material, like aluminum or stainless steel. This one is covered with faux alligator—possibly leather or even vinyl—to give the appearance of a more expensive watch. Golf watches have been produced since the 1930s by several different makers, the most proliferate being Movado, but some even sport the name Cartier and are made of Sterling silver and gold. Golf, until the 1950s was basically a rich man’s game. The Ben Hogan line of golf products was one of first to open the game to the working man. The mechanism of this watch will be a cheap but robust pin-lever movement with a 30-hour run time. The watch was sold along with a whole line of golfing accessories bearing the Hogan name, all very affordable and reasonably priced to appeal to a wide range of golfers. Stylish enough for the wealthy and cheap enough for the working sportsman, this watch is also a veritable boon to the collector of today.

The 1953 Timex Ben Hogan folding watch side view.

The belt clip, which allowed the wearer to know the time and keep the wrist unfettered.

The cover is faux alligator to give the appearance of a more expensive watch.

Most of the Hogan line—especially the clubs—have survived to be fairly common today, but the more fragile piece, like this watch, are a good bit more difficult to locate. Unfortunately, there’s not enough demand or quality for it to command a high price, but it’s a piece of Ben Hogan golf accessories that would make a whole lot of collectors happy.

This watch would have an insurance replacement value at $200-$300, mainly because of the difficulty in locating another with condition. Realistic value is $75 to $150, and without the Ben Hogan moniker, it would be had for $25. A Movado version would fetch in the $350-$500 range in silver, and quite a bit more in gold.

Author’s Note: Repairing a Timex golf watch—like for all Timex watches—is almost impossible short of an overhaul or complete replacement of the watch mechanism. Timex watches were never designed to be repaired and Timex used to supply watchmakers with a line of different watch mechanisms in a kit, complete and ready to replace the former broken mechanism. Quick, easy and cheap. The Timex watch was one of the original and most successful of the “use and toss” products of the “disposable Society.” Collecting Timex watches can be interesting and fun. Putting together an interesting collection can be challenging but very reasonable and easy on the pocket.

Remember, they take a licking and keep on ticking!

David Mycko is a WorthPoint Worthologist specializing in antique and vintage watches.

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This medium quality English fusee pair case “contract watch” was made in Liverpool, England and shipped to Philadelphia, Pa., where it was finished by B&E Clark. It was later sold to Thomas E. Eisenbeis around 1835 and later carried by Henry Eisenbeis during his service in the Civil War.

This is a medium quality English fusee pair case “contract watch” carried by a Union soldier during the Civil War. As I have written earlier, there is a difference between a “Civil War watch” and a “Civil War Relic.” This watch is certainly the former, as it existed before 1861, the evidence that it is the latter is scant.

This watch started life with a long travel across “the pond” from Liverpool, England, to Philadelphia, Pa., was then retailed in Reading, Pa. and carried by its proud owner and his descendants for many decades thereafter. The original owner was Thomas E. Eisenbeis, a rather successful farmer with a modest farm in Leesport, Pa. just outside the city of Reading. He purchased the watch around 1835 from W.E. Meyer, a simple retail jeweler and watchmaker in Reading.

Eisenbeis gave his prized possession to his son Henry E., following the time-honored tradition of passing along prized possessions from father to son. Henry carried the watch for many years before himself passing it on his son, M.L. At this point in time, the watch had become an archaic relic and treasured family heirloom, safely tucked away in another family heirloom, a Federal period highboy dresser at the family farm in Leesport.

I was very fortunate to purchase this watch from the great-great-great-granddaughter of Henry Eisenbeis, along with a brief verbal history of the Eisenbeis family, including, in particular, the story of Henry, his watch, and most importantly, his Civil War adventure and participation in the Battle of Gettysburg.

Henry E. Eisenbeis was born in Leesport in Jan. of 1839 to hardy hard working Pennsylvania farmers Thomas and Maud Eisenbeis. He was the oldest of six children, three boys and three girls. Theirs was a large and successful farm and dairy.

Henry was approaching manhood and preparing to take a leadership role in the family enterprise when hostilities between the states broke out. He joined the Union Army, enrolled into the Ringgold Light Artillery, which was recruiting in Reading, and mustered on April 18, 1861, in Harrisburg, Pa.

The inner and outer cases of the watch are composed of Coin Silver (.900 fine) and bear incised silver marks similar to English hallmarks. Inside the outer case is a cloth pad to insulate the two cases from rubbing against each other.

The inside of the watch, marked “B&E Clark” and “Philadelphia.”

When their nation called, these men of Reading were among the first to respond. Following the capitulation of Fort Sumter and in response to President Lincoln’s first call to arms in April 1861, the men of the Ringgold Light Artillery, National Light Infantry, Washington Artillery, Logan Guard and Allen Infantry departed their Pennsylvania homes and families and marched into history as the First Defenders, for they were the first volunteer troops to reach Washington after the start of Civil War.

Despite this distinguished achievement and regardless of their place in American history, little is known and much less has been written about these men and the companies they comprised. With “First in Defense of the Union,” Civil War historian John David Hoptak fills this void in historiography and brings the story of the First Defenders vividly to life by relying heavily upon soldiers’ letters and diaries to tell of their enlistment into service, their harrowing march through Baltimore, their arrival in the nation’s capital, and their three-month term of service with the Federal forces.

Medical personnel and ambulances prior to the battle of Gettysburg. Henry Eisenbeis, who was wounded early in the war, was volunteering as a doctor’s assistant, and was at Gettysburg.

The Ringgold Light Artillery of Reading was originally organized and equipped in 1850, under Capt. James McKnight, a veteran of the Mexican-American War. It was armed with four six-pound brass field pieces and caissons, with full equipments of artillerists, including sabers, and mustered some 200 men. It was composed of good material, was well drilled, and was the pride of the city of Reading. It had participated in several volunteer encampments; one at Easton of a week’s duration, where it was entertained by ex-Governor Reeder, and other leading citizens.

Henry Eisenbeis was seriously wounded early in the war and carried this legacy with him until his death in the form of a serious limp. He was shot in the lower part of his leg by a Rebel sharpshooter while defending a position outside of Washington D.C. His medical condition precluded any further military service, but he later volunteered to assist the Union troops as a doctor’s assistant and was on hand at the Battle of Gettysburg.

I was told of letters of accommodation, medals, uniforms and testimonials by local prominent citizens and politicians. All have since disappeared with the passage of time and neglect. This is a shame, but I was fortunate enough to have his story related to me by his last surviving relative before her passing. All this makes for an interesting article, but not nearly enough to make this watch an historic Civil War relic; there is simply not enough documented provenance. I have estimated the value of this watch at $1,500, but just recently sold it to a collector for half this amount.

The watch was cased and finished by B.E. Clark in Philadelphia and bears their name on the back plates of the movement. The inner and outer cases are composed of Coin Silver (.900 fine) and bear incised silver marks similar to English hallmarks. The dial is typical domed glass enamel with gold hands, the glass crystal protecting the dial shows much use and pocket scratches, as do the inner and outer cases, all original and “as found.” The medium-grade English fusee movement has a patent rack lever escarpment. It is in very good running condition.

Now for the interesting part: Inside the outer case are paper linings with a cloth pad to insulate the two cases from rubbing against each other. This was a common practice with pair case fusee watches of this period. This form of protection was also an opportunity for watchmakers to advertise their trade by inserting a “watch paper” with their name and date of repair upon it. The “watch papers” inside this watch are home made from the local newspaper and are a literal “time capsule.” One partial story tells of “some 3,000 Rebel Calvary have advanced as far as Sarcoxie, and that their foraging parties are following closely the retreat of Hunter’s division. The Unionists that had compromised themselves by affiliating with the army of Freemont, are now disserting their homesteads, and seeking refuge etc.”

Rarely do I encounter such personal provenance with an antique watch, and I’m not sure how much this lovely old lady remembered or embellished the story, but I sure did enjoy listening to it. I certainly enjoyed owning it and re-telling the story here, and I even made a modest profit on the sale of the watch.

This is what collecting antiques is all about; better than the investment money thing. Not everything has a value and a price.

My thanks and credit to Mrs. Margarite Brown, Richard Newman, John David Hoptak, B.E. Clark, Gen David Hunter, Gen John C. Fremont.

David Mycko is a WorthPoint Worthologist specializing in antique and vintage watches.

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Abraham Lincoln’s watch is considered a “hands down” Civil War relic.

It may seem you’d need to be very gullible to believe what many sellers put in their descriptions, namely that every other key-wound pocket watch on eBay is a “Civil War Watch.” Sounds a little too-far fetched to be true, but in many instances, they are 100-percent correct, if the watch in question pre-dates the spring of 1865.

Truth be known, many thousands of pocket watches were manufactured, both in America and Europe, during this tumultuous time, and imported to the USA. So, just what is a “Civil War watch?” A definition is probably in order.

There are several differing schools of thought, and I will attempt to relate them to you and bring some clarity as to what a Civil War watch actually is. To start, we’ll need to clarify the difference between a Civil War watch and a “Civil War relic.”

The Civil War was an American War, so Civil War enthusiasts claim the only real Civil War watch is a Waltham, made by the only American watch company in existence prior to and during the Civil War. If we are to fall in line with this line of thinking, life would be simpler, but it just isn’t so. There were many other watchmakers doing business and making watches right here in the good ’ol U.S. of A., back to Colonial times, in fact. Waltham is considered to be the first American watch company to successfully produce watches using Eli Whitney’s method of mass production, but that’s another story. Still, there is much credence to this school of thought, and any Waltham watch with a serial number under 180,000 is considered a Civil War watch.

An example of a Waltham issued to a telegrapher for the Union Army’s Military Telegraph Corps.

The rifle most favored by Civil War enthusiasts and consider the “Civil War gun” is the Springfield Percusion Rifle, the first successful product ever mass-produced under Eli Whitney’s patented method production with interchangeable parts. This rifle was carried almost exclusively by Union soldiers, and Confederate soldiers would carry a Springfield when they could capture one. While all Springfields produced before 1864 are considered “Civil War,” not all were carried by soldiers, and these should not be considered Civil War relics, even though they sometimes are. They are all guns—weapons of war—and hold a distinction that a watch simply cannot. However, a watch can be a Civil War relic; all we need is a little thing called “provenance.” Simply put: a documented history or obvious evidence of the history of the particular item.

About a year ago, I wrote an article on the inscription hidden in Abraham Lincoln’s watch. This famous watch is considered a “hands down” Civil War relic. Having been carried by the Supreme Commander of the Union Forces, we can even say it “saw action.” This watch is not only documented, it contains a hidden inscription pertaining to the war. This very, very “Civil War” watch was actually made in England, cased and sold in the U.S. to Lincoln before the war. Another more recent article is on a Waltham issued to a telegrapher for the Union Army’s Military Telegraph Corps, made in this country by an American company during the Civil War and issued to a members of a branch of the Union military service, which makes it another a genuine Civil War relic (if one is to believe the engraving!).

