Beanie Baby

As we grow older, we see many things coming back from our early years. Fashion is probably number one; I’m expecting that one of these days soon you will be pulling your leisure suit and Nehru jacket out of the bag in the attic so you can tool around in style.

The economic conditions currently we face do have correlations with other economic troubles, including the Great Depression. Wise people understood that high-end antiques would always have value and gain value. Henry F. du Pont (1880-1969) was an avid collector and wealthy beyond imagination. He could have purchased the newest and best of anything he wanted, but he furnished Winterthur—his elegant country home in Delaware—with antiques. Now, Winterthur is where everyone goes to see prime American items from the 18th and 19th century. Few know that with all his wealth he still bought on time, paying an amount over a period of time until it was his.

Billy Beer

Some people do have the foresight to invest in antiques and collectibles, but the items they buy don’t have lasting value. The people that stocked up on Beanie Babies and Billy Beer understand what I mean: Good thinking, wrong choice.

We are fast approaching another period of time when proper buying will be able to put your great grandchildren through college or buy that new house or vacation home.

Yes, it is true that we baby boomers are getting older (at least some of us). We need to understand that we were—and are—the collecting generation. Our offspring do not have the same desires or time that we did. Remember when summer lasted forever and you and the boy or girl you met that summer would be together forever? What happened? Time moved on and now seems to pass at supersonic speed, as there are so many activities available to consume all of our time. Our children raise their kids and prepare them for this super-charged future where there is not enough time for our children to have an interest in anything but surviving and keeping up with work.

Hopalong Cassidy

OK, so I ramble on and you wonder what the heck does this have to do with anything? Well, we know that two things are certain—death and taxes. Our generation is starting to fade away; our children do not or did not have the same interest we had. Therefore, they know far less about collecting, and some of our more valuable items will fall through the cracks when we (or our kids) put these items into the secondary market (auctions, estate sales, etc).

It is time to start looking at all of our stuff again. That Nehru jacket you threw away might just be worth more than your car.

If you question the value of an item, use the Worthopedia for a competitive market analysis or use the Ask a Worthologist to establish an estimated value.

Thom Pattie is WorthPoint’s Chief Worthologist.

WorthPoint—Discover Your Hidden Wealth

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Videographer: Scott Shactman
Editor: Alison Harder

