Jewelry that is more than 100 years old is classified as antique. Such jewelry is collected for its beauty, its uniqueness and its investment potential. Market fluctuations do not usually affect the value of antique jewelry. With the demand for it being higher than its availability, prices go up. Of course, in the present depressed economy, almost everything has been negatively impacted with the exception of high-end items.

Types of antique jewelry

Antique jewelry is grouped, generally, by historical periods. Each type is characterized by the prevalent styles and fashions of the period in which it was made and the country in which it was made.

As antique jewelry is handmade to a large extent—it was around 1830 that the mass-manufacturing mania caught on in the jewelry industry—we also have the variety presented by each individual jeweler’s unique skills and design sense.

So, how do you know what to collect?

Go by your personal preferences and the jewelry you find interesting. Let your jewelry collection reflect your unique style. Start small, and then expand your scope as you learn more about jewelry and collecting.

You can collect by—

• Period— Georgian, Victorian, Art Nouveau, Edwardian, the Louis style, the Belle Epoque style, the Empire style, etc.

Edwardian bangle

Art Nouveau pin

To learn more about this bangle, click here and here for the pin.

• Theme—Flowers, birds, butterflies, dragonflies, dragons, geometric shapes, cameos, etc.

• Type—rings, bangles, necklaces, stickpins, brooches, lavalieres, pendants, charms, earrings, cuff links, watches, etc.

• Designer—Girolami Venturi, Thomas Flach, Albini, Christian Taute, Lalique, Tiffany, Cartier, etc.

• Metals—yellow gold, red gold, white gold, silver, platinum, etc.

• Gems—diamonds, sapphires, opals, emeralds, paste stones, pearls, coral, turquoise, moonstone, etc.

Lalique glass pendant

This beautiful pendant is being offered on GoAntiques.

Okay, now what should you do before you start collecting antique jewelry?

Get informed. That really should be the first step for collectors in every field. It will save you from being gulled, and it will garner you respect from the professionals. Antique dealers and jewelers are more likely to give you tips about upcoming antique jewelry for sale if they know you are a connoisseur worth your salt.

So build up a good reference library on antique jewelry. See the book list at the end of the story. Learn about—

• The different historical periods of antique jewelry and the different jewelry styles that were prevalent in each;

• The special characteristics of specific period jewelry—the design motifs used, the design elements, the metals and gems used, how hinges, clasps and settings were fashioned;

• The distinguishing differences between real antique jewelry and new reproductions;

• Hallmarks, maker’s marks and caratage rules;

• Different diamond cuts. Specific cuts—rose cuts, cushion cuts, brilliant cuts—were fashionable in specific periods. Knowing them can help you identify the period of the jewelry.

Tiffany yellow-gold ring

Click here for more information this gorgeous ring.

Visit online auction sites like GoAntiques to see what is currently available and at what rates. Know what is most sought after.

Here are some places where you can buy antique jewelry.

• Online—Check online stores, auction sites like GoAntiques, jewelry collectors’ Web sites.

• Antique and jewelry shops—Some shops specialize in antique jewelry.

• Estate sales—Heirloom treasures may crop up here.

• Antique auctions—Auctions organized by auction houses like Sotheby’s and Christie’s are probably your best bet for getting extraordinary and rare antique jewelry. At, of course, appropriately exorbitant prices. You may also find outstanding pieces at jewelers who specialize in only the finest pieces.

• Antique dealers—Establish contacts with reputed antique dealers, and ask them to look out for antique jewelry for you.

Carved Elizabethan lady cameo

Find more information about this beautiful cameo by going to GoAntiques.

Here’s what you ought to do before buying antique jewelry.

Set a definite budget.

Visit different outlets and compare prices for similar types of jewelry.

Examine the jewelry. Check for maker’s marks, metal color inconsistencies at solder joins and seams, indications of repairs or breakage. Ask online sellers for closeup photos.