So, examples like these aforementioned watches must be considered are genuine, documented Civil War relics, and hold a place in American History. Therefore, they will command a greater price from a collector or at auction.

Below you will find photos of four Civil War watches, only one of which has the provenance to make it a Civil War relic:

This watch (above) belonged to Lt. Charles White, who commanded a Confederate Army volunteer unit—the Auburn Guards. I was presented this watch by his men on Oct. of 1860 (if the engraving is to be believed!). This watch has seen much use and most certainly was carried by Lt. White during the war. The first Volunteer Regiment of Alabama Militia was formed in Mobile in 1845 and commanded by Col. John B. Todd from 1845 to the outbreak of the war. The regiment consisted of the Mobile Rifles, the State Artillery Company, the Mobile Cadets, the German fusiliers, the Washington Light Infantry, the City Troop, the Independent Rifles, the Gardes Lafayette and Gulf City Guard. The 2nd Independent Volunteer Regiment of the State of Alabama was formed in Montgomery on July 25, 1860, under Col. Tennant Lomax, and included the Montgomery True Blues, the Tuskegee Light Infantry, the Auburn Guards and The Metropolitan Guards. The Auburn Guards, from Montgomery, which also formed in 1860, became part of the 2nd Alabama Volunteer Regiment. More information and some photographs about 2nd Alabama Volunteer Regiment, click here.

Next is an English-made Joseph Johnson watch (above) housed in an American-made gold hunter case. There is no documentation, Civil War or otherwise, be it engravings or etchings, on this watch, but it most definitely of the Civil War period. Its estimated value is $2,000, mainly for the gold content.

Third is an American-made Waltham #156531, circa1864, housed in its original American Waltham Watch Co. 18K gold hunter case. Again, there is no historical documentation, engravings or etchings to give it provenance as being carried by a military man, but it, too, is of Civil War vintage. Its estimated value is $2,500, with the gold content again being a significant factor.

The final example is watch made prior to hostilities. It is Waltham #10186 (above), circa 1858, housed in its original silver hunter case, and also has no historical documentation or engraving, but the likelihood of this watch having been carried during the Civil War is much greater than the first two examples. Still, it is not a Civil War relic; merely a Civil War period watch. Its value is $2,500 because it is a rare Waltham.

The case marking of a gold Waltham was an American eagle, but also dubbed the “broken-wing chicken.” This is the typical marking for an American Civil War-era watch, gold or silver.

This last photo (above) is of a gold Waltham’s case marking, which was dubbed the “broken-wing chicken,” or, more accurately, the American eagle. This is the typical marking for an American Civil War-era watch, gold or silver.

I have chosen these four examples because they so closely typify the “Civil War watch,” or at least cover the obvious. There are many other watches out there that are of Civil War era and don’t look anything like these, be they made in England or Switzerland, imported to the US and retailed by an American jeweler. Any one of these watches could have been in the pocket of a soldier as he fought in any battle of say, Gettysburg of the Wilderness, but without documentation, it’s just another antique watch. Actually, the likelihood of a typical infantryman carrying an expensive pocket watch with him on a military campaign or into battle would be rare, if not unheard of. What would a foot soldier need a watch for? An officer would have a need for a watch, but it would need to be a relatively inexpensive and durable timepiece. English and Swiss watches of the day were prohibitively expensive and fragile, as well as difficult to repair. The American Waltham watch was the perfect watch for the job, as they were well-made, durable and relatively easy to repair, thanks to Whitney’s system of mass production and interchangeable parts. The technology of the day had not yet advanced to “stem winding,” so all Civil War watches are “key wind.”

My thanks and credit to the Waltham Watch Co. Abe Lincoln, Jefferson Davis, and of course Generals Lee and Grant and all the foot soldiers they commanded.

David Mycko is a WorthPoint Worthologist specializing in antique and vintage watches.

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This watch, Waltham P.S. Bartlet made in 1864, a genuine relic of the U.S. Military Telegraph Corps and really belongs in a museum devoted to the history of communications and telegraphy. It is by pure chance that I have the great fortune and honor to own this fine watch.

The U.S. Military Telegraph Corps was formed in 1861 following the outbreak of the American Civil War. David Strouse, Samuel M. Brown, Richard O’Brian and David H. Bates—all from the Pennsylvania Railroad Company—were sent to Washington, D.C. to serve in the newly created office. In October of that year, Anson Stager was appointed department head. They were charged with maintaining communications between the federal government in Washington and the commanding officers of the far-flung units of the Union Army. As such, they played a large part in intercepting and deciphering Confederate communications.

During the Civil War, the Morse telegraph was employed for the first time to direct widely dispersed armies and move them in unison, as well as to flash news reports of victories or defeats almost instantly all over our broad land. In fact, Edward M. Stanton, Lincoln’s War Secretary, called the telegraph—and that branch of the service that supported it, his “right arm.” In his annual report, delivered on Dec.5, 1863, he used this language:

“The military telegraph, under the direction of Colonel Stager and Major Eckert, has been of inestimable value to the service and no corps has surpassed-few have equaled-the telegraph- operators in diligence and devotion to their duties.”

— “Lincoln in the Telegraph Office: Recollections of the United States Military,” by David Homer Bates

The story of the USMT makes for extremely interesting reading. One of the most often overlooked but yet one of the most valuable Civil War services. American history and Civil War buffs will find this story interesting and fascinating:

A member of the U.S. Military Telegraph Corps tending to the all-important wires.

The USMT and the Signal Corps (which used flags, semaphore and lights to signal) were, at the upper echelon’s, often in bitter dispute over control of the communications during the war. As with all armies, at the lower operational level, the men and women of the USMT and the Signal Corps most often got along and co-operated well. It is a credit to both services that the individuals who performed the work did so under very adverse military and political pressures. Although the members of the USMT were often paid much more than the members of the Signal Corps (and yet considered themselves underpaid and even “struck” for higher wages), they were never considered members of the military organization and as such were denied the benefits of a pension and the considerable political power at the local “at home” level. Conversely, the members of the Signal Corps were often derided by the political powers running the USMT as being inferior in both ability and actual function.

In truth, the functions were very often different. The USMT handled logistical and strategic communications at the Grand Tactical and Strategic level. The Signal Corps operated at the Tactical and Grand Tactical level, with the latter very evident at Fredricksburg and Chancellorsville. The former was obvious at Gettysburg, to name but one instance. It was when an effort was made to blend the functions that the conflicts flared up. In the end, each service bled and died, and whether it was by direct or indirect fires mattered little.

In the West these functions were sharper and clearer over the vast distances. One can clearly see the telegraph stretching forward and backward during the Grand Tactical movement of Gen. Sherman (who had his own pocket telegraph set) as he executed the first and, perhaps, best example of the Indirect Strategic Approach on the American continent. Across that 40-mile-wide front were the flags and torches of the Signal Corps, performing much as did the Confederate Signal Service, gathering and dispersing information and coordinating the widespread units. In the East, during this same time frame, the Signal Corps was relegated to observation, while the United States Military Telegraph operated, perhaps, right down to the brigade level. This was the time of Petersburg and trench warfare.

A telegraph operation set up in the field. The telegraph was used during the Civil War by Union forces to coordinate widely dispersed units.

In a twist of irony, when the war ended, the civilians who ran the USMT decided that they wanted nothing to do with the telegraph lines utilized by the military out west and the service was turned over to the Signal Corps. Much of this had to do with the USMT “brass’” failure to make money speculating on events in the West. This venal trait of the upper echelon of the USMT was never more in evidence than the close relationship of Thomas T. Eckert with the extremely sharp speculator Jay Gould. Eckert routinely provided Gould with information passed over the “secure” USMT circuits. Gould used this information for his speculations in railroads in the occupied areas and in gold by betting against the dollar with advanced knowledge of a Union defeat or for the dollar by using advance knowledge of a Union victory. The failure of the USMT to pass this information to Gould during the battle of Gettysburg was infuriating to him and he demanded that Eckert correct the situation. The movement to take over the Signal Telegraph system of deploying wire was given a strong boost with Gould money. Soon the Signal Telegraph would cease to exist and the control of the content over the lines would pass to Eckert, and thus to Gould. By 1865, Gould had parleyed $50,000 into several million dollars. Of course, none of these transactions were known to the brave and talented individuals who made up the bulk of the United States Military Telegraph. To them are due much honor and fame. They represent a critical chapter in the history of the telegraph.

The watch pictured in this article is a genuine relic of the USMT and really belongs in a museum devoted to the history of communications and telegraphy. It is by pure chance that I have the great fortune and honor to own this fine watch. It is a Waltham P.S. Bartlet, serial number 123,606, dating its production to late January or early February of 1864, which means it most certainly saw service during the War between the States.

Waltham produced many thousands of watches during this period, but relatively few actually saw service in the war, and fewer still have survived. The P.S. Bartlet was Waltham’s second quality or grade of production watch, deemed more than suitable for timekeeping service for the wartime communications of the time. The watch has 15 jewels (white sapphires) in screwed-in jewel settings, lever escapement with a monometallic gold balance wheel, uncompensated, 30-hour run time, and is key wound. It is an 18-size full-plate model 1857. The watch is housed in its original coin silver hunting case with beautiful and functional “Barley Corn” engraving. The engraved surface of the Watch actually made the watch less likely to “slip” from the hand when handled. The watches’ timekeeping capability is quite poor by today’s standards and was only slightly above average for the standards of the time 1864. There were many watch companies in England and Switzerland that produced watches of much higher quality and timekeeping abilities available during this period, but they were also much more expensive and repairs and replacement would be more costly and difficult. Waltham’s unique methodology of interchangeable parts and mass production made this watch much cheaper and easier to repair than its European counterparts, along with R.A. Robbins (Waltham’s president) strict quality control, gave the USMT a quality, durable and functional timekeeping instrument.

The end of the Civil War also signaled the demise of the USMT. Its members were unceremoniously dismissed from service without severance or recognition, but they were allowed to keep the watches they were issued. I have no idea how many watches were issued and simply cannot find even how many people were put in service for the USMT other than they employed the use of former railroad men and (women!) in their ranks. Their service and devotion was amazingly unrecognized and ignored until 1898, when they finally received thanks and letters of recognition by the federal government.

The story of this watch and its owner has unfortunately been lost. This happens all too often when collectors suffer from “tunnel vision,” focusing totally on their own interest and ignoring the sometimes more important history of previous owners of the piece. If only this watch could speak for itself—maybe even in Morse code—what a story it could tell!

My thanks and recognition for photos and text to Cindi Verser, museum specialist and resident telegraph historian, at the Mariners’ Museum, “Lincoln in the Telegraph Office: Recollections of the United States Military,” by David Homer Bates, Unitedstatesmilitarytelegraph.org, civilwarsignal.org.