WorthPoint – Discover Your Hidden Wealth

Hand-Tinted Photography: by Erin C. Kruml

Wallace Nutting

Demand for hand tinted photographs skyrocketed in the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s, increasing steadily into the present. Since the meager beginnings as affordable middle-class art in the 1900s to 1930s, hand-tinted photographs, in general, are now highly desirable collectibles. Often exterior or outdoor scenes and interior colonial fabricated scenes were photographed and then the photograph was hand painted and sent for matting, creating great gifts and art for any home. Wallace Nutting is the most commercially successful of all hand-tinted photographers. As today’s market swells with hand tinted photography, finding the differences between Nutting and other photographers is complicated, especially because so many early 20th century photographers used similar processes as Nutting, and a few even worked with him, adapting many of his formulas and themes. Many collecting issues have arisen from the plentiful number of photographs on the market today including: artist, subject matter or theme, size, signatures, and condition.
Hand-tinted or hand-colored photography of the early 20th century was inexpensive and a must have for almost any middle class home of the era. In the beginning, photos were colored by the photographer, but with demand came larger studios and staffs of colorists. For example, between 1920-1925 Nutting had a staff of 100 colorists, leading to hundreds of hand-tinted photographs and a decrease in price. Each picture was composed based on these elements: season, time of day, theme, distance and angle from the object, size of the lens, speed of the plate, direction of the sun, and time of exposure (Wallace Nutting-like Photographers 3-8). Unlike others, Nutting took every picture he produced and then gave them a title before coloring. Glass negatives were printed on expensive platinum paper that would not blur the image (during WWI a substitute paper was used, but the differences are negligible). The head colorist would then detail a sample picture for the photographer’s approval, which, when approved, would become the model for other colorists to follow as they produced the pictures in different sizes. In Nutting’s case, the picture was first covered in amyl acetate to help the colors stick and then painted with imported paint from England. After another check by the head colorist, the pictures were sent for mounting. Most mats were tan and indented, while in the 1930 Nutting added black mats, but never it caught on publicly. Finally, a colorist would add the signature, explaining the variance in signatures. Many buyers would reframe the pictures, which is why there exists so many different frames and mat sizes. Nutting created about 10,000 different titles, selling millions of copies ranging in sizes from 2” x 3” to 20” x 40” (Wallace Nutting Pictures 16-20). Other photographers had smaller studios and some did the coloring themselves, but none reached the success of Nutting.
Other popular hand tinted photographers of the era include David Davidson, Fred Thompson, Charles H. Sawyer, and Charles Higgins. A large number of other photographers made tinted photographs. They are not as prolific but include the following: C. J. Burnett (the first to use photographer to use platinum paper), Babcock, J. Bicknell, S.L. Blair, E.A. Bragg, Bill Brehmer, Brooks Burrows, L.A. Busch, Pedro Cacciola, C.D. Currier, Derek, Farini, Gardner, Gibson, Gunn, Guy Edward, Harris, Haynes, Margaret Hennesey, Hodges, Homer, Kabel, Kattleman, Lake, Lamson, Murray, Lyman Nelson, Patterson, Owen Perry, Phelps, Phinney, P. Reynolds, Royce, Sheldon, Stott, W.R. Summers, Ester Svenson, Thomas Thompson, Sanford Tull, Underhill, Villas, Arthur Ward, and Wright. The next few paragraphs elaborate on some of the better-known photographers.
David Davidson was Nutting’s assistant for a time. Davidson, working out of Southbury CT, created many pictures of Rhode Island, Vermont, and New Hampshire. Though many were exterior, his interior scenes were colonial influenced, like Nutting. Pictures from 1905-25 were lightly colored, while 1925-30s were heavily colored. Most had indented mats and were signed in both pencil and pen. However, during WWI he spent most of his time on motion pictures, especially newsreels (Wallace Nutting-Like Photographs 11-23).
Fred Thompson opened Thompson Art Company in 1908 (which explains why TACO is printed on his photographs). Dying in 1909, his son, Fredrick Thompson, took over the company. Thompson’s signature was in pencil, usually in thick block letters and very distinctive; it did not vary like Nutting’s. The mats were usually white linen and were often sold with other decorative items, like mirrors and calendars. Most pictures were taken in Maine, including his famous Portland Head lighthouse photograph (27-37).
Charles H. Sawyer and his Sawyer Picture Company focused on New England exterior pictures. Sawyer worked for Nutting 1902-3. He used similar processes, but changed from Platinum paper to Satista. All his pictures are exterior of the White Mountains of New Hampshire. Like Nutting, his signature is usually in the lower left or lower right corner or he also reversed-out in white on the photograph itself. Sawyer liked to accentuate the oranges and browns in his photographs. His later work, 1950-70, contained no glass within the frame. His company persisted the longest, into the 1970s (39-45).
Charles Higgins began his work taking pictures in Maine of work ships and maritime scenes. Though having a similar processing procedure as Nutting, Higgins staff was only composed of ten during his height in the 1920s. He photographed few interior scenes. Most Higgins photos are found in New England, due to his small commercial success. Higgins themes included exteriors, interiors, children, Indians, boats and seascapes. Finally, the signature is within the mat indentation and the title is below the indentation (49-54).
Despite the numerous photographers of the era, Nutting rose above of all then in quality and success, remaining the most sought after hand tinted photographer today. However, there are many considerations in collecting his photographs besides the presence of similar artists including: theme, size, signature, and condition. Nutting themes include exterior, interior, foreign, animals, seascapes, children, floral, men, snow scenes, and miscellaneous. Exterior scenes are composed of apple blossoms, birch trees, country lanes, ponds, lakes, and autumnal scenes. 85% of his exterior scenes were taken in spring or summer seasons. Being so common, they are valued less today. However, exterior scenes with people often sell for more than rare interiors, the price rising with the amount of people in the picture. Interior scenes often had a colonial influence, including the fashion of the models and the chosen furniture. Nutting’s hobby was antiquing, helping him achieve a realistic impression. Still, interior scenes were less popular during their day, accounting for 10% of his pictures. Therefore, interior scenes are relatively rare and usually valued at several times that of the exterior scenes (Wallace Nutting Pictures 19-22; 34).
The remaining themes are often valued higher due to their rarity. Nutting traveled abroad three times. Most pictures were taken in England and Ireland. Photos taken in Algeria, Italy, Egypt, Palestine, Scotland, France, Spain, Germany, Switzerland, Greece, Syria, Holland, Turkey and especially Canada have more value. Photos with animals sold poorly, probably because most people lived in rural settings. Sheep are the easiest to find. The rarest include horses or chickens. Only 20-25 seascapes were ever made and those remaining today are usually held in private collections. Pictures with children often did not sell well, with the exception of The Coming Out of Rosa, and are also valued highly today. Nutting did not produce floral themes until the 1930s. Hand tinted photos made in the 1930s are brighter than before because the depression made platinum paper unavailable. Usually taken by Mrs. Nutting, these pictures are rare, (only 30-40 different scenes), and often close-up, very uncharacteristic for Nutting pictures. Pictures with men sold badly, but those containing red jackets or Uncle Sam are the most sought after today. Snow scenes, due to the climate of New England, sold poorly and are usually untitled. The past’s dislikes makes snow scenes quite valuable today. Miscellaneous photos include uncategorized themes and pictures from states outside of New England. These pictures were taken after the peak of Nutting’s business and therefore sold less overall. Foreign scenes and miscellaneous scenes increase in price the quickest, being the rarest, are the most highly sought after by collectors (31-7).
The second consideration is size, which affects the value in the usual way; larger photos are valued higher than smaller ones. However, there are two exceptions: miniatures receive higher value than most large pictures and very large sizes, like 20” x 30”, 20” x 40”, or 30” x 52”, are priced low. Collectors consider two sizes, that of the mat and the picture. If the ratio between the two are unbalanced than the mat has been cropped, usually to hide stains and wear (27).
The third consideration is the signature; it helps date and authenticates a photograph. Like other photographers of his time, the head colorist actually signed most pictures. Pencil signatures are much rarer then pen signatures because pencil signatures were only used between 1900-10, while pen signatures were used for the remaining period of Nutting’s business, 1910-1941. Nutting worked in Southbury CT from 1905-1912 and then in Framingham MA from 1912 until 1941. Pen signatures without a black border were made between 1910-1930. Pen signatures with a black border were produced from 1930-1941. Overall, 1930s signatures were smaller and tighter than previous signatures (39-49).
The fourth and most important consideration is the overall condition, which includes the picture, matting, frame, etc. Any spots, foxing, or water stains on the picture itself are indicators of being improperly stored, usually somewhere damp. Many pictures were placed in an area that received at least some sunlight. Over the years, this can have a devastating impact on the colors and fading is a common problem impacting condition. Also, each colorist had different levels of skill and, therefore, some pictures are aesthetically better than others. The off-white backing where the signature and title are is considered the matting. A water-stained mat decreases the value by 25-50%. Other problems with mats include yellowing, spotting, tearing, and creasing. An overmat may be used to hide these problems, but are worth half as less as an original, unstained mat. Also, black borders indicate a 1930s picture, but are unpopular among some collectors.
Finally, the frame is usually a brown and wooden. However, Nutting sold as many as 15 different types of frames. Any chipping, pitting, paint, or ugly frames take away from the value of the picture. Also, collectors want to look for the original paper backing, a copyright label, and the original wavy glass for an increase in value (22-27).
Finally, beware of 1920s pirated prints and 1970s reproductions! However, there are some easy ways to tell a fake. The pirated prints are those created by copying popular Nutting pictures with a machine. A magnifying glass can reveal a symmetrical series of dots that indicate machine copying. Many have a colored border around the picture itself, eliminating Nutting’s signature, but keeping the title in the same place. The 1970s reproductions are photographs of actual Nutting photographs and can be seen as fakes through a magnifying glass. The photos are darker and glossier, the mats are thin, the signature has a purplish tint, and the frames are newer (70-2). Wallace Nutting photographs are wonderful collectables, but before you start your personal collection, learn as much as you can about hand tinted photography in order to make sure you are bringing home a classic, not a dud. A great place to start is two books by Michael Ivankovich, which are listed as references.
Ivankovich, Michael. Collecting Wallace Nutting Pictures: Identifications and Values. Collector Books, Paducah KY, 1997.