Ask if the jewelry has ever been repaired or the gemstones replaced. Repairs and replacements detract from value. Inquire about metals used and about provenance.

Check if hinges, catches and settings are in good condition. Some amount of wear is expected in antique jewelry, but it shouldn’t be too worn.

Check if the design elements and forming techniques correspond to the period in which it was made.

Bakelite cameo pin

This unusual pin is being offered on GoAntiques.

Ask the jeweler for a “return within a week for a full refund” buying option while you have the jewelry appraised. Get this buying option and the jewelry description detailed on the receipt, and have it appraised by an independent, certified jeweler.

Caring for your antique jewelry

• Keep it safe and insured.

• Know how to store. Diamonds, for example, scratch other diamonds if heaped together. Opals, corals and turquoise are easily damaged. Necklace strands get entangled. Pearls spoil if not aired from time to time, and pearl silk strands weaken if hung up. Store in separate trays and not in an airless safe.

• Avoid daily use. Household and garden chemicals adversely affect the jewelry. Also, antiques may not stand up to regular wear, and repairs are hard, expensive and value reducing.

A well-cared, lovingly assembled jewelry collection is an aesthetic pleasure, and it may also prove to be financially rewarding.

Cartier engagement ring, circa 1905

The Cartier ring is without question a beauty. Click here if you would like to find out more.

Recommended reading

“Antique Jewelry: A Practical & Passionate Guide” by Rose Leiman Goldemberg

“The Official Identification and Price Guide to Antique Jewelry (Official Price Guide to Antique Jewelry)” by Arthur Guy Kaplan

“Antique Trader Jewelry Price Guide” by Kyle Husfloen

“A Connoisseur’s Guide to Antique Jewelry” by Ronald Pearsall

“Jeweled Garden: A Colorful History of Gems, Jewelry, and Nature” by Suzanne Tennenbaum

“Masterpieces of French Jewelry” by Judith Price

“Illustrated Guide to Jewelry Appraising, 3rd Edition: Antique, Period, and Modern” by Anna M. Miller

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“Oriental” is a catchall word for several countries ranging from the Caucasus to Southeast Asia to the Middle East. These include China, Tibet, India, Pakistan, Iran, Afghanistan, Turkey, Uzbekistan, Armenia and Azerbaijan.

Oriental carpets have a long history. The earliest one known is the Pazyryk carpet from 500 B.C., discovered by the Russian archaeologist, Sergei Rudenko. Other carpets have been found in places like Turfan in Central Asia and in Fostat in Egypt. The early weavers and users of carpets were nomads. Beginning with grasses, reeds and fibers, they progressed to wool and silk. To them, the carpet was an all-purpose accessory—for sitting, for sleeping, as a tent door hanging, as a cart covering, as a saddle cloth and as a bundle into which household goods were rolled.

Persian Serapi carpet, circa 1900

Find out more about this spectacular carpet on GoAntiques.

Weaving methods, patterns and design ideas spread as the nomads traveled. When urbanization happened, the carpets, which had so far been small sized for carrying ease, began to assume larger proportions. Traders and the Crusaders introduced oriental carpets to the West. The carpets with their intricate designs, luminous colors and soft textures were an instant hit. Their popularity has never since waned.

Oriental Carpets: Types and Making

Oriental carpets are traditionally handmade on a loom. They come in wide varieties and types differentiated by:
• Region—Country where made. Each country has its own specialty. But, be warned, designs often transcend borders.
• Area—Made in a rural area or an urban setting. Rural carpets are mostly made by nomads or village weavers, working singly or in small groups. The urban ones are often by weaver collectives.
• Design—Traditional or modern.
• Colors—Bright, muted, neutral.
• Material—Silk or wool or a combination of both.
• Size—Large, medium, small.

Vibrant Heriz Persian

Click here if this Heriz Persian carpet interests you.

Factory-made oriental rugs are priced lower and are inferior in terms of artistry, design and durability. As the same rug is available in quantities, they do not have any collectible value.