David Mycko is a WorthPoint Worthologist specializing in antique and vintage watches.

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The giant clock at the center of "The Hudsucker Proxy."

Time, horology and the looming presence of an enormous tower clock take center stage in the classic 1994 romantic comedy “The Hudsucker Proxy.” Directed by Joel and Ethan Coen (“Fargo,” “No Country For Old Men”) and co-written by Sam Raimi (“Spiderman”), “The Hudsucker Proxy” is a witty, Capra-esque morality tale about fresh-faced Norville Barnes (Tim Robbins), an everyman hero from Muncie, Ind., who takes a job in the mail room of New York-based Hudsucker Industries.

Hudsucker Industries is flourishing. Profits are stupendous, and stock is at an all-time high. So when their founder, Waring Hudsucker (Charles Durning) leaps to his death from the 44th floor, his board of directors is thrown into panic. Hudsucker has not left a will, and his majority shareholding in the company must therefore soon be offered for sale to the public. But scheming Vice President Sidney J. Mussburger (Paul Newman) has a plan. He’ll install a complete imbecile as chairman and devalue the stock to a level where the rest of the board can acquire controlling interests for themselves.

Barnes is randomly chosen to become company president (by proxy) as part of the insider scam to lower the price of the company stock.

Then, a snoopy reporter (Jennifer Jason Leigh) sees through the flimflam put up by Mussburger and his directors on mahogany row. She weasels her way into the company to find out what’s really going on and appears just in time to witness Norville’s master stroke that has the company floating high on Wall Street overnight . . .

When Mussberger’s manipulations drive Norville to the brink of suicide, it seems the despondent hero will plunge to his death from atop the Hudsucker clock tower at the stroke of midnight on New Year’s Eve.

Norville Barnes in the office of Hudsucker Vice President Sidney J. Mussburger, where the giant clock’s second hand’s is visible as it sweeps across the face.

The movie is full of horological imagery, from the massive clock to having characters symbolically wind and remove their wristwatches.

His only hope is Moses the Clock Man (Bill Cobbs), the keeper and repairman of the mighty Hudsucker Clock—which is much more than just a clock. Moses uses his power over the clock to ward off the forces of darkness—personified by Aloysius, the sinister Hudsucker building sign-painter (Harry Bugin).

The scene of this epic battle? The interior of the Hudsucker clock, which has the power to halt time.

From the recurring imagery of Mussburger’s ever-present wristwatch, to the shadow of the sweeping Hudsucker Clock minute hand as it looms over Mussberger’s office interior, to scenes where several characters symbolically wind and remove their wristwatches before attempting to leap to their doom—this film is a rich tapestry of horological imagery.

The mighty Hudsucker clock, carefully marking time as it represents the machinery of the universe, has a subtle, undeniable power. For moviegoers who like a bit of horology mixed into their romantic comedy, this film is a true classic.

I greatly enjoyed “The Hudsucker Proxy.” The overdrawn characters and the ice-cold schemes to depress the stock seem outrageous at first, but the more you think about it, the more sense they make.

While very delightful and light-hearted for the most part, “The Hudsucker Proxy” is very serious about its issues. It is the way the Coen brothers turn the material in a hysterical satire and every character into a farce that makes this film so enjoyable. Despite the technical flaws—which are surprising given Warner’s status in the DVD industry—I find this disc to be a great release that no lover of intelligent comedies should miss.

Click here to watch a clip from the movie showing the power of the clock and the battle between Moses and Aloysius.

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David Mycko is a WorthPoint Worthologist specializing in antique and vintage watches.

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The Art Deco Hamilton watch carried by John Dillinger when he was gunned down by the FBI outside the Biograph Theater in Chicago.

Dillinger carried a quality watch! The opening bid for this iconic watch was a paltry $41,825.

John Dillinger’s mug shots. On Dec. 12, 2009, Heritage Auctions held a sale of several items Dillinger had on his person when he was shot and killed by FBI agents outside of the Biograph Theater in Chicago on July 22, 1934.

It’s not often that the belongings of someone as infamous as John Dillinger come up for sale. This month Heritage Auctions listed 11 items attributed to Dillinger, including two pocket watches and a wristwatch—one a gift from his father, the other an Art Deco Hamilton actually carried by Dillinger when he was gunned down by the FBI outside the Biograph Theater in Chicago.

Six of the 11 pieces sold during the Dec. 12, 2009 December Signature Arms & Militaria Including Civil War Auction, and Heritage has pushed back the closing gavel on the remaining five, including Dillinger’s Hamilton, to Dec. 28, 2009. Now, these items have fixed prices.

I have to give Mr. Dillinger credit; he carried a quality watch! It’s a shame, though, that it’s originality was altered by a well meaning but misguided watchmaker. I guess blood has a very destructive corrosive effect on the delicate mechanisms of a watch! Heritage Auction’s price for this iconic watch is now a paltry $41,825. Without the provenance, the actual value of this fairly common watch is approximately $150. The Waltham watch that his father gave him has an approximate value of $200. It sold for $4,481. A bargain!

Dillinger’s Hamilton is a 12 size Gentleman’s dress watch with a good quality 17 jewel movement housed in a quality goldfilled hinge back open-face case made by the Keystone Watch Case Co. also located in Lancaster, Pa. While not a watch capable of rail road timekeeping, the watch was in keeping with Hamilton’s standing as a watch company that produced quality at a standard above the rest. Hamilton was very successful at mass producing these “Banker’s Watches” in dozens of different styles, shapes and various case metals, white and yellow gold, platinum, and goldfilled. The “bottom end” was 17 jewels while the top end was 23 jewels and five adjustments. Hamilton’s “bottom end” watches were comparable to other watch companies medium and high end watches.

John Dillinger's nickel-plated Colt Pre-Woodsman .22 caliber automatic pistol, #5436, manufactured 1917, and a wristwatch. Items associated with John Dillinger that Heritage Auction put up for sale on Dec. 12, 2009: 1. Dollar Bill – $14,340 (sold) 2. Wood Gun – $19,120 (sold) 3. Waltham Watch – $4,481 (sold) 4. Hamilton Watch – $41,825 (available unsold) 5. Letter – $41,825 (available unsold) 6. Monogrammed handkerchief – $5,377 (available unsold) 7. Colt pistol and wrist watch – $41,825 (available unsold) 8. Suitcase – $3,585 (sold) 9. Sporting guns – $8,962 (sold) 10. Hunting suit – $29,875 (available unsold) 11. Family documents – $3,346 (sold)

Dillinger’s Waltham is an 18 size goldfilled open-face model ’83. This is a totally different type of watch, much bigger, heavier and older in style compared to the new, modern, slim gentleman’s Hamilton watch. The Waltham was his father’s era type of watch, and gifted by the elder Dillinger, so I’m sure he used it, until he discovered the new more technologically superior Hamilton. Like his guns, Dillinger appreciated the newer technology and embraced it.

Dillinger’s brother’s watch is a Swiss made Waltham wristwatch ca.1967. This watch was a Waltham in name only. Waltham went out of business in 1957. The Waltham name was purchased by a Swiss conglomerate that sold watches under the Waltham name right into the 1970s. I would value this watch in the $75-$150 range and only of mild interest to collectors.

Apparently Dillinger’s embrace of the new technologies of the time did not include a wristwatch; a much more convenient, and equally precision timekeeper as the pocket watch.

For those of a younger age who don’t know the story, FBI agents ambushed John Dillinger outside the Biograph Theater in Chicago, killing him. Dillinger was was betrayed by the “lady in red,” who had told the FBI where they could find Dillinger. The movie playing at the Biograph that night was “Manhattan Melodrama,” starring Myrna Loy, William Powell, and Clark Gable.

Near the end of the film, there is a dramatic scene where Clark Gable’s criminal character, “Blackie,” is being led to the electric chair. He gives advice to another prisoner on the way, “Die the way you lived, all of a sudden,” Blackie said. “Don’t drag it out. Living like that doesn’t mean a thing.” Those were some of the last words Dillinger heard before his death. It seems likely that he himself might well have subscribed to a similar attitude.

All of the items in the auction came from Frances Helen Dillinger, John Dillinger’s half-sister. She says this about some of the items auctioned:

“This is the watch that John H. Dillinger had on him when he was killed in Chicago on July 22, 1934. Along with the watch, the federal men gave my dad an envelope with $7.81, stating that was all the money he had on him. My father received many letters from people that were at the scene of the killing, and stated there was a large amount of money taken off the remains by the FBI. The FBI also gave my father a bullet covered (almost completely red with dried blood, and with many bullet holes) white shirt, gray slacks, shoes, etc., that he had on when killed. The watch box I placed this in, was a Hamilton watch I gave my husband many years ago. I put John’s watch in this box to protect it.”

— Frances H. Dillinger Thompson (Johns’ half-sister) Aug, 24, 1997

Dillinger's Waltham is an 18 size goldfilled open-face model '83

This is a totally different type of watch, much bigger, heavier and older in style compared to the new, modern, slim gentleman's Hamilton watch.

Dennis Lowe, director Arms & Militaria for Heritage Auctions, recounts his visit to Frances Helen Dillinger Thomas:

“My visit to the Dillinger family in Mooresville, Ind. was a genuinely moving experience, most notably sitting across the kitchen table from his now 87-year-old kid sister Frances Helen Dillinger Thompson, and listening to her recount her memories of her older brother. John had in fact named her, Frances and Helen being the names of his two favorite girlfriends and, although he only spent limited time around the family hearth between her birth in 1922 and his death in 1934, John was, according to Frances, “a typical big brother . . . very protective and kind.” That characterization pervades Frances’ descriptions of her brother, still affectionately referred to by the family as “Johnnie.”

The decision to auction these items, which have been in the family’s care for the last 75 years, was clearly a difficult and emotional one. The items were rarely shown to outsiders and the burden of caring for them was an emotional roller coaster for Frances. In a burst of emotion during the 1960s, Frances took the bullet-riddled, blood-soaked shirt John was wearing when he was gunned down to the backyard burn barrel and unceremoniously destroyed it, unable to bear the horror it represented to her any longer. More than one prying reporter or researcher was denied access to the family over the years for committing the faux pas of referring to John as a “killer.” Dillinger was, in fact, never personally charged with the crime of murder, while the family has steadfastly stood their ground in Mooresville, with Frances’ residence just three doors from the original family farm.

These items represent the most tangible touchstones to the life and death of what is probably America’s best known “criminal,” whose legend remains surrounded by an aura of both danger and benevolence.

My thanks and credits to Dennis Lowe and Heritage Auctions for text and pictures.

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David Mycko is a WorthPoint Worthologist specializing in antique and vintage watches.

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The history of the Breitling Navitimer watch is hard to pin down, as company records have been lost, and company lore does not match up with other facts. This all makes the Navitimer an interesting watch to collect.