Ivankovich, Michael. Wallace Nutting-Like Photographers of the 20th century. Diamond Press, Doylestown, 1991.

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Worthologist Thom Pattie examines and evaluates an antique Carl Zeiss telescope at Treasures from the Attic, a fund raising event held at the Metz Middle School in Manassas, Virginia. Proceeds from the event support the Manassas Musuem.

WorthPoint – Get the Most from your Antiques and Collectibles.

The Chicago Tribune, Obama’s hometown paper, went into overdrive. “To keep up with the incredible demand,” said Michael Dizon, the Tribunes’ communications manager, “an additional 410,000 copies—almost double our normal circulation for a Wednesday—were printed.”

“Additionally, we will print an eight-page supplement and a Sunday special edition featuring Chicago Tribune covers of President-elect Obama’s career in Chicago,” Dizon added. The Tribune will also produce about 5,000 posters and 2,000 commemorative metal plates of the front page of the newspaper, all of which are available in its online store for purchase.

Other papers printed additional copies

This was not out of the ordinary. The venerable Washington Post also published an additional 350,000 copies, Detroit’s two daily newspapers reprinted a combined 110,000 copies, The New York Times sold an additional 75,000 copies, and USA Today will continue to sell reprints of its Nov. 5 edition. All the newspapers can be bought individually online or at their newspaper offices for the regular newsstand prices.

Washington Post records the moment (left), New York Times: one word said it all (right)

What has proved out of the ordinary is the extended life Obama newspaper collectibles have taken to the point that news stories are appearing about this phenomenon.

A recent check eBay showed 5,417 different auctions of the Nov. 5 Obama election newspapers from around the country in blocks of 10 to 100, individually, or in series of several different newspapers.

I’ve been monitoring the Buy It Now prices at the top level starting at $9,900 for 100 Chicago Tribunes to one seller who is touting a “how they sold a $400 Obama newspaper on eBay and how you can, too” telephone seminar for a Buy It Now price of $500 (that includes a copy of New York Times Nov. 5 edition).

