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Persian Lamb is a beautiful fur. It’s warm, rather sturdy and can be sporty or dressy. It comes in different curl patterns, depending on the age of the lamb from which it was taken. So why can’t you find it anymore?
The answer is, you can, if you are willing to pay couture prices to buy the designer goods which incorporate the different types of Persian Lamb. There have been stories of Persian Lamb being a cruel fur because it required the killing of a pregnant ewe in order to get her unborn lamb. That is debatable; however, these stories have made it a less acceptable fur to wear. For those who admire and wish to acquire Persian Lamb, vintage is the way to go.
Persian Lamb is a beautiful fur. It’s warm, rather sturdy and can be sporty or dressy. It comes in different curl patterns, depending on the age of the lamb from which it was taken. But this one is faux, although the collar is white mink.
Persian lamb was very popular from the early 20th century until about the 1970’s, with the popularity waning a bit after that. It was still found trimming suits and coats; however, full Persian Lamb coats were not easily found after that time, hence the value of a vintage Lamb coat.
There are many vintage coats around, usually dating from the middle of the last century. But, there are also many manufacturers who developed fabrics that mimic the genuine article pretty well. Many people are fooled by the faux furs, and even those who sell vintage clothing are often not experts in the field and simply believe what they are told when they buy the garments from estates.
The term “Persian Lamb” can refer to many different types of lamb fur, sometimes called Astrakhan, Karakul or Broadtail. All of these refer to lamb, but at different ages after birth (or even before, taken from stillborn lambs). The type I will address in this article is the curly type, which is taken from the lambs when they are about 10 days old.
Faux Persian Lamb is easy to spot, if you know what you’re looking for. This is another example of a faux fur coat with a mahogany mink collar.
Faux Persian Lamb is notorious for being passed off as real. The very first Persian Lamb piece I ever (mistakenly) bought was faux fur, and I quickly learned how to tell the difference. I have even seen real and faux furs all labeled as genuine fur in a vintage store, simply because so many people just don’t know how to tell which is which. When I told the owner how to test it, she refused to look and said I was wrong, so I most certainly did not buy from her. An on-line seller once told me that Persian Lamb was shorn from the live animal and then sewn in a curl pattern on a fabric backing, so that’s why, although he “found the fabric between the curls, as I said he would, the coat was definitely real Persian Lamb.” I’m afraid he was in denial about how furs are made.
There is a lot of misconception out there, so to find out if the fur is genuine or faux, read on.
If you are buying a fur from a shop, do the following (or if shopping online, ask the seller to do these tests and look for these things):
- Look at the fur under a strong light and part the curls with your fingers. If you see a woven black fabric between the curls, it’s faux fur. Real Persian Lamb has a smooth hide, which is covered with the hair, and the curls will be much harder to part. The curl pattern on a faux fur will appear to be too uniform, indicating it to be machine-made, while real fur has a much more random pattern of curls.
- Next, beware if a seller claims a lamb coat has absolutely no flaws at all. Persian Lamb will nearly always have a bit of edge wear at the back of the neck, cuffs, pocket edges, front edges and around fasteners. The wear will appear to be ivory-colored hide showing through where the fur has worn off. There will usually be tiny areas where the curls have split from the hide, showing ivory-colored skin in little spots (which can be repaired by dabbing with black leather dye).
- Finally, a faux Persian Lamb fur is rather lightweight, while the real thing usually weighs a ton.
Genuine Persian Lamb looks like the example on the left, while the example on the right is faux Persian Lamb with a faux fur collar.
Sometimes you will see a coat with tiny, nubby curls, and the seller or price tag may also state “Persian Lamb.” This is not fur at all, not even faux fur, but a wool fabric called “boucle.” This was a very popular fabric in the 1950’s, often called “Poodle Cloth,” but it is also confused with Persian Lamb.
I can look at a picture and instantly know if it’s real or fake. I can also pick one up without looking at it and know the same. If you are interested in Persian Lamb, you can learn this too, but you must do the tests and compare before you buy. Faux fur has its merits, but you should not buy unless you know which one you are getting. Good selling points in favor of the faux fur are that you don’t have to keep it in cold storage, it’s cheaper to clean, it’s sturdier and you can wear it in the rain.
Be aware that the faux Persian Lamb coats are usually accented with rabbit fur collars, while the real ones are made with mink collars (although there are exceptions). The faux Persian Lamb jackets you will find with the label “A Winter Product” almost always have a black Rabbit collar, black velvet buttons with loop closures and no furrier’s label. Sometimes this style has no label at all.
This little cropped coat is a common example of a faux Persian Lamb product.