The story of the first Navitimer is shrouded in mystery and even some controversy. Quite simply, no-one knows for certain the full story, or if they do they have not yet spoken. The records held by Breitling SA in Grenchen, Switzerland are incomplete, so to tell the story of the most famous of all Breitlings, some detective work and even a certain amount of speculation is involved; the foremost world experts on vintage Breitlings do not agree on all the details.

This makes for a very interesting watch to collect, as there are several different variations and some are quite rare if not unique.

What is certain is that following the great success of the Chronomat, the world’s first slide-rule chronograph released in the early 1940s, Breitling made a second slide-rule chronograph—the Navitimer—and released it some time between 1952 (claimed by Breitling) and 1954 (believed by eminent Breitling experts). This watch has the logo of the AOPA—the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association, in Frederick, Maryland—on the dial, and current thinking is that all the first examples of the watch had this logo. Indeed some researchers think the watch was specifically designed for members of AOPA, although others believe Breitling designed the watch and that AOPA then asked for it to show their logo and to be specially made for their members. The true facts are not currently known and may be buried in the records of the AOPA, but many of Breitling’s own early records have been lost. The watches do not have “Breitling” on the dial—simply the AOPA logo—and Breitling had no reference for them. A few of the early Breitling Navitimers have turned up with Breitling’s “B” insignia instead of the AOPA insignia. These were apparently marketed on a small scale in Europe.

An advertisement for the Breitling Navitimer, billed as a “flight computer” and chronograph that meets the requirements set by the AOPA—the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association—of Frederick, Md.

Another ad for the Breitling Navitimer. This time the watch is billed as the AOPA Navitime and comes with a steep price for a watch in the early ’50s: $102.75 for stainless steel, $117.50 for gold-filled and a whopping $294.50 for the watch in 18 karat gold.

In the mid to late ’40s, Breitling started using the Venus 178 in it’s ref. 765 WATCHES, and turned these into their “AVI” watches, in the early ’50s. The AVI was an expensive, waterproof steel chronograph, but it had no slide rule, just a rotating bezel. They continued using this very durable and dependable Swiss-made chronograph movement right into the 1970s in the “Navitimer.”

Sometime in 1949, Breitling changed it’s representative in the United States from White Plains Watch Co. to an exclusive agreement with Wakman Watch Co.

Wakman worked miracles for Breitling, and the U.S. started to dominate sales for Breitling watches.

Breitling lore claims that the company introduced the Navitimer reference 806 in 1952. According the facts apparent, this is simply not true. Why the company makes this claim is also a mystery.

There was no reference number on the original Navitimer. Breitling’s well-guarded production papers do show that the so called AOPA was first produced in 1954 with a Valjoux movement. This is the best argument against Breitling’s 1952 claim, and against the early use of the Venus movement and 806 reference.

The 24-hour dial on the Navitimer/Cosmonaute started production in 1962 at the behest of U.S. astronaut Scot Carpenter and the need for a 24 hour dial in space.

The new version was given a new reference number 809 and the name “Cosmonaute” emblazoned on the dial. The two different watches—the Navitimer and Cosmonaut—have identical 806 style cases, Venus 178 movements and all-black dials. The difference is simply the 24-hour as apposed to 12-hour dials. The watches feature beautiful, big black dials with luminescent numerals, steel sword baton hands (also luminescent), sub-seconds and hour register, with a large steel chrono sweep hand. The highly legible and “readable” dials in any light, they are the perfect watch for the pilot or cosmonaut. Their utilitarian features have translated to a boon for collectors, driving the prices for the rare and unusual versions to “astronomical” heights.

Red Scare Forces Name Change

The Breitling Navitimer “Cosmonaute” with its black dial.

The new version of the new “Navitimer/Cosmonaute” had no sooner hit the marketplace when Wakman made a huge change in the marketing of the watch, re-naming the watch Astro-Timer for the 24-hour watch, and removing the name “Cosmonaute” from the dial and advertising. This was a direct result of the “Red Scare” in the United States and the space race with the Soviet Union, although the word “cosmonaute”(with an e) was French, whereas the Russian “cosmonaut” was spelled without the E. The French “cosmonaute”—the word for Astronaut—is pronounced the same as the Anglicized word for a Russian astronaut “Cosmonaut.”

The word “Cosmonaute” was too easily confused with the Russians, which made it a huge market hurdle to overcome in the U.S., so Wakman totally changed the marketing of the Cosmonaute 809. This is why “Navitimer” has remained on the dial and “Cosmonaute” is seldom seen except on earlier examples and in 1962 advertizing on the watch. A collector simply MUST have a version of each!

Throughout the remaining 60s, Breitling made various changes to it’s very successful Navitimers and Cosmonautes, and although they can be minor, these changes make a huge difference in desirability and price.

Navitimers with all-black dials continued to be made until the early 1960s. There were several variations in dials and bezels up until they were completely superseded by the silvered sub-dials variations. By 1963-64, Navitimers were no longer fitted with all-black dials and the Navitimer ref 806 featured silvered sub-dials from 1959 onwards.

It appears that the all-black dials were gradually replaced from possibly as early as 1959 with dials with silvered sub-dials, and the hands and the bezel were also replaced with later designs from 1960 onwards. A further complication is that hands from the AVI model may have been used on the ref 806 during this period.

Without reliable documentation, it is difficult to be absolutely sure of the facts, but most collectors and experts agree that there was a transition period between 1959 and the early 1960s when Navitimers were released with a mixture of old and new features. However, it is possible that earlier watches have had later dials and/or hands fitted during a service, or even that later watches had earlier parts fitted, so great caution is needed by the serious collector who is concerned with 100-percent originality when purchasing an 806 from this transition period. Breitling did what it had to do to complete inventory and market watches to meet demand, having little regard to future collector’s needs.

A German ad for the Breitling “Cosmonaut” featuring U.S. astronaut Scott Carpenter.

An ad following the scrubbing of the word “Cosmonaut” from the watch because of concerns in the U.S. about the Red Scare and the space race with the Soviet Union.

In 1972 Breitling ceased production of the 806 and 809 Navitimers and Cosmonauts, and nearly ceased production entirely. Some watches were finished and sold under the Breitling name by Ollech & Wajs. Later Ollech & Wajs continued producing these great watches under the “Aviation” name. Ollech & Wajs has since become “Sinn” and no longer makes these aviation watches.

Military Navitimers

Navitimers of various models, both mechanical and quartz, were supplied by Breitling to various air forces around the world. Breitling supplied the Iraqi Air Force at least during the 1970s and 80s, and possibly from the 60s through to the early 90s. These had the Iraqi Air Force wings on the dial and a specially engraved case back.

When the company was sold in 1979, certain rights to assemble and/or manufacture the ref 806 passed to Sinn and O & W. The names “Breitling” and “Navitimer” were sold to Ernest Schneider, who then formed a new Breitling company, Breitling SA.

Breitling is still very much in business today, producing a huge line of gents’ and ladies’ sport model watches, is still a high-quality product of Switzerland, and is still producing commemorative Navitimers, but that’s another story.

My thanks and credit to Bill Shaine, Kurt Broendum—the time world’s acknowledged experts on Navitimers and pioneer on research and writing—and Mark and Theresa Heist of Horological Services.

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David Mycko is a WorthPoint Worthologist specializing in antique and vintage watches.

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A Professional model Omega Speedmaster, with spearpoint second hand. The Speedmaster is one of the most challenging modern watches to collect because the number of changes made to the line over the last 50 years.

I have been a collector and a dealer in watches for more than 35 years. It is said that collecting watches is about the details. While this statement may hold some truth for most collectible watches, they’re nothing compared to the pertinent details of the Omega Speedmaster!

The year 2007 marked the 50th anniversary of the introduction of the renowned and historic Omega Speedmaster. No other chronograph watch has been in continuous production for such a length of time. The vast depth and breadth of the models and variations of Speedmasters produced since the introduction of the first Speedmaster, in 1957, is beyond the scope of a single article. The minute and detailed changes Omega has made to the Speedmaster since its birth 50-odd years ago defines the “drastic” distinctions between otherwise very similar models. Instead, what this article hopes to accomplish is a reasonable overview of the early years and the main variations one would see in vintage Speedmasters today.

When the Speedmaster was first produced in 1957, and on subsequent models, changes were often made quickly, with little or no distinction being noted, and with little to no consideration that a couple of decades down the road collectors would have any interest as to when a hand was changed, or a subtle difference in the shape of a letter on a dial, or why some watches would seem to have attributes of either the previous or successor models.

The managers of the production lines in their offices in the late 1950s and ’60s likely weren’t considering the interest their products would be fetching decades later. Just as dinosaurs lived their lives with little regard for today’s paleontologists, Swiss craftsmen in this epoch did their work without much concern for our quest to make sense of it today. They were more concerned with quality, meeting demand, remaining profitable and viable against the competition. As a result, the further one goes back into history, the more blurred the story gets, making it one of the most challenging watches to collect today. The “bugger” is in the details!

The original Omega Speedmaster, produced in 1957.

The Speedmaster story begins with the CK2915, also known as “The Original 1957 Speedmaster” and sometimes (inaccurately) as the “Broad Arrow.” Pierre Moinat, the creative director of Omega, developed the main idea for the design. Among his goals: a rugged, more waterproof chronograph with a large, easily read dial. The intended market was professionals and enthusiasts in the aviation, automotive and sporting fields, where ease of reading and usage would be of utmost utility. The design was entrusted to Claude Baillad, while Georges Hartmann crafted the first prototype. The CK2915 was produced in three different series from 1957 through 1958, as officially denoted by the caseback designations: CK2915-1, CK2915-2 and CK2915-3.

The CK2915 model Speedmaster, because it was the first produced, is among the most avidly sought, and pricey to obtain. Omega started to transition to a new case reference standard in late 1962. I’ve been studying Omega Speedmasters for many years, and have yet to find any books or documents that lay out the subtle distinctions between these models. Some Speedmasters were produced with a unique chronograph second hand with a “lollipop” luminous circle located at the end of the hand. These “Lollipop Speedmasters” are very uncommon and fetch high prices when listed for sale. Later Speedmasters adopted a different chronograph seconds hand, which would be used for several years. This new hand had a spearpoint luminous shape, as well as a “spearpoint” counterbalance, as opposed to the original needle shaped hand. Because the early Speedmasters have the unique Dauphine hands, these watches attract more interest and hence higher prices than later Speedmasters.

This series of watches also has the distinction of being the model of Speedmaster that Wally Schirra wore during his Sigma 7 Mercury mission, making it the first Speedmaster to reach orbit. Later on, NASA would purchase Speedmasters for evaluation and testing, and as a result of those tests, made the Speedmaster the standard-issue Astronaut wristwatch.

Rare model

Early 1960s German advertisement.