I’ve even talked to a fellow collector/dealer who is aware of someone who bought that edition of the Times, he thinks, for $2,500. Several times over the past few days, a Nov 5 edition has sold for several hundred dollars or more.

There is an excitement now surrounding these collectibles. Will paying these stratospheric prices translate into a sound long-term investment? History doesn’t suggest so.

More reasonable folks are buying a Nov 5 newspaper for $5 to $20 each. That should be the norm. Every dealer I talked to agreed. As the number of commemorative or special editions increases, the collector value down the road will not ever reach beyond the $2-to-(possibly)$10 range. None of the JFK assassination newspapers or magazines (except for a very limited few), for example, have ever attained any values higher than that.

As the inauguration of a new president approaches, there will be additional special editions and commemorative printings of national and local newspapers. The biddings will again be unrealistically high. All experts agree, including me, that you should buy the newspaper as a family keepsake, but pay only the newsstand price, if possible, or no more than $5, if necessary. The long-term-collectibles value will not ever be much higher if history is correct.

I urge everyone to be cognizant of collector value during special events such as this one. As time goes on and the initial euphoria fades, all manner of campaign collectibles will become available at much lower cost.

Does that mean the newspaper shouldn’t be collected? Absolutely not. Collectibility doesn’t have to be for monetary value only. Passing down historical newspapers through generations is a great way to learn American history firsthand. We are all fascinated by the ads alone showing the cost of items generations ago, for example.

But, preserve it correctly. Keep a complete newspaper in a clean, dry, acid-free environment away from fluctuations of heat and cold. That means wrapping the newspaper in acid-free paper, placing it in an acid-free box and placing the box in a closet or storage unit that faces toward the inside of the house, not against a wall that faces the outside. When taking it out, try to limit its exposure to all direct sunlight or any light for a long period of time.

Frame correctly

If you want to frame the front page, be sure to place the newspaper on an acid-free backing and behind an acid-free mat. It should never touch the glass directly. If you use UV glass, it will also help to keep damaging light from fading the newspaper over time. Place the frame away from direct sunlight or near a window and always on a wall facing inside, not one that faces outside.

To relive important events in your lifetime through a newspaper is a great way for future generations to learn what was important to you and to the country. After all, sentimental value is collectible, too.

By Tom Carrier, WorthPoint Worthologist, specializes in flags and political memorabilia

WorthPoint—Get the Most from Your Antiques & Collectibles

Helping people make money from their collectibles is WorthPoint’s mission. Founded in 2007, WorthPoint is an Internet-based data-and-media company that offers a vast database of sales records on art, antiques and collectibles. WorthPoint helps collectors understand the worth of their items and provides expert advice on how to preserve, buy and sell them.

The recommendations in this Survival Guide come from what I have learned through 40 years in the appraisal, antiques and auction industries. I have managed regional auction houses and have offered onsite appraisals for U.S. and international auction houses, and have seen several economic downturns. In these times, many people make the mistake of selling their prized collectibles and antiques for much less than they are worth because they haven’t thought the sale through. Before selling anything, you should consider the following:

Step 1. The first thing to decide is whether you need a licensed professional. Licensed professionals can help determine the true worth of your item, but they will likely charge you for an appraisal. Very few professionals will give free advice. So consider whether you think the value of an item warrants the cost of an appraisal. And make sure you let a professional know whether the appraisal is for insurance purposes or to aid in selling an item. This definitely impacts the appraised value.

Step 2. Get a second opinion. Do not take one person’s evaluation as the final word. Check with at least one other person who supplies similar services. You should plan to visit more than one store, auction house or pawnshop.

Step 3. Now log on and visit Internet sites that offer expert advice—there are a number of places online to help you determine the value of your item. For example, WorthPoint enables you to ask its Worthologist experts for a small fee, or you can query its online community for free. Remember, there is plenty of free online information, but as always, consider the source.

Look at your options

Step 4. Understand your options. If you have decided that you are going to sell an antique or collectible, consider all your options and ramifications. Are you going to be satisfied with the dollar amount you receive for the sale of your item? Seller’s remorse can be very stressful. Explore your options, weigh each carefully, then decide what to do. Just make sure you do not rush into something blindly—take a deep breath. Once you sell or pawn your item, the decision has been made. Be sure it is the right one.

If you decide to auction your piece, you need to understand how auctions work. Using auction houses is not a rapid process for selling high-value items. It may take 60 to 90 days before you see any money. Ask for an estimate of what the item will bring, read the auction contract, and do not sign it until you understand all the charges. Be clear about the commission rate. Find out if there are other charges, such as for insurance, photography, advertising, etc.

The pawnshop route

If you plan to go to a pawnshop, you must understand how pawnshops work. Fast cash is always going to be less cash. You will receive pennies on the dollar for your item, so you should know what you have and what it is worth before you enter the door. Use these venues as a last resort, and be aware of the terms. Read everything. How much will it cost to get your item back? Are you willing to give up the item for the amount you receive?