Collecting Oriental Carpets: Expensive Pastime

Connoisseurs and financial investors collect handmade oriental carpets. Prices can range from a few thousand dollars to several thousand dollars. The most valuable are the antique ones that are more than 100 years old. The reasons why handmade oriental carpets have high value—
• Carpet weaving by hand is a lengthy process. A 6-feet-by-9-feet carpet, for example, could take a weaver around six months, longer for complicated designs.
• Each handmade carpet is the product of a person’s or a few persons’ unique artistic vision and weaving skill. This cannot be reproduced by machine.
• Antique carpets have beautifully glowing colors that only come with age.
• Each antique carpet is a one-of-a-kind work.
• More buyers than antique carpets. So their value continually climbs and generally stays above the inflation rate.

Late 1900s Persian Bijar carpet

This Bijar carpet can be found on GoAntiques.

Buying an Oriental Carpet

Antique carpets are sold by the piece. The knot count, material, origin, condition, age and current market demand determine the price. New handmade carpets are priced by the square foot.

As with most purchases, unless you want to be taken for a carpet ride, being well informed helps. Be reasonably acquainted with carpet types and terms. Research carpets and carpet prices at GoAntiques and other online sales and auction sites. Read books on carpet collecting. See the book list at the end of this story.

Buying carpets at antique auctions requires a certain level of expertise. Not recommended for beginners.

Go instead to a well-established, well-reputed oriental-carpet dealer’s shop. There are two reasons for this—
• They will have high-quality carpets.
• They won’t offload a chemically aged fake antique on you.

Have some idea of the kind of carpet you want, its colors, design and size. Take along your room measurements to get the size right.

Chinese floral carpet

If you are captivated by this exquisite Chinese carpet, check out GoAntiques.

See many carpets before making a buying decision. Never buy in a hurry, on a whim or under pressure.

Examine each carpet carefully—
• Is it in a good condition?
• Is it well sheared?
• Is the color scheme well balanced?
• Is the texture soft?
• Does the pile base feel thick? That’s a good sign.
• Look at the carpet’s backside. The tiny bumps there are the knots. Generally, many, small knots indicate a fine, durable carpet.
• Has the antique carpet been repaired? Expertly done, barely visible repairs may not detract from its value. Shoddy repair work, however, certainly will.

Ask if you can take the carpet home to see how it will look in your home.

Before you buy it, ask for provenance and a guarantee of authenticity.

Persian Bakhtiari from 1930s

Click here for more information on this Persian carpet.

Ask the dealers if they or a trusted service they know can provide you with future carpet-cleaning services. Unless you know what you are doing, antique carpets are best cleaned by professionals.

Place the carpet in a low-traffic area. One, preferably, not frequented by pets and very small children. Avoid putting heavy furniture or plant pots on the carpet. An oriental carpet is a work of art and perhaps best seen in an unhampered, central position in a room.

Recommended Books:

“Oriental Carpets: A Complete Guide—The Classic Reference” by Murray L. Eiland, Murray Eiland III

“Oriental Carpet Design: A Guide to Traditional Motifs, Patterns and Symbols” by P. R. J. Ford

“Oriental Rugs: A Buyer’s Guide” by Lee Allane

“The Illustrated Buyer’s Guide to Oriental Carpets (Schiffer Book for Collectors)” by J. R. Azizollahoff

“Sotheby’s Guide to Oriental Carpets” by Walter B. Denny, Norma Jean Jourdenais, Sotheby’s

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Editor’s Note: There are all manner of gun collectibles and antiques. One of the more interesting types is World War I flare guns.

Guns enthrall collectors for a variety of reasons—for their mechanical design, for their historical value or for a liking of weapons. They collect them by type, make, style or period. If you are into collecting World War I guns, flare guns could add an interesting highlight to your collection.