Next up is the 105.002. By now, the Speedmaster had moved away from many of the features that made the early Speedmasters unique and unlike the later models. Long gone were the Balane hands, silver bezel, the smaller crown and distinctive caseback marking of those early editions. Most of these changes were made to improve the usability of the Speedmaster: The earlier Balane hands covered up far too much of the dial and often the subdials of the chronograph, diluting the watch’s ability to be used for one of it’s intended functions.

The silver bezel was discarded because pilots and drivers were frequently in bright, sunny conditions and the chance the bezel could reflect the sun’s blinding glare into the wearer’s eyes was very real. Balane hands, as well as newly adopted white painted stick hands, were both produced for this model. The dauphine hands, which were unpainted save for the Tritium luminous inserts, were often difficult to read in certain lighting conditions. So Omega switched to white stick hand. The 105.002 was only in production for a few short months in 1962 and possibly 1963 before Omega formalized the change to white stick hands for the 105.003 model. So this transition model was not produced in high numbers, is exceedingly rare, and hence commands a good price when offered.

Most of the unique differences between the original Speedmaster and the modern Speedmaster had been evolved out of the Speedmaster line after 1963. The 105.003 incorporates most of these changes, though a few differences remain. The “quiet” Speedmaster, as the 105.003 is often called, has the most plain and elegant appearance when compared to models produced prior or after its production.

After Schirra and Gordon Cooper wore the Speedmaster on their Mercury missions (Cooper wore both a Speedmaster and a Bulova Accutron Astronaut), NASA decided that the utility of having its astronauts equipped with a standardized wrist chronograph was beneficial. It began testing candidate chronographs. During the break between Mercury and Gemini, NASA tested chronographs for astronaut use. The eventual winner of the testing was the Speedmaster.

The Omega community has not been able to assemble a full list of the chronographs obtained by NASA, but a partial list has been assembled by Omega and is in collectors’ hands. A few months after Ed White’s Gemini IV spacewalk, NASA photos of the EVA were published in National Geographic. Omega has said that this was the first indication they had that NASA had been issuing the Speedmaster to astronauts. To signify this, Omega decided to rename the model the Omega Speedmaster Professional. Soon, in the fall of 1965, Speedmasters started being produced with dials bearing “PROFESSIONAL” in all caps below the script “Speedmaster” on the dial.

To the Moon

The watch worn to the moon.

Over the years there has been much discussion and even debate in the Omega collecting community as to which model Speedmasters actually made it to the moon. The answer is an open one. We can confirm that at least three different Speedmaster case references made it to the moon (along with a Waltham Chronograph). While we can exclude any models made after 1972, we can’t confirm or repudiate other models made before then.

In summation, the Omega Speedmaster is probably the most challenging and confounding wrist watch to collect. On the one hand, since Omega produced many thousands of these watches, they are not hard to find. On the other hand, so many collectors have “taken up the gauntlet” that demand has exceeded supply. Not to mention the near impossible task of acquiring one of each variation. One thing is very clear: few of the other collectible watches in the marketplace today has garnered such interest, historic importance, or consistently retained it’s value.

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My thanks for photographs and Omega info to the late Chuck Maddox, a self proclaimed Omegamaniac.

David Mycko is a WorthPoint Worthologist specializing in antique and vintage watches.

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Rolex "Sea Dweller"

During the late 1960s, in collaboration with COMEX—a France-based professional dive company—Rolex developed its “Submariner” model to meet the most stringent technical and professional demands of the professional deep-sea diver. In the process, Rolex eventually produced a very different watch from the Submariner and named it the “Sea Dweller,” which is still in production today.

COMEX divers not only needed solutions for water resistance at extreme depth, they also faced the danger of explosive decompression caused by helium penetrating the interior of the watch (divers breathed the mixture of oxygen and helium within their hyperbaric chamber after lengthy deep sea dives). To maintain a pressure identical to that underwater, the mixture in the hyperbaric chambers remained the same during the different phases of work and rest periods. This system was designed to eliminate the need to depressurize the chamber after each phase of work.

Before returning to free air, and depending on the depth attained, a period of depressurization was necessary to equalize the internal and external tension of the human organism. Though the process of depressurization is slow, the gas that accumulated inside the watch, having no means to escape fast enough, exploded the crystal off the watch, thereby risking injury to those inside the chamber and severely damaging an expensive watch.

Rolex collaborated with COMEX to develop a solution by installing a one-way pressure escape valve on the side of the watch case, at the nine o’clock position. The one-way valve will begin to equalize the pressure inside the watch when the difference between the exterior and interior of the watch exceeded 2.5 kg. per sq. cm.

The Helium Gas Escape Valve (HEV) was featured and tested on the Single Red and Double Red Patent Pending Submariner Sea-Dwellers, circa 1967-1969. Once the testing was successfully completed and Patent of the HEV approved, COMEX placed a special order with Rolex for the supply of a number of dive watches featuring the HEV and case with either ref. 5513 or 5514. This would be delivered to COMEX only and not provided for general sale.

The development and delivery of this unique reference evolved from a modified ref. 5513 to the final ref. 5514 with big case back numbers, circa 1975. The first COMEX deliveries were the Submariner ref. 5513, which can be found in a number of iterations: 1- The earliest ref. 5513 COMEX watches that have surfaced circa 1969/70 have non-HEV cases, non-logo dials and case backs which are engraved ‘Crown-Rolex-Comex.’

The serial number engraved inside the case back matches the serial number between the lugs at 6 o’clock. 2- The ref. 5513 COMEX watches with HEV (an improved version introduced post Patent approval) that followed (circa 1972) were mostly produced with a small or medium sized issue number engraved on the case back and a plain matt non-logo dial.

Approximately one third of the original issued ref. 5513 COMEX watches had a matt logo dial and very few have survived, thus making the ref. 5513 with the original COMEX logo dial configuration one of the rarest COMEX watches to exist (estimates have been made in the region of 50-60 watches in total).

The initial batch of ref. 5514 with HEV can be found with small & medium case back numbers (and generally non COMEX logo dials) and were delivered alongside the final batch of the ref. 5513 COMEX watches in 1972. Most deliveries from 1974 to 1977 of the COMEX “Submariner” with HEV only had the unique model ref. 5514 and not the ref. 5513. The model ref. 5514 was never sold to the public. The ref. 5514 from these batches featured two different case back styles with four variations of small, medium and large issue numbers. The original dials were still the matt variety, but the majority now featured the COMEX logo. In total the ref. 5514 was actually produced in higher numbers (approximately 600 to 700) than many of the other COMEX models, however, a far lower number have survived in their original configuration. The ref. 5514 remains a key watch to collectors purely because of the unique COMEX only reference number.

Comex Sea Dweller Rolex’s are highly desirable collector and investment watches. They fetch six-figure prices when offered for sale and are very hard to find in today’s watch market. Many watch manufacturers produce professional dive watches, but only the Rolex Sea Dweller has a helium escape valve. The variations of the Sea Dweller through its development can make a huge difference in the desirability and price of an individual watch.

David Mycko is a WorthPoint Worthologist specializing in antique and vintage watches.

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The Brimfield Antiques and Collectibles Show, and surrounding independent events, as seen from the air.

I normally write an article on shows I attend after the event, when I have returned home to my trusty/rusty/crusty computer with my prizes and impressions. Now, though, I thought I’d give folks a “head’s up” on the Brimfield (Mass.) Antiques and Collectibles Show so they could make plans to attend.

There are two schools of thought concerning the three annual Brims, as they are known to ardent attendees. Most argue that the May show is the best pickings, others swear by September event, and almost everyone says it’s too hot in July! Yours truly has attended all three religiously for the last 30 odd years, and my opinion is: May is best, September is always good, and July is hot, hot, hot! Regardless, any antiquer worth his or her salt will be happy no matter which event they attend.

The September Brimfield Show is the third and final shows of the year and is set for Sept. 8-13, but the official opening dates are always pre-empted by several independent markets and numerous yard sales up and down Rt. 20 (The Old Boston Post Road).

Among the independent venues are:

• Marrier’s Palmer Flea Market: This one opens at daybreak on Sept. 5and will run through Sept. 12. Palmer is just a few miles west of Brimfield on Rt.20, and is not your ordinary flea market. Die-hard and local antique dealers all get the jump on the official Brimfield openings at Marrier’s. Small compared to Brim, the pickings are generally pretty good here. Beautiful central Massachusetts country setting, good old-tyle “on the ground” country flea market.

• The Barn, The Apple Barn, Hopkins, Francesco’s, and Mid-way have various and unscheduled starts. The un-official opening is daybreak Monday, Sept. 7, and all venues are located on the west end of Brimfield, with Hopkins being the newest (its inaugural event was last year). All are definitely good places to shop, especially Hopkins. The Barn is directly across the highway from Francesco’s Italian Restaurant and specializes in industrial and architectural artifacts (tons of it!).

The real pandemonium begins on Tuesday (Sept. 8) with all of the Brimfield sites officially opening at 6 a.m. and unofficially at daybreak.

• Mahogany Ridge (east end across from Church): 100 dealers, cameras, smalls, furniture;
• Dianne Sturtevant’s: 400 dealer set-ups, excellent pickings, paintings, jewelry, toys and furniture;
• Shelton’s: more than 300 set-ups, great Indian jewelry, silver, paintings, Chinese imports and furniture picking;
• Crystal Brook: 50 set-ups, quality jewelry and silver;
• Quaker Acres: 400 set-ups, tons of country and primitives;
• Rt. 20 Motel: general smalls;
• Central Park: 150 set-ups, furniture, some jewelry, smalls;
• The Meadows: more than 300 set-ups, smalls, furniture, silver, reproductions, etc.;
• Green Acres: 150 dealers, quality furniture, smalls, etc.;
• Dealer’s Choice*: 400 dealers, opening at 11 a.m.;
• Brimfield Acres North*: 300 odd dealers and a running indoor postcard show, opening at 1 p.m.

*These two shows are fenced in with admission charge and are “one day shooters,” so you have only a few hours to make a decision.

Wednesday, Sept. 9 sees more openings.

• The Motel: opens at 6 a.m., fenced-in with admission, features some 300 odd dealers, silver, jewelry, furniture, paintings, smalls, etc.;
• Heart-O-The Mart: opens at 9 a.m. with more than 500 dealers, fenced-in with admission, furniture, jewelry, silver, lamps, smalls, etc.;
• Hertan’s: opens at noon at the strike of a bell with no fences or admission and is hands down the “Wild West” of all the openings, featuring primitives, smalls, furniture, textiles, jewelry.

NOTE: H.O.T.M. and The Motel suffer total abandonment at noon when Hertan’s opens! Hertan’s is truly an amazing sight to behold!

Thursday, Sept. 10 features the big opening.

• May’s Field: This is considered THE premier show opening of Brim, with a fully fenced-in field with admission that opens at a civilized 9 a.m. The 500-some-odd dealers in May’s are not allowed to set up until the opening. No tents, no tables, no unloading, no sales until the official opening. This gives everyone—dealer and collector alike—an even playing field. May’s is noted for quality antiques and keeps a strict quality code of NO repro’s or new merchandise. Paintings, bronzes, furniture, jewelry, watches, militaria, smalls, etc. The “find of the century” was discovered at May’s Field last May, when a lucky patron found a painting by John Singer Sargent and purchased it for a very modest sum.