There is still the option of holding on to your piece as antiques and collectibles are good investments. Most of these items keep their value even while many stocks, commodities and other investments do not. When we are financially stressed, we often act in haste because we don’t have something to fall back on. Remember, high-end antiques are similar to blue-chip stock with one big difference—they aren’t making any more antiques like yours (reproductions yes, but not the real thing). High-end antiques may decline in price from time to time, but overall, they will retain and gain in value.

Step 5. Negotiate. You have more power than you think when it comes down to negotiations, whether you are selling at an auction, to a dealer or a pawnshop. Always ask for better terms, reduced rates or the dropping of add-on charges. The item is yours. You are the final decision maker not the auction house or pawnshop. You should always get a signed contract that states exactly what you understand the terms to be and neveraccept a verbal agreement.

Two Sides to Every Deal

Step 6. My mother always used to say there are two sides to a slice of salami. In this Survival Guide, I hope you consider buying as well as selling. The same rules apply for buyers as sellers. But in uncertain times, there are always opportunities. Now is the time to buy. The midrange market (which is most likely to fluctuate) is a gold mine of bargains. You can purchase some items in the midrange market for a fraction of what they cost five years ago.

You can also adopt a “Recycle/Go Green” attitude that can save you money while you enjoy the hunt for antiques and collectibles. There is no need to spend money for expensive new accessories and furniture (often made of particle board with photographic finishes), which almost immediately diminish in value. Instead, take advantage of the secondary market (auctions, used furniture and antique stores), and acquire items that often increase in value over time.

Step 7. Do your homework. Know the value of what you have. Remember, to win at this game, you have to at least understand what you have. Take a look at the more than two million historical prices from hundreds of auction houses on the Worthopedia, a free service on the WorthPoint site. If you are a professional, take a look at GoAntiques’ PriceMiner, where you’ll find more than 27 million historical prices. Few people have rare antiques, but many of us have items that are more valuable than we realize.

Please add your advice to the Survival Guide. Click on the “Add New Comments” button in the left-hand column.

Thom Pattie is WorthPoint’s chief Worthologist.

WorthPoint—Get the Most from Your Antiques & Collectibles

Editor’s Note:
WorthPoint is looking for people who are willing to discuss how the current economic climate is impacting them and who are willing to share their experiences with pawnshops, consignment sites and yard sales.

Please ad a comment to this article by clicking on “Add new comment” in the left hand column or email news [at] worthpoint [dot] com

A website dedicated to collecting model trains calls itself the “World’s Greatest Hobby,” and it isn’t hard to imagine why. Collecting colorful toy train sets is an old and respected leisure occupation. From the time trains arrived as transportation, train sets have been created and collected.

Model train sets range from life-like to O-gauge railroads which are much more toy-like in appearance. Their layouts including tracks, bridges, and entire towns replete with miniature people are known as “hi-rail” within the train collecting culture.

Lionel, Ives, and American Flyer are vintage brands of distinguished value. Trains range from antique and vintage to modern sets with high tech audio and scenery. There are a number of national and international collecting clubs. The most famous story of a train collection’s worth is that of Anthony Bianco of England who began collecting Hornby Dublo trains in the 1970′s. Christie’s values his collection in the hundreds of thousands with a pre-war electric set sold for $4,000.

Like any collectible, condition, brand, and demand play a role in market value. A great deal of time and energy can go into developing a model train set. Collecting valued pieces can be a lifetime of detective work.

Videographer: Scott Shactman
Editor: Alison Harder

WorthPoint – Discover Your Hidden Wealth

Videographer: Mary Brenneman
Editor: Alison Harder

WorthPoint – Discover Your Hidden Wealth

Recently, I attended my first National Auctioneers Association (NAA) conference after 40 years in the business, and what a treat! There, I exchanged ideas with fellow auctioneers and learned new tips and modern tricks about auctioning collectibles and antiques.

More than 1,500 attendees from the U.S. and abroad participated in the 59th International Auctioneers Conference and Show held in Nashville. Networking and clinics were the major focus of the conference, where participants had the chance to meet and share the business challenges associated with a declining economy and discuss tactics. The experience gave you the chance to realize you’re not the only one stuck in the pond without an inner tube.

At the conference, I was struck by how much technology has been a major focus in taking the auction community from the 20th to the 21st century. It’s easy to see how auction practices, production and education changed little over the years until very recently. The late 20th century brought about the most profound changes in more than 100 years. Yes, the electronic age with cell phones, computers and the Internet has made all the difference in the industry.

While being knowledgeable is the most valuable asset an auctioneer can have, you can’t be competitive without adding the electronic tools that are available today. Thanks to the digital age, an auctioneer can sell something in Kansas to a buyer in Bolivia or Barcelona with the click of a mouse, expanding the market worldwide, rather than the previous 100-mile radius limit for an auction.