Lt. Edward Wilson Very, of the U.S. Navy, invented the flare gun in 1877, and the U.S. Navy first used these guns for signaling and communication purposes in 1882. By 1910, flare guns, referred to as “Very” pistols, were being used the world over. During the First World War, they either played an important role in guiding soldiers to safety and in bringing them succor or helped send them to their doom.

Flares Guns in the First World War

The flare guns of the First World War were larger in size than Very’s 10-gauge shell original. Common bore sizes were 1 inch or 1.5 inch, but different design styles developed in different countries. Lighter, one-hand grip models replaced heavier, two-hand grip guns. Instead of a single barrel, some guns had two to four barrels. Webley & Scott, J. G. Anschütz, Remington, Inman, Meffert Gewehrfabrik and Greifelt & Co were some leading manufacturers of flare guns. Some well-known flare-gun models were Hebel, Druckknopf, Eisfeld, Pioneer and Remington Mark III.

World War I Hebel (photo courtesy of Bob Adams)

Flare guns operated like normal guns. Pulling the trigger made the hammer strike the detonator cap, and this unleashed the flare. The gun, pointed upward, shot out a bright-colored flare, usually of magnesium, that glowed for around 5 to 40 seconds and was visible for miles around in clear weather conditions. Usually, firing flares in quick succession was necessary to catch attention. The flare sequences, the intervals between firing and the flare colors used were predetermined, so there would be no confusing friendly flares for enemy ones or vice versa.

Remington Mark III

Take a closer look at this flare gun on GoAntiques.

Although, primarily meant for signaling, there were instances of downed pilots or cornered soldiers using flare guns as defensive weapons.

Collecting World War I Flare Guns

• The first step in beginning a collection is to get well informed. Gather good reference materials including price guides. Read up on different makes and types of World War I flare guns. Learn about gun serial numbers, manufacturer markings and inspector stamps.

• Attend online as well as offline gun shows, gun auctions and gun collectors’ shows. Rare gun collectibles often surface in these places. You also get to meet gun vendors, dealers and more-seasoned collectors. They may have the right leads, information or advice for you.

• Join historical societies, and subscribe to gun and auction magazines. These are good sources for research and may also have guns-for-sale advertisements. Check the ads in local papers, too. Advertising your interest in collecting flare guns may also help.

• Visit antique and gun shops specializing in war memorabilia, gun- or war-memorabilia-related Web sites and estate sales.

• Check if there are WWI flare guns for sale on GoAntiques and other online retailers, and what the current bids on the items are.

Royal Air Force flare gun

Click here for more details on this RAF gun.

• As far as possible, buy flare guns in fine condition. Inferior ones won’t appreciate in value over time in case you’re thinking in investment terms.

• Make sure the provenance is in order before buying. The flare gun you want should come with a valid proof of authenticity—photographs, written letters, official paperwork, clear manufacturer’s marks and proper serial numbers, a verifiable record of how the seller came to possess it, etc.

• Get the flare gun authenticated by an expert in World War I gun memorabilia. The Birks Foundation may be able to help you with this.

Maintaining your flare-gun collection

• Flare guns fall in the firearms category, and as firearms manufactured more than 50 years ago, WWI flare guns come in the curio or relics section of the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms’ CFR Title 27, Volume 1, 178.11. You may have to get them deactivated and/or get a legal permit to have them around. Check with the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms (BATF), and go through the National Firearms Act (NFA) and the National Firearms Act Handbook. Also visit the National Firearms Act Trade and Collectors Association Web site.

• Implement gun-safety rules. Keep the flare guns unloaded and securely out of reach of children and casual visitors.

• Consult an expert before cleaning a flare gun.

• If you want to try out the flare gun, check online for manufacturers making compatible flares. Don’t use any old flares. Flares, past the use date or incompatible, could explode and cause accidents.