Friday, Sept. 11 is when J. & J. Field opens

• J.& J.’s Field: This was considered THE best field, but seems to be on the decline, 300 odd dealers, opens at 8 a.m. with admission. One of the best advertised fields in Brim AND the site of the original Gordon Reid’s famous Auction Acres, established in 1958. Furniture, primitives, smalls, jewelry, etc.

Saturday and Sunday, Sept. 12 & 13, are chaotic.

• Brimfield Flea Market: Saturday and Sunday are considered the “public days,” as throngs of hunters—locals and those who travel from far and wide—come for a taste of Brimfield. They bring with them bumper-to-bumper traffic, children and dogs, all searching for another John Singer Sargent painting and any other national treasures that might be lingering in some itinerant junk dealer’s booth.

Dealers attending the Brims range from tented showrooms . . .

Brimfield is located midway between Springfield and the sleepy antique town of Sturbridge on Rt. 20, approx. 65 miles west of Boston. Old Sturbridge Village is a must-see place for antiquing aficionados and all lovers of antiques and American history. Old Sturbridge Village is an entire settlement of 18th-century homes, shops and buildings filled with genuine period furnishings. An outdoor/indoor museum devoted to the American way of life during the 1700s boasts several actual national treasures and has a fine collection of Simon Willard’s Clocks.

Sturbridge is also the home to some of the finest dining and accommodations in the entire area; The Public House, The Ox Head Tavern and the Whistling Swan just to mention a couple. A short drive will bring you to one of Massachusetts’s finest dining experiences, The Salem Cross Inn.

. . . to those selling from the back of their cars.

The Brimfield Antiques show is not just another antique show, and certainly not a flea market. It is an event devoted to antiques and art! It is a gathering of thousands of antique dealers, collectors, and the curious from across the country and the globe! The Japanese come for the vintage clothing, the Italians for the costume jewelry, the Germans for the paintings, bronzes and watches. The English and the French come for who knows what? The range of antiques and collectibles spans the gamut, with something for everyone! If you can’t find it here, you ain’t gonna find it! Quality and rarity range from plastic to platinum, and every year something fantastic turns up! And no less than three books have been published about Brim; “Brimfield,” by A. Dounoucos, “Brimfield Rush,” by Wyss, and “Brimfield: A Novel,” by M. Fortuna.

The History of the Brims

Brimfield the market got its initial start from Gordon Reid, a local dairy farmer, who began hosting auctions out of his large Red Barn, located in the J. & J. Field (his daughters are Judy and Jill, proprietor’s of J. & J.’s. As his annual auction grew in popularity, Gordon noticed dealers displaying and selling their wares from the back of their trucks in the parking area. Soon the ever-entrepreneurial Reid began to rent spaces devoted to displaying and selling whatever the dealers brought and the flea market was born!

The market grew in popularity and frequency, from once a year to twice yearly. Reid’s famous (locally, anyway) auction and flea markets grew in popularity, but really took off in the 1970s, and several local property owners along Rt. 20 started renting space to dealers coming to the rapidly growing event, that, by now, had grown to three times a year during the summer. By the mid-80s the events were spanning more than a mile of Rt. 20 and running close to two weeks.

Local residents in this normally sleepy burg were up in arms—what with the traffic and crowds of people invading their little town and all. Town fathers soon passed legislation limiting the duration and times of each promoter’s field, and all is well now with antiquers and locals. After four decades, the once rough-and-tumble event has transformed itself from a local auction/flea market to a major antique show/event known the world over. Nearly all the fields provide showers, restrooms, electricity and food courts for those who “rough it on the field.”

But for those who prefer a more civilized excursion, there are three major airports within a 60-mile radius, and the major cities of Hartford (45 miles) and Springfield (25 miles) are nearby with all the comforts one could need. Not to mention several quaint local B&B’s and motels up and down Rt. 20.

Web sites devoted the Brimfield Antiques Event are linked here, here and here.

Pictures of the Brimfield Show compliments of the BrimfieldExchange.com and Tom O’Hara

David Mycko is a WorthPoint Worthologist specializing in antique and vintage watches.

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A Waltham watch made for the Lehigh Valley Railroad with the railraod company logo.

The back of the Waltham Lehigh Valley R.R. watch shows etailed engraving.

Engravings on the inside of the Waltham Lehigh Valley Railroad watch.

1. Watches produced for a particular railroad line:

Documented examples exist for: Pennsylvania R.R., Lehigh Valley R.R., Santa Fe Route R.R., Burlington Route R.R., Boston & Maine R.R., B & O, Chesapeake & Ohio, Imperial Canada, Dominion Railways, D. & R.G.(Denver and Rio Grand), Canadian Railway time service, Canadian Pacific, Central Truck R.R., Southern R.R., North Western R.R., Erie R.R., Rock Island R.R., Seaboard R.R., L. & N. R.R., Reading R.R., Wabash R.R., Southern pacific, Olympian Hiawatha R.R., and the Union Pacific R.R.

I am sure I have missed more than a few here, as a watch was often a railroad man’s most prized possession, and there were literally hundreds of railroad companies established over the decades. These railroad company-marked watches are the rarest and hardest to find. Some are very colorful, with a company logo emblazoned on the dial, others have a detailed color picture of a locomotive, while the rest may simply have the name of the company. To make a complete and desirable package, the movement will also be marked, and in some cases, the pocket watch case itself.

Note: These watches were “working men’s” watches and were typically housed in affordable nickel or gold-filled cases, rarely in solid gold or silver.

A S.N. Clarkson inspector's watch made by the Illinois Watch Co.

The Illinois Watch Co.'s S.N. Clarkson watch with its back removed.

A deatil of the engraving on a S.N. Clarkson inspector's watch.

2. Watches marked with a railroad inspector’s name or business:

Web C. Ball, S.N.Clarkson, J.Gansl, Wilson Bros., Davis & Hawley, George Conklin, Wathier’s, Walter & Hafner’s Katey, Von Guten Bros., Voorhee’s, W&B, L.H. Wallace, J.S. Townsend, E.L. Table, Thron Bros., H.S. Tanner, Tasco, L.A. Sutton, E.E. Stratton, Stevens Co., Stief & Co., Stebbins, Stecher, Sears Robuck & Co., Shaffer Bros., O.L. Roskenrans, Rovelstad Bros., Rochat’s Standard, Roberts Special, Potter & Gray, Pfaeffle, , Paxton’s Special, Peck, W.B. Parrazina, Morrow’s Special, Moses & Co., Mermod & Jacard, Fred McIntyre, Lambert bros, Kirkam’s, Keck’s Special, D.C. Jacard, A.K. Jobe, W. Kewmper, R.W. Kerns, H.M. Jackobson, F.J. Hooper, W.J. Hinman, J.Q. Hatch & Co., R.H. Harris & Co., H. Haas & Co., Jay Gould the R.R. King, C.E. Delong, Brown & Grant, Borrenson R.R. Standard, Benedict Bros., Barnard Bros., Anderson Bros., and more.

This is just a partial list of the many thousands of railroad inspectors watches from across the United States and Canada where the “roads” were organized and required regular watch inspections. These watch inspectors were almost always watchmakers and jewelers with local and interstate shops and businesses where repairs and adjustments to railroad employee’s watches could be made. This employment by the railroad company to inspect watches was a lucrative opportunity for the inspectors to sell watches, too. Most, if not all, the watch manufacturers would custom-engrave the watch inspector’s name on the dial and movement with a minimum order. This is still a “sleeper area” for the collector as these watch inspectors were a direct link with the railroads and many of the names remain indistinguishable from the regular jewelry trade. Names like Web C. Ball, A.N. Anderson, Mermod & Jacard, and Jay Gould are well known, and watches with their names on them are quickly recognized by experienced collectors and highly prized even in the low-jeweled category. Top flight watches in the 21- to 26-jewel category will fetch in the four- to five-figure sums. This is a very interesting area to collect as the collector will be able to personalize when the inspector was in his city, and in some cases the business may still exist.

A close-up of the Illinois Railroader face.

The relatively plain back of the Illinois Railroader.

The engraving inside the Illinois Railroader.

3. Watches marked or named by the watch company itself:

Railroad King, Railroad Queen, Railroad Dispatcher, Railway special, North American Railway, Railway, New Railway, Railway Chronometer, Illinois Central, Interstate Chronometer, Inspector’s Standard, Standard Time, Interurban Special, Inspector’s special, King special, King Edward, A. Lincoln, Lightning Express, Railway standard, Maiden Lane, N.J.R.R. & T. Co., Non Magnetic, Northwestern Time, Official Standard, Official Railroad Watch, Pacific Watch, Penna. Rail Road, Pennsylvania Special, Wm. Penn, Polaris, The President, Railroad Employee’s Special, Railroad Grade, Railroad Construction, Rail Roader, Railroad Monarch, Railroad Official, Railroad Regulator, Railroad Reliance, Railroad Service, Railroad Watch, Railroad Time, Railway Timer, R.W.K Special, Santa Fe Special, Burlington Special, Santa Fe Route, Railroad Magnet, Special Railway, Special Time King, Special Railway Time standard, Train Dispatcher, Train Dispatcher Special, Trainman’s Special, Vanguard, Veritas, Waltham Standard, Waltham Railroad Standard, etc.

Watch Companies came up with these names and many more, in addition to their standard model names to help promote the sales of their watches and to signify the high quality of their watch over their competitors. Additionally, the name also gave the watch “railroad acceptability.” This marketing ploy is a boon to today’s collector, and the game to collect one of each is a real challenge. Some of these names are fairly common, such as Railway Special (Hamilton) and Railway (Hampden), but others are downright rare and fetch high prices in today’s collector markets. Also, what manufacturers’ serial number lists that still exist do not (or seldom) list how many of these named watches were produced; the lists are simply by grade.

4. Watches produced specially for the Brotherhoods:

Brotherhood of Locomotive Engineers, Brotherhood of Railroad Trainmen, Brotherhood of Locomotive Firemen, Brotherhood of Locomotive Firemen and Enginemen, the Order of Railway Conductors, and the Order of Railroad Telegraphers.

These “brotherhood” watches were exclusively produced by Web C. Ball, although the occasional Rockford will turn up. They are the epitome of the “railroad watch” and the top of the heap for collectors. The brotherhood emblem will be in the center of the dial just under 12, with the letters superimposed in Victorian/Gothic fashion, sometimes in color. The watch movements themselves will also be marked similarly. Quite often the cases housing these wonderful watches will also have the brotherhood initials emblazoned on the back cover. Watch fobs also were produced with brotherhood markings, quite often in multi-colored gold and beautifully engraved. This author has had several watches in the past that made a complete package: Brotherhood watch, chain & fob, and timing booklet with the owner’s name. This is a fairly rare occurrence and very desirable by diehard railroad watch collectors.