Auctioneers are bringing the world of antiques and collectibles to you via the Internet and its associated technology. The National Auctioneers Association is the largest professional organization for auctioneers. This year’s conference reflected the state of the modern auction and methods available to its conductors. After 40 years of absence, I’m glad I made it to the show and was able to pick up some tips and maybe even some new tricks in the trade!

Vintage phones are popular for their nostalgic value and design. They’re the stuff of black-and-white movies and dime store sodas.

The cellular phone is one of the great inventions of our time because it has given us the freedom to communicate at will and keeps us mobile. Many of us remember waiting at home or at the office for an important communiqué. Now, it’s as if that were eons ago. Times have certainly changed, wherein now we can communicate with whomever, whenever; and even use our personal computers almost anywhere at anytime to tap into whatever kind of information we fancy.

With telephone technology at hyper speed – a cellphone without a camera and internet function seems grossly out of date, not to mention one without a color screen! – it is no surprise that old fashioned telephones have become quite collectible.

While antique telephones from as early as 1876 are novel collectibles, some of the most popular collectibles are from the 1960’s and 70’s. Because phones were more often rented before the break up of the AT&T monopoly in 1983, there’s a significant scarcity in vintage telephones. A Western Electric pay phone dating from the 1940’s recently sold for $13,000. Other popular collectibles are silver-dollar payphones and phones that date from the 19th century. A wooden “coffin” phone mounted on the wall of an historic farmhouse can compliment the decor quite nicely. People who restore their older homes often look for vintage phones to complete the interior.

Links:
www.oldtelephone.com
www.phonecoinc.com
www.thephonesource.com
www.andhowantiques.com

Don’t worry—we can help. Now it’s easy to find out what your treasured item is worth and sell it through a reputable auction house with the WorthPoint Consignment and Brokering Service.

For just 5% of the final proceeds*, WorthPoint’s expert Worthologists will walk you through every step of the auction process, including:

With the WorthPoint Consignment and Brokering Service, you’re never alone. You get personal support from knowledgeable professionals with decades of experience from the moment you get started. And even better, you’ll pay nothing for this invaluable support until your item is sold.

If you’re going to sell your unique collectibles and antiques, make sure you realize their full value. Work with WorthPoint and get what it’s worth.

For more information, contact WorthPoint Chief Worthologist Thom Pattie at (877) 734-7735 ext. 9020 or write brokering [at] worthpoint [dot] com .

* Item must be evaluated at $2,500 or more to qualify for this service.

The power of the past in design, desire, money, art, furniture and most everything else of value is echoed in reproductions.

If an item is collectible or desirable in the market place it has been reproduced! Both faithful copies and disastrous want to bee’s. The power of the market drives style, form and function. Every one wants to make a buck or to have what the Joneses have in one form or another.

If a collectible is worth something it has or will be reproduced.

Educate yourself before you buy! Read, ask questions and see examples that you can feel or touch. Remember the time period of the piece you are viewing,see what is out of place, the construction, the material and the quality of the craftsmanship.

Does it make sense that the chest is suppose to be from 1760 and it has circular saw marks on the back boards? Or the vase from 1820 has an applied paneled scene? Does it mean the Rose Medallion punch bowl is brand new if it is marked China on the bottom or that it was made in the 1890′s?

Learn about history and you can learn about reproductions and faithfully copies…

In the world of collecting, like in anything else, there’s a language used by insiders. From video gamers to traders in the stock market, talking the talk is half the battle. Whether collecting is your hobby or your profession, knowing how to navigate “collector speak” is a useful tool of the trade.

Lately, I’ve been blogging about terminology like “antique” and “rare.” Here, I’d like to de-mystify the use of “century” and time lines.

Referring to what century something is from, can be a bit confusing. Wikipedia defines century as follows:

According to the Gregorian calendar, the 1st century AD started on January 1, 1 and ended on December 31, 100. The 2nd century started at year 101, the third at 201, etc. The n-th century will start on the year 100×n – 99. A century will only include one year, the centennial year, that starts with the century’s number (e.g. 1900 is in the 19th century).

The collector’s rule of thumb goes like this. When referring to the century an item is from, you round up to the next hundred-year mark. If an item is from 1840, it is an item of the 19th century. A Stradivarius violin can only be 17th or 18th century, since they were only produced from 1690 to 1720. If an artwork is from the Renaissance period, dated 1550, it is a 16th century collectible. Though it was made in the 1500′s, technically, the item is from the 16th century. Why?

Well, if a coin was dated 50 AD, it would be from the 1st century AD, since it was in fact produced during the first one hundred years AD. If it was produced in the year 170 AD, it would be from the 2nd century AD. There’s no such thing as the zero-th century.

We count centuries in this way. The date of an item is expressed as the exact year, but the way of referring to its century is done in a “rounded up” fashion. We’re currently living in the 21st century, you likely live in a building built in the 20th century, and may drive a car from the 20th or 21st centuries. Your favorite records and movies probably date from the 20th century, but your favorite websites are likely 21st century creations.