Resources to check:
FineOldGuns
ArmsBid
GunBooksSales
RutgersGunBooks
Buchverlag Delphine Kern
Buchhandel
Antique Advertising, Arms & Accoutrements

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Walt Disney once said, “We’re interested in doing things that are fun, in bringing pleasure, particularly laughter, to people.” His company has achieved this so splendidly that now it’s a rare, remote household that remains unacquainted with at least one or the other of Disney characters, and there’s a growing global network of collectors infected with the pleasure principal of doing things that are fun . . . like collecting Disney collectibles or Disneyana.

Types of Disney collectibles—What to choose

The thing with collecting Disneyana— a popular term covering all Disney collectibles —is that it’s too easy to get bewitched. So where do you start? What do you collect? Should you collect for pleasure or for investment?

Collecting for pleasure is where you buy items you personally crave and collecting for investment is where you collect items you hope other people will eventually crave. Nothing wrong with the investment aspect—although you do have to keep your purchase in mint, boxed, sealed condition with sales receipts, labels and stickers intact, and there is something rather comical about a well-preserved, unopened box traveling the whole A-to-Z collectors gamut at increasing cost—but as Walt Disney said about Disneyland, “[It] is a work of love. We didn’t go into [it] just with the idea of making money.” So why not have some joy alongside? Collect two of an item—one for now and one for the rainy rich day.

Collect by character, movie or product. Or by theme parks, rides and attractions. Here are some collectibles to consider—

● Glass, crystal, porcelain and plastic figurines
● Music and movie CDs/DVDs/tapes/records
● Books, comics, park maps, Disneyland guidebooks and Disney passports
● Original Disney artwork, cards, lithographs, serigraphs, animation cels and photographs
● Stickers, badges, buttons and pins
● Pen, pencils, sharpeners and erasers
● Snow globes, coin banks, key chains, bells, candles and license plates
● Watches, clocks, lamps, candle holders, ornaments and jewelry

● Collectors’ plates, mugs, glasses, cookie jars, salt-and-pepper shakers, fork-and-knife sets, dishes, bowls, cake toppers and egg cups
● Toys, puzzles, TV scenes, play sets, gift-box sets, store displays and theme-park souvenirs
● T-shirts, dresses, coats, hats and ties
● Towels, napkins, pillows and bed covers
● Purses and bags
● Paper cups, straws, sugar packets and so on

Disney collectibles—Manufacturers

As with any type of collecting, the more well-informed you are, the better your chances of amassing a notable collection. Research the Disney collectibles that interest you—read books and articles, visit/join collectors Web sites like the Walt Disney Collectors Society, the National Fantasy Fan Club and the Disney Pin Trading, subscribe to their newsletters and interact with other collectors. Find out as much as you can about history, artists, manufacturers, production, product types, materials, editions, prices and authenticity-defining marks or features. Stay tuned to news about upcoming conventions, new limited editions, secondary markets and auctions.

Know that many different licensed vendors produced Disney products over the years, some of the prominent ones being Chad Valley, Hagen-Renaker, Wade, Louis Marx, Harmony Kingdom, Vivid Imaginations, California Originals, Hummels, Lenox, Mattel, Royal Doulton.

The Walt Disney Co. began producing its own line of collectibles in 1992. The Walt Disney Classics Collection includes more than 100 figurines (each coming with a production-year backstamp and a certificate of authentication), the Enchanted Places line (background scenes from Disney animated films) and the Disney Villains Series.

Recommended Disney collectibles—

Disney collectibles fall under vintage (from 1928 to 1968) and contemporary (from 1968 onward) categories. Among those to look out for—

● Chad Valley sets featuring Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs, first issued in the 1930s and rare and expensive now
● The Hagen-Renaker figurines from Snow White, Lady and the Tramp, Alice in Wonderland, Dumbo, Cinderella, Bambi, Pinocchio, Mickey Mouse and Friends, and Fantasia
● The Hatbox series of Disney figurines by Wade, introduced in 1956, featuring characters from Lady and the Tramp, Bambi and Friends, 101 Dalmatians, the Sword in the Stone, the Fox and the Hound

●Disney Bears—Winnie the Pooh, Koda and Kenai, Baloo, Little John, Gummi Bears, Fozzie Bear, Plush Bear and JoJo
●Disney Classics and Disney Traditions from Enesco
●Disney Princesses from Lenox

Disney Collectibles—Where to buy

Apart from buying directly from the above-mentioned manufacturers, there are scores of online and offline places where you can shop for collectibles. Start with the Disney Stores at the various Disney parks, many of which cater to collectors and have items unique to that particular park. You can buy in person or over the phone using Disney DelivEars (800-362-4533).