In summation, I realize that these lists of names make for boring and repetitious reading, but maybe someone we see this article and recognize or assimilate a name and become interested enough to look around and discover what would appear to be an ordinary looking watch with an odd name. Good luck!

My thanks to Roy Ehrardt and Bill Meggers for all their hard work in listing these inspector’s names and watch company grade names. I am proud to say that both of these fine gentlemen were my friends and I contributed what I could to help with their research. They have both since passed away but their devotion and work will endure for many years to come.

David Mycko is a WorthPoint Worthologist specializing in antique and vintage watches.

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One of the tensts set up at last weekend's Madison-Bouckville Outdoor Antiques Show in upstate New York.

The headlines read: “Mid-Summer Blues Amidst a Depressed Marketplace!” I see it every day in the newspaper and on CNN, but someone forgot to tell the people in this beautiful upstate New York hamlet of Bouckville.

Every year for the last 17 years, this sleepy little town of Bouckville host the Madison-Bouckville Outdoor Antiques Show, a great outdoor is held in the where hundreds of antique dealers and flea market vendors flock to display their wares and recent finds in open fields that had until just recently been occupied by corn, barley, and cows. They are closely followed by hordes of antique fans and aficionados, eager for the find of a lifetime and the thrill of the hunt!

There is a lot of glass to be found at this event just about every year.

Set against the background of some of New York’s most majestic hills and beautiful farm country, the dealers migrate from across the country to erect their tents and offer their antique treasures to the masses. They know that antique collectors come from across this wide country seeking objects of their desire, usually with success. This year’s event, held Aug. 14-16, was a mixed bag of high-quality antiques and just plain junk! The economy’s precarious situation (tanked!) was evident in the myriad displays of stuff.

Dealers and collectors alike were complaining of the meager offerings and slim pickings, but they are a contentious lot and complaints are just a ploy to keep their finds a secret. There were some empty spaces that were in the recent years past occupied by venders, but the turnout was nonetheless large and remarkable. I found plowing through the fields of merchandise difficult but productive as the collectible watch business is alive and well.

The “main event” opens for load-in on Thursday, while Friday is dealer day (a steep $40 admission), and general admission begins on Saturday and runs through Sunday. For $7 and free parking, the Madison-Bouckville Outdoor Antiques Show proclaims “1,000 dealers,” and even if there is not that number officially, there’s still a lot to look over.

In addition, several local enterprising property owners up and down Rt. 20 rent spaces to dealers extending, a the three-day show to a week long event. Bono’s, Indian Openings, Hinneman’s, and Quaker Acres are but a few of the dozen or so “sub shows” where hundreds of “pickers” come a week ahead of the main event to scour the fields in search of that elusive bargain.

Sometimes it took some careful hunting, but there were treasured to be found.

Many, including yours truly, camp out on the back fields in tents, campers and the back seat. There are motels and an Indian casino within a 20 mile radius, and Syracuse and Utica are an equidistant 45-odd miles in either direction for those that need a city. The area is steeped in history; the Chittenango Canal, circa 1855, the Landmark Inn, circa 1790, Colgate University, established 1819, and the Hotel Solsville, est. 1939. The Landmark Inn has the best in fine dining and wines in addition to accommodations, while Hotel Solsville, just up the road, has the best burger and cold beer anywhere! I have no idea what’s available at the casino, but I hear it’s expensive. Local motels charge a very reasonable $40 to $90, depending on availability. The quaint historic village of Casanovia, established 1793, about 25 miles east has reasonable accommodations, fine dining, antique shops, and a fabulous lake.

The weather is always a major factor at an outdoor event of this nature, and Madison-Bouckville is no exception. This year the gods were kind, as there was plenty of sunshine. In years past, the rain came and turned these old cornfields into a gooey brown quagmire. The furrows of mud created by cars and trucks looked like huge servings of chocolate mousse sprinkled with little red, yellow and blue compact cars hopelessly stuck in the mud. The main event field has a fleet of antique farm tractors used during the show for deliveries and pulling out mud-stuck vehicles, so, no worries!

The turnout this year, all-in-all, was very good, as both dealer and collector alike hit the field with gusto! There was the typical lack of high-end merchandise, but no shortage of collectibles from A to Z. No fabulous paintings, bronzes, or National treasures turned up, but the few pieces of Stickley offered sold very quickly. Antique furniture and glass are popular items here, along with primitives and rugs. Utica N.Y. , the home of tools and tool-making Corning company—the home of glass—and Hamilton, the home of Colgate U are nearby and have historically contributed a wealth of product and education to this area. The Chittenango Canal and the Erie Canal, along with the railroads later, brought wealth and prosperity to this region during America’s Industrial Revolution. This state’s capitol of Albany is a mere 65 odd miles away.

It’s too late for this year’s event, but for those who know not to miss it next year, here’s the Web site. And for those that need to know more, click here. There is also a spring event; find your info and directions here.

David Mycko is a WorthPoint Worthologist specializing in antique and vintage watches.

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An example of an 1896 Exposition watch made by Georges Frederic Roskopf .

I am telling the story of Georges Fredric Roskopf not only because it is a fascinating history, but to make a point to watch collectors and enthusiasts: collections of watches don’t necessarily have to be high grade, bejeweled, gold, or “high falutin’” to be interesting and collectible. A collection of Roskopf and Roskopf-type watches can be very interesting and historically important, as well as a relatively “cheap and easy” way to get into the hobby.

Many thousands of Roskopf style watches were made, and a romp through eBay will turn up several good examples. No serious watch collection should be without an original number one model Roskopf.

So what makes Roskopf interesting? In the 1860s, all watches were wound with a key. But Roskopf’s watches were wound with a crown—also known as stem-wound. It was the beginning of keyless winding.

Stem wind or keyless winding systems in watches was considered “high tech” at this time, and Roskopf’s watch was “avant guard” and ahead of it’s time. The story that follows it that of the brilliant inventor and innovator—Georges Fredric Roskopf—and his watch.

Roskopf wasn’t the first watchmaker to utilize stem-winding mechanisms in watches, but his system was simple, robust, cheaply produced, and very successful. Roskopf’s watches used the basic winding system invented by Jean Adrian Philippe in 1842. There were some earlier, unsuccessful prototypes and consequent variations of winding systems for watches. Philippe’s was so successful that Count Von Patek of the prestigious house of Patek made him a partner in the firm, but that’s another story.

Roskopf made a wise decision choosing Philippe’s system, and coupled with his own patented inventions, made his watch unique, affordable, and successful. His watch subsequently inspired a whole new area of the watch industry in Switzerland and some decades later in the United States.

Georges Frederic Roskopf was born in March of 1813 at Niderwiller, then part of the Grand Duchy of Baden, Germany. Today, the Niderwiller village is situated in the French province Alsace, bordering Switzerland and Germany.

Becoming a Watch Maker

In 1829, at the age of 16, George travelled to La Chaux de Fonds, Switzerland, where he undertook a three-year apprenticeship as a sales clerk with Mairet & Sandoz, a firm selling hardware and watchmaker’s supplies. This was his introduction to the watch making industry.

In 1834, he apprenticed as a watchmaker in La Chaux de Fonds, where he stayed for only a year before quitting apprenticeship to marriy Francoise Lorimier, a well-off widow 17 years his senior. She had two children from her previous marriage.

In 1835, financed by his wife, he set up his own watchmaker business on 18 Leopold-Robert Street. This firm worked as “etablisseur“—a company that buys watch components and assembles them. A son, Fritz Edouard, was born the same year.

Georges Fredric Roskopf

Roskopf sold his business in 1850 because it wasn’t profitable, moving to become the joint manager of the La Chaux de Fonds branch of Guttmann Brothers of Warburg, Germany. This company assembled “English style” watches and marketed them to Belgium and the USA.

In 1855 Roskopf set up another business together with his son, Fritz Edouard and Henry Gindraux, as ROSKOPF, GINDRAUX & Co. Roskopf was an idealist who dreamed of making good-quality, low-cost watches for the working man. After two years, his son left him to open his own watch business and Gindraux left to become the director of a watch making school.

In 1860 Roskopf began to design a watch that could be sold for 20 Swiss francs and still be of good quality, simple and solid. He called this watch “montre proletaire“—the laborer’s watch. Roskopf’s workingman’s watch was with met indifference and hostility among the watchmakers of the area, who were still working as a home industry and did not wish to make a watch suitable for mass production. In 1866 Roskopf ordered two boxes of ebauches (raw watch movements) from Emile Roulet and asked Gustave Rosselet to make escapements. Both refused to take his orders.

In 1867 Roskopf finally succeeded in producing his watch. The Malleray Watch Co. supplied the ebauches and cases, while other necessary parts came from sundry other makers. The watches themselves were assembled in France, by M. Chatelain. The original order to Malleray was 2,000 watches. By the end of 1867 he was in business and three years later he had expanded orders tenfold, ordering 20,000 ebauches for production.

Roskopf's first watch looked like any other of the time on the outside but ...

... on the inside, the works were crudely fashioned, which kept the price down.

Roskopf’s first choice for case material was brass, but he finally chose German Silver, an alloy of copper, zinc and nickel. The first model had a hinged bezel, facilitating the setting of the hands. The hands of the Roskopf watch were set to time by the use of the fingertip, and were of heavy, robust construction. The watch met Roskopf’s specifications: they were simple, effective and cheaply produced.

Through the influence of the famous house of Breguet in Paris, Roskopf was able to present his watch at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1867. This was a precipitous move on Roskopf’s part; there were 152 Swiss competitors present, each bringing their best watches and vying for prizes. The winners would be recognized worldwide, and demand for their product would likely increase dramatically. Roskopf’s entry was a watch with a simple, unrefined mechanism housed in a cheap German silver Case. His competitors entered high-quality refined and complicated watches housed in gold, or at the very least, and silver. The judges awarded four gold, six silver and 15 bronze medals. To the complete surprise to everyone, included Roskopf, the judges awarded Roskopf a bronze medal.

From then on, even the House of Breguet began sending him orders. The distinguished house of Borel & Courvoisier also placed ordered with Roskopf, and other orders for his watches poured in from everywhere. The Roskopf watch was an immediate success. In 1869 the Roskopf watch was exhibited at the Amsterdam Exhibition and won a silver medal.

In 1870 G.F. Roskopf introduced a second design with a hand-setting mechanism, but had also reduced the number of working parts further, simplified the escapement fitting, and introduced an improved winding system. This watch, which cost 25 Swiss francs, was crown-wound and the hands were set via a button on the side of the case. He utilized Adrien Philippe’s (Patek, Philippe) free mainspring barrel patent, for which he paid a royalty to Philippe on each watch. This ingenious mainspring patent virtually eliminated mainspring breakage.