In the world of collecting, like in anything else, there’s a language used by insiders. From video gamers to traders in the stock market, talking the talk can be half the battle.

Knowing the vocabulary and applying it can be a way to feel like you’re “in the know.” Last week I wrote about the term “antique.” In the interest of moving you into “the know,” the second blog of the series defines the term “rare.”

When a collectible is rare, its price goes up. “Rare” is a word used to denote scarcity. A rare item is uncommon or unusual.

The antique market works like any other market where price is determined by supply and demand. If an item is popular and there aren’t many of them to be found, the price rises. People want the item and there aren’t many of them, so, those who are able, are willing to pay more to get a hold of the thing. A limited-addition doll or watch or video game console, that is popular, can be sold on eBay for a higher price than the original retail price. Demand is high, supply is low, and the price favors the seller.

But just because you or your friends have not seen something before, or have only seen one or two of them, does not mean the item is rare.

Rarity is determined on an item-by-item basis:

A car made this year may be rare because there were only 500 of that model made.

A Roman coin used from the middle of the third century BC until the middle of the third century AD was in use for a remarkably long time. Even though it is extremely old – an item from antiquity – that coin may not be rare. It may be of little value because there are plenty of them around.

An item is rare if few exist in the world today. A one-of-a-kind item is the rarest and can bring the highest price on the market, given there’s a demand for it. If you have a one-of-a-kind molded sandwich, the likes of which no one has ever laid eyes upon, you have a rare molded sandwich but, since no one wants your sandwich, that rarity doesn’t guarantee any kind of value.

So rarity implies that something is difficult to get a hold of, or scarce. Rarity can add to the value of an already sought-after collectible, like a vintage car, well-known fine art, or a popular book. A rare book from the turn of the century, that was never popular in its own right, isn’t valuable. A rare painting by an unknown artist from the 19th century isn’t valuable. A lithograph of a Van Gogh, printed in limited number and well received by the public, would bring a high price. A first edition of Mark Twain’s Tom Sawyer is rare and valuable.

Rarity can add to value, but it isn’t a measure of value in itself. Rarity implies scarcity and can raise the price of an already valued item.

Click here for “Terminology !: What is Antique?” article

In the world of collecting, like in anything else, there’s a language used by insiders. From video gamers to traders in the stock market, talking the talk can be half the battle.

Whether collecting is your hobby or your profession, knowing how to navigate “collector speak” is a useful tool of the trade.

Terminology specific to the act of gathering cool stuff can be daunting at first. Once you grasp the basics, it’s simply an easy way to communicate about items and habits particular to collectibles. Knowing the vocabulary and applying it can be a way to feel like you’re “in the know.” In the interest of moving you into “the know,” I’ll be blogging about terminology for the next couple of weeks. For the first of the series, I’d like to break down the term “antique.”

Antique is a simple term but it’s often misused. Contrary to youthful opinion, “antique” doesn’t refer to a piece of furniture that smells of mothball storage and grandmothers.

So what makes an item an antique?

Legally, the term “antique” is an item 100 years old or older. To a purist, “antique” refers to an item made before the Machine Age, or earlier than about 1830. To the general public, “antique” refers to an item made before they were born.

Wikipedia says the definition of antique varies depending on the source, product or time period. Generally, antique refers to an item which is at least 50 to 100 years old and is collected or desirable due to rarity, condition, utility, or some other unique feature.

So there are many definitions. They allow people to make a distinction between genuine antique pieces, vintage items or collectible objects.

Basically, antiques are older than vintage items by about 50 years. The 1970’s beer sign is vintage, while the Coca-Cola sign circa 1917 is an antique. The Studebaker is a classic, vintage automobile, while the Ford Model T is an antique.

Antiques typically are more fragile than vintage items or collectibles and require more careful handling, storage and display. A 1960s vintage dress might be worn, while the silent screen starlet’s antique gown that tears easily is best displayed with protective covering of plastic or set in a frame.

The alternative term “antiquity” refers to the remains of ancient art and archaeological artifacts. “Antiquity” and “antique” are entirely different – by a few hundred years at least!

In collectibles, everything comes down to knowledge. The more you know, the better prepared you are for collecting. In buying and selling, understanding what the item is and where it came from is fundamental to learning its value on the market. If you don’t know what an item is worth on the market, it can cost you.

Learning about your item requires a grasp of the terms, starting with “antique.” It’s a measure of age, not odor.

Collecting dolls is a popular pastime among females young and old. From Raggedy Ann to Barbie, dolls are a part of growing up and often remain a part of the home through collections. A doll that has really made a splash in the media recently is the American Girl Doll. The American Girl Collection has gone beyond play and collecting to become a made for TV movie on the WB, a Disney Channel movie, a Nintendo video game, and a feature film.

The series was launched with three, 18-inch dolls from different periods of history. Each doll, in its way, indemnifies the American dream and comes with its own background story and accessories. The series has expanded since its inception, to include thirteen historic dolls total spanning 1764 to 1974.