Visit online sites like The Disney Store, Disneyana, GoAntiques and WorthPoint.

Try offline places like gift shops, flea markets, antique markets, garage sales and roadside sales.

What to keep in mind

Buy the best you can within your budget. Having a budget is important as Disneyana can carry you far and away. Prices of Disney collectibles, depending on type, rarity, company and where you’re buying, can range from $15 to more than $1,000.

Check the Worthopedia database here at WorthPoint for how much Disney collectibles sold at past auctions.

When buying online, check the seller’s profile, make sure you have a money-back guarantee, and ask for the item to be well packed and insured before it is shipped.

Take good care of your collection. To quote Disney again—”It’s something that will never be finished. Something that I can keep developing . . . and adding to.”

WorthPoint—Get the Most from Your Antiques & Collectibles

Given for free with items such as oats, flour or laundry soap, sold at five-and-dime stores or for a nickel at “Dish Nites” at cinema halls and gas stations, this cheap, mass-produced glassware buoyed up an entire glass industry, as well as the spirits of an entire nation. Scanty meals seemed more bearable with the bright-colored glass, and the expensive-sounding pattern names, in evoking memories of happier days, held out a glimmer of hope for the future.

Paradoxically, in the immediate aftermath of the Great Depression, this glassware became a jarring reminder of painful times. Many people, as they prospered, threw it out.

No one, of course, had counted on the vagaries of the collecting world to turn it into a highly collectible, high-priced glassware, valued as much for its design as for its symbolism of triumph over adversity.

Collecting Depression glass

There are now more than 150,000 Depression-glass collectors in America. With more than 200 Depression-glass patterns to collect, not to mention a prolific industry of reproductions and fakes to sift through, these collectors have their work cut out. Newbies, as in any enterprise, should get well informed before loosening their purse strings. So—

• Buy the latest edition of Gene Florence’s well-researched, comprehensive book, “Collectors’ Encyclopedia of Depression Glass”, as well as other Depression-glass reference books, price guides and catalogs.

• Join Depression-glass collectors’ associations and clubs, visit online forums, read articles and subscribe to mailing lists. The National Depression Glass Association sends out informative newsletters, and magazines such as Reproduction News can be enlightening.

• Visit museums with Depression-glass collections, and attend Depression-glass shows and conventions. Talk to dealers, glass experts and other collectors.

• Learn about Depression-glass manufacturers and their marks. Some of the leading Depression-glass makers were Westmoreland, Heisey, Fostoria, Jeannette, Anchor-Hocking, McBeth-Evans, Hazel Atlas, Federal Glass, Indiana Glass Company and U.S. Glass.

• These manufacturers produced Art Deco, geometric or classical designs in Elegant Glass and Depression Glass. Elegant Glass, after mechanical production, was refurbished, etched and polished by hand. Depression Glass wasn’t. Some of the most popular patterns were Avocado, Royal Lace, Cameo, Mayfair, American Sweetheart, Princess, Cherry Blossom, Sharon, Patrician, Madrid, Moderntone, Windsor, Adam, Sierra, Diana, Waterford, Columbia, Miss America, Iris and Herringbone and Rosemary.

• Depression glass came in different transparent colors such as crystal, pink, amber, blue, green, yellow, red, orange, lavender, iridescent, black and white. There were also some opaque patterns and pieces decorated with gold, platinum and even colored enamel.