The face of a Georges Frederic Roskopf watch.

Not Just for the Working Man

Roskopf’s very affordable watch was intended for the working man, but aristocrats and army officers were actually his first customers. In February 1867 Roskopf hired Charles Léon Schmid, to sell the monthly output of 500-600 watches. This very enterprising young man came up with the brilliant idea to present the watch to officers of different European armies and railroads. Orders came rolling in and demand overcame production.

The idea of the Roskopf-type watch had become very popular in Switzerland and a number of Swiss companies began making Roskopf copies, labeled “System Roskopf,” “Gre. Roskopf” or labeled “Rosskopf” (with two s’s) to bypass Roskopf’s registered trade mark. Watches labeled A. Rosskopf, E. Rosskopf, G. Rosskopf, H. Rosskopf (from Hollstein, Switzerland), J. Rosskopf, and W. Rosskopf (trade mark of Vittori & Cie, La Chaux de Fonds) began popping up all over Europe. In order to be cheap, these watches were all machine-manufactured and badly made. Although these watches were pin-lever watches, they didn’t have Roskopf’s patented platform-mounted escapement.

Here you can see the difference in the worked between the first and second generation of the Roskopf watch.

In 1872, after the passing of his wife, Roskopf sold the house in La Chaux de Fonds, and turned over his business to Charles Léon Schmid and the brothers C. and E. Wille, his wife’s grandsons. Although the Wille brothers were only his step grandsons, Roskopf felt he had an obligation to repay his wife’s generous investment in his idea and company. The new company was named Wille Freres. This was the measure of integrity of Georges Fredric Roskopf.

The newly founded company went on to produce an estimated 20 million watches! In 1873 Roskopf remarried a school teacher 24 years younger than himself and they lived for a short time in Cernier, where Roskopf acquired Swiss citizenship in 1874. Later they moved to Berne, where Roskopf died on April 14, 1889. According to Liliane Roskopf, his great-granddaughter, he was an embittered, wounded man who fled from La Chaux de Fonds, away from the watch making business. It was a sad end to a brilliant and capable man of grit and determination.

In the five-year span he invented and produced the “Roskopf watch,” the ultimate production was less than 100,000 watches.

Following Roskopf’s death in 1889, a number of firms claimed to be his “true successor.” But Wille Freres alone actually had the rights to the Roskopf label. They had been using the Roskopf trade mark for years—with his consent—before G. F. Roskopfs death.

A patent office was not established in Switzerland until 1888. Hence, Roskopf was unable to patent his inventions in Switzerland, although he did manage to patent his inventions in France, Belgium and the United State. The inability to protect his inventions in Switzerland opened the door to charlatans, and he was copied many times over. Roskopf held four patents for watch mechanisms in France, Belgium, and the U.S., and later some 11 Swiss patents were taken out for Roskopf watch mechanisms by his descendants and business associates.

In 1890, the Cortbert Watch Co. manufactured high-quality “Roskopf watches” with jeweled pivots and gold-plated movements. They were signed “Cortebert,” not Rosskopf.

Roskopf’s watches and ideas inspired D.A. Buck in the U.S. to produce a good, cheap, easily manufactured pocket watch—the “Dollar Watch”—which also made use of Roskopf’s pin pallet escapement. These watches usually employed massed-produced, machine-punched parts, later assembled in riveted movements, making them even cheaper, and unserviceable; the first “throw away watch.”

Fritz-Edouard Roskopf (1835-1927) had his own watch business in Geneva since 1857. He did not produce a Roskopf-style watch, most probably no complete watches at all. Things would change after the death of his father: In 1897 he registered the “thistle” trade mark for watches and began producing a Roskopf watch in the manor of his father’s brainchild. Following in his father’s footsteps, he was granted a patent for a hand-setting mechanism. He was moderately successful and produced many thousands of watches.

The patent marking of a Georges Frederic Roskopf watch.

The Roskopf legacy continues

Roskopf’s grandson—Fritz-Edouard Roskopf—had one son, Louis-Frederic Roskopf. Louis-Frederic was not a watch maker, but dealer of tropical birds. Around 1900, when he realized that almost any watch company in La Chaux de Fonds was making money producing a “Roskopf watch,” he returned to La Chaux de Fonds and, together with watchmaker Léon-Henri Reinbold, founded the Louis Roskopf & Cie watch company. Trade marks were “Louis Roskopf S.A.,” “Petit Fils Roskopf” and “Roskopf Nieto.”

Around 1923, the companies merged with Reconvilier Watch Co. SA, a company active since 1902, and among others making Roskopf type watches. The company remained active till the 1970′s.

Louis Roskopf’s estimated watch production is 10 million watches!

My thanks and acknowledgement to Ulrich Brecher and Paul Von Rampoy.

David Mycko is a WorthPoint Worthologist specializing in antique and vintage watches.

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A collection of clocks on sale at the National Watch & Clock Collectors Association's annual show in Grand Rapids, Mich.

This year the National Watch & Clock Collectors Association (NAWCC) had its annual event/show at the prestigious Devos Convention Center, adjacent to the Grand Amway Hotel in downtown in Grand Rapids, Mich. The “National” is the premiere event of the NAWCC and this year’s show—held in early June—was a real classy event, held at the four star host hotel, the Grand Amway.

The main event was pre-empted by Girrard Sensoli’s World Wide Traders show—a small show—but well-attended by watch enthusiasts from as far away as Japan, China, Europe, and just about every state in the Union. Trading was brisk at first, but quickly tapered off as the bargains were snapped up.

Business continued at a slow but continuous pace as dealers and collectors alike competed for the best of the remaining timepieces. Vintage wrist watches in the sport watch category continue to be the strong sellers, with accessories following a close second. Sales of pocket watches, with the exception of Patek Philippe or the unusual, continue to remain in the doldrums.

When the National opened with great fanfare, it saw a large turnout of both watch and clock enthusiasts, with attendance in the 3,000- to 4,000-person range—which would be small for a public event—but this is a closed show, open only to members of the NAWCC. An exhibit room featured an excellent display of rare Ohio Clocks and a fine array of watches and artifacts from the Chamberlain Collection. The following two days were filled with a day-long watch and clock mart (9 a.m. to 5 p.m.) and six seminars on everything from James Bond’s watches to stenciling clock cases. The mart is a large convention room lined with 900 tables loaded with vintage watches, clocks, various parts, pieces, and the tools associated with this peculiar hobby. This annual event is held in a different state as local chapters get their chance to host the National. But no matter where, collectors and dealers alike bring their best pieces and put their best foot forward for this, the top show of the year. Some of the finest, most unusual antique and vintage clocks and watches turn up at the National, along with the inevitable re-productions.

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A Ball Watch Co.-certified railraod watch made for the Brotherhood of Locomotive Engineers union.

While not made by Ball Watch Co., it is marked on the inside of officially certified railraod watches.

Webb C. Ball was born in Fredericktown, Ohio on Oct. 6, 1847 and became a jeweler & watchmaker. When Standard Time was first adopted in 1883, he was the first jeweler to use time signals, bringing accurate time to Cleveland, Ohio.

After the infamous railroad collision locomotives belonging to the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern railways at Kipton, Ohio, which allegedly occurred because an engineer’s watch had stopped, unnoticed, for about four minutes, then restarted, the railroad officials commissioned Webb C. Ball as their General Time Inspector in order to establish precision standards and a reliable timepiece inspection system for railroad watches.

Webb C. Ball

When these rules were established and inspections started, the results were shocking. Many railroad engineers, conductors, trainmen and officials were carrying cheap “dollar” watches—that came free with a suit—cheap alarm clocks and a myriad of low-end seven- and 15-jewel watches totally incapable of accurate timekeeping. “Standard” clocks in highly sensitive locations that hadn’t had maintenance in years or were cheap “kitchen clocks,” also incapable of reliant timekeeping.

The Ball Watch Company did not manufacture watches directly, but had watches manufactured to the specifications for use in railroad service. Webb Ball established strict guidelines for the manufacturing of sturdy, reliable precision timepieces that were resistant to magnetism and would keep accurate time in three positions (later five), isochronisms and power reserve, accompanied with record keeping of the reliability of the watch on each regular inspection. All Ball watches are distinctively laid out and all marked “Ball Watch Co.” on the movement, case and dial, no mater which watch company produced the watch. This “Ball Watch Co.” markings, therefore, makes it difficult to distinguish which watch company had actually made the watch. Tiny details, like the curve and sweep of a watch plate or the shape of the hairspring stud are the only telltales of the actual maker.

An advertisement for a "Ball Watch."

The Waltham Watch Company complied immediately with the requirements of Ball’s guidelines, later followed by Elgin Watch Company and most of the other American manufacturers. Later on, they were joined by some Swiss watch manufacturers, namely Vacheron & Constantine, Longines, and Omega. The Ball Watch Company branded and distributed watches made by Hamilton, Waltham, Illinois, Elgin, E. Howard, and Hampden. Watches marked “BALL & Co.” are much more difficult to find than those marked “BALL WATCH Co.” Ball watches are today some of the most collectible of the American railroad pocket watches. Ball also produced watches marked for various railroad unions, such as the B. of L.E.(Brotherhood of Locomotive Engineers), the B. of L.F.(Firemen), the B. of R.T.(railroad Trainmen), and the O. of R.C.(Conductors). These watches were produced in very limited quantities and are highly prized by collectors today.

Interesting anecdote about the jewel count in “railroad watches”: Web C. Ball didn’t believe a good watch needed more than 17 jewels to be a high-grade timekeeper. In fact, all of Ball’s early “official standard” railroad watches only had 17 jewels. Later he added two more jewels to the mainspring barrel, bringing the jewel count to 19. This was option not a requirement, making all the holes jeweled. It was competition and customer requests that led Ball to produce watches with 21 and 23 jewels, but in limited quantities. Balls with 23 jewels are hard to find and highly collectible, therefore quite expensive, with 21′s following close behind in the collectible watch world.

Today’s criteria for the certification of each Officially Certified Chronometer (COSC) are still based upon Webb C. Ball’s standards.

At the end of his career, Webb C. Ball oversaw more than 125,000 miles of rail tracks in U.S., Mexico & Canada, having greatly contributed to the safety and security of all railroad systems.

Ball’s jewelry store in Cleveland became very successful and quite well-known, designing and retailing many different types of watches, all to Ball’s exacting standards. Ball’s demanding principles left a cornucopia of wonderful watches and the accessories for today’s collectors.

The original Web C. Ball Watch and Jewelry Company went out of business in the 1960s but was since re-born in Switzerland and is producing high quality durable “sport model” wrist watches.

The colloquial phrase “on the ball” purportedly derives from Webb C. Ball’s watch standards and their reputation for accuracy.

Buy a Ball, time them all!

David Mycko is a WorthPoint Worthologist specializing in watches.

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