American Girl Dolls are extremely collectible and are distinctive thanks to their high quality accessories and historically accurate dress. Each doll has its own miniature and books that tell its story. Each comes with trading cards and many have imaginative extras including detailed furniture and specialty accessories like puzzles, CD-ROMs, and even life size dress patterns. Some dolls or accessories have been retired which makes collecting that much more interesting.

An American Girl historic doll is priced at $87 in stores or catalogue. Outfits generally range in the $20+ and furniture items can be $100. Discontinued items are the real gems. An American Girl Doll issued in 2007 that has sold out and been retired lists for as much as $350 on Ebay. New-in-the-box Marisol was sold out and retired in 2005 and is currently listed at $200 on Ebay.

Oprah featured the latest American Girl Doll’s release on her show in November and the American Girl movie is slated for release July 2, 2008. It will star Abigail Breslin of Little Miss Sunshine fame and should be a boon to any collection of American Girl Dolls!

http://www.americangirl.com/movie/

An excellent website dedicated to the series is written by Curt Danhauser:

http://curtdanhauser.com/AG_Collecting/Main.html

Musical toys are some of the most sought-after audio equipment in avant garde music genres. This phenomenon has made primitive, electronic instruments into collectibles. In addition to the sheer novelty of collecting poor quality, low-fi objects, the idea of toy keyboards from the eighties as collectibles speaks to the high-speed rate of progress in audio. It also highlights an increasingly popular fun-loving approach to collectibles. What was a child’s toy twenty years ago is now a novel relic from the past; even though that past might be a part of the collector’s own recollection. Because audio technology has grown eons since the first electronic keyboards, a working toy Casio (or one of its knock-offs) can be quite collectible.

Casio was a Japanese electronics company and put out professional synthesizers from 1980 to 1992. They also made toy pianos that ran on batteries and were the stripped-down-versions of their adult counterparts. Toy Casios had synthesized drum beats – accessible at the push of a button and with tempo changes. The pianos also had limited recording capability and horn and guitar synth’ sounds. They had playback and “pitch bending” capabilities.

Toy keyboards are a popular, new collectible that can be used for recordings as well as for show. They speak to a time when mobile electronic audio was in its nascent stage; when playing a synthesizer was great fun for children and adults alike. Now those same children who gained in musical aptitude from playing with their toy casios have grown up and enjoy collecting!

Here’s a video of a music duo that combines a classical musical instrument, the harp, with the stylings of the retro piano:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=HVMOHJXYI8I

By nature people collect and accumulate based on need – food, clothing, and friends, for example, are necessary items that we gather and hold onto because we need them to get by. We also collect things we’d prefer to avoid, like bills, wrinkles, and worries. Sometimes we keep things when we’d do better to get rid of them; things that clutter our living space or our minds.

We also keep things that define us – items that bring joy and comfort in times of need. We keep photos and letters from loved ones, souvenirs from trips, certificates from hard-earned achievements, and other tangibles that reflect our time in our specific geographic location.

Collecting is an expression of one’s style – whether it be rare coins or tattoos, a collection distinguishes a person from others. It is an endeavor rooted in sentiment and taken on out of passion. Unlike so many elements of modern life, collecting is deeply personal.

Some collections are too personal to share – like photo albums or love letters. Some are impossible to share by design – scars from time playing sports, tattoos, or gold crowns come to mind!

Many collections are meant to be shared or passed on to others who may enjoy them. When organized and maintained, a collection of baseball cards or miniature dolls can be a family heirloom. Art, jewelry, or wine can be the family inheritance.

Collecting can be an exciting form of investing or it can be an expense. Whatever the monetary value placed on a collection, collecting is a natural and interesting facet of the human experience. A collection is a pleasure that says something about the collector and connects him to others with the same passion.

Recently, a historical document made big news when it surpassed all estimates at auction. Sotheby’s conducted the sale of the sole, privately owned copy of England’s Magna Carta. This landmark, 13th-century document was auctioned-off to Carlyle Group founder David Rubenstein, for $21.3 million. Billionaire Ross Perot was the previous owner of the highly historic document. The document represents the rise of due process over monarchal authority.

While a historic treaty is not easy to add to a home collection, documents, seals, and historic maps have long made for fine collectibles. Official documents are a great piece of history and are often housed in museums or institutions like the Library of Congress. Private collections of newspapers to deeds to wartime letters can document a community as it moves through history.

According to sales on Ebay, currently of particular interest in the world of historical documents are classic car titles. A 1949 Studebaker Pickup title is being listed at $250 as a piece of automotive history. Decrees signed and sealed by a state’s governor can also make for an interesting collectible – especially in the case of historic legislation or when the political figure is of special significance.

The Hard Rock Café, Inc. owns the original lyrics of many popular music hits. These official documents are on display in their restaurants and hotels and are highly valued collectibles.

From the Declaration of Independence to the Rolling Stones biggest hits, original documents can make for exciting collectibles.