• Depression glassware included plates, tumblers, bowls, cups and saucers, decanters, vases, candlesticks, lamps and so on.

• Learn how to recognize authentic Depression glass, determine condition, to detect chips and cracks.

Once you know what’s what, we come to the “Okay, so where do I buy it?” part, and you can take your pick from flea markets, church bazaars, garage sales, antique shops, classified-newspaper ads, estate auctions and online auctions. Or try all of these.

Prices depend on glassware type, design pattern and color, manufacturer, rarity, location of sale and demand from collectors. There is no hard-and-fast pricing.

Tips for Collectors—

Finding pieces to complete a set can be challenging. Many original pieces are difficult or impossible to find on the market nowadays. Or, if available, are expensive. Rare items include butter dishes, serving pieces, lids, cobalt-blue mixing bowls, refrigerator dishes, measuring cups and canisters. Also hard to find are the Shirley Temple cereal bowls, mugs and milk pitchers.

Scratches and nicks are inevitable in regularly used Depression glassware. Even so, avoid buying severely nicked or flawed glass.

Examine each piece carefully before buying. If buying online, ask seller to list all visible flaws, and make sure there’s a money-back guarantee.

Sound like hard work? Not really, and besides, these collectibles are worth any effort you expend.

Other stories by Sonal Panse:

Antiques, Art & Collectibles Auction Ploys

Finding Art & Collectibles in All the Right Places

Paperweight Collectibles Find a Following

WorthPoint—the premier Web site for art, antiques and collectibles

Establishing provenance for art, antiques and collectibles

For provenance, you need sales receipts, gallery stickers, exhibition catalogs, catalogs raisonnés, ownership records, newspaper/magazine articles about the work, articles/letters by art experts describing the work and photographs of the work with the artist. Audio or video of the artist discussing the work or the testimony of someone close to the artist is also acceptable.

Provenance, however, is not always well documented, and there may be plenty gaps for various reasons.

• No records survive for antique works
• Neglect in keeping records or preserving sales documentation when the works have been in the family for centuries
• Business closure in the case of many dealers and auction houses from previous centuries
• Anonymous buying and selling by many rich collectors
• Documentation loss due to natural disasters such as earthquake, fire, flooding
• Lack of protection from weather decay or pests
• Losing documents when moving
• Archives lying simply undiscovered or, due to political reasons, inaccessible

In the absence of valid documentation, establishing provenance can be tricky. Especially as the art-market boom has led to a proliferation of forgeries and con men like John Drewe, whose phony art and documentation fooled everyone for ages.

Fakes apart, looted or stolen works, of wartime era or illegally exported, are a major concern. Be especially wary when buying art and antiques that were in Europe during the 1930s and 1940s. With all the complexities of restituting the more than 250,000 Nazi-looted artworks to their former owners or their descendants, a checkered provenance might very well land you in the legal soup.

It is important therefore to consult a reputed expert—someone with in-depth knowledge about that particular art/artist, several scholarly articles/publications to his/her name and well-respected art-world credentials.

Expert appraisal and authentication can, on occasion, lead to a startling revelation, as happened in the case of Tammy H. of Colorado. Thom Pattie, the chief Worthologist here at WorthPoint, recognized her rescued-from-a-dump painting as “Coin De Paris, Rue de Meaux,” a work by the 20th-century Japanese artist Takanori Oguiss. The painting later garnered $103,000 at Sotheby’s.

Here is a video of Thom Pattie talking about his work.

Tips for collectors

Get certificates of authentication, warranties and guarantees from the seller.

Provenance documents must mention the work in question and must be original.

Check and cross-check previous owners, galleries and auction houses.

Research auctions at ArtPrice.com and ArtNet.com.

Check the lost or stolen works database at the London-based Art Loss Register and at the International Foundation for Art Research.

Visit

The Getty Provenance Index

The National Gallery of Art Provenance Search

The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Chinese Art – Research into Provenance