This little cropped jacket (above) is very common, and you will see yourself coming and going in it, so I only recommend this if you want something to wear running around town. The care label, which you will never find in a real fur, will state “Clean by Furrier Method Only, no Steam.” If you see that, you can be sure it’s not a real fur. Many people misunderstand this label and think “Furrier Method” means it’s real, while it actually means that the fur should be treated as if it were real. The names “Safari,” “Sportowne,” “Borgana” and “Miracurl” are a few of the most widely-known names of manufacturers and designers of faux fur garments.
These are examples of labels of faux Persian Lamb products. They often say “Clean by Furrier Method Only, no Steam,” which is true; this is how to treat a faux Persian Lamb product. But that doesn’t make it genuine Persian Lamb.
Isn’t it funny how a fur that has become so unpopular could be so greatly sought after in a faux fur version? It seems that people really do want the look of Persian Lamb. After reading this article, I hope those of you who wish to have the real thing can now identify it, acquire it, wear it and love it. I know I do.
Sharon Maxwell-Yamamoto is a Worthologist who specializes in vintage clothing and accessories.
WorthPoint: Get the Most from Your Antiques and Collectibles.
Tags: fake Persian Lamb, faux Persian Lamb, Persian Lamb coat
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Thank you for the interesting article. I do like persian lamb. Does vintage have value?
Very interesting! I do have a real Persian lamb coat that belonged to my grandmother, and you’re right – it weighs a ton! Since my grandmother was smaller and much shorter than I am, the coat does not really fit me well. I was considering having it altered, but would that compromise it’s real value? Any comments?
Alice, vintage Persian lamb is not terribly valuable, but depending on its condition, a coat can cost about $150 or so.
Ann (I think that’s what that tiny name says), if altering the coat will make it wearable, then go ahead and do it. A good furrier can re-style any fur coat that has pelts in good enough condition. If that doesn’t work, having it made into a nice big muff-purse with matching hat is a fun idea, or using some to trim another coat to match the muff and hat! Cute! If the coat is a designer label, like Schiaparelli, better to leave it intact and sell it in an online auction.
Just thought of another thing, Ann….if you need an appraisal of the coat or an opinion on restyling it, you can “Ask a Worthologist” here on the site.. You will need to send pictures and they will assign the question to me.
Take care!
I just bought a full lengh coat from a flea market. It is all Persian Lamb without any other type of fur collar or cuff. I found a stamp on the underside of the hide.
H Basch & Co.,Inc.
Lammoire
Hammer Brand
Union
Do you know anything about this? Any history about it?
The Hammer Brand is the Registred Trademark of Herman Basch Co. and if you have the Hammer Brand Stamp on your Persian Lamb it is the real deal.
First let me say that I appreciate your articles. They are very helpful and answer so many questions. Now, I have a question for you. I have an amazing faux leopard coat with the Fairmoor Safari label you have pictured in this article. The coat just fell into my hands. I know nothing about it. Would you please tell me when this line of faux fur was produced and perhaps a little something about the company that manufactured this product? I was also wondering if you had any ideas about what these coats are worth. I was so delighted to see these Fairmoor labels because I had never heard of this company before. Thank you so much for the most helpful information that you pass on to us.
I just bought a persian lamb jacket with a white/grey fur collar at a thrift store with a label that reads “Astrakan Made in France styled by Lepshire”. Based on your article I think it might be fake because the curl seems too uniform, the lining is rayon not silk, the furrier label says “A fashion from Hein’s”. There’s a stamp on the underside of the hide but is’t very legible except for FRANCE. What do you think? Thanks in advance.
My grandmothers persian-lamb coat was recently passed down to me. Based on the information in this article, I believe it is real Persian lamb. The label says:
Toronto Furs
K Bouyotonoulos
1 Philhellinon Str.
(Constitution Square)
Athens – Greece
The coat is interesting because there is no mink collar – the collar is persian lamb. Also, there is a zipper that runs along the hem of the coat where I can add it’s extension piece to make the coat longer.
It doesn’t fit me but not sure how much it may be worth. Would like to know this before I would attempt to cut into it and make a purse, etc….
Any comments or suggestions? Thanks
Thanks to all for your comments! If you need specific information/valuation, please go to the Ask a Worthologist section! Thank you!
DivaSharon
Hi
I have just been given a jacket. I wonder if you could shed any light as to value etc on what details I am about to give.
The coat is black, with a mink collar.
The rest I am told is UNBORN LAMB FUR.
The jacket was made in New York in the 1950s for a lady by the name ERICA, her name is embroided on the silk lining inside the jacket.
It has a fur label authority label in it with a serial stamp/code or what seems to be.
I know it is not faux as one of the seems running from the elbow is open and its hide.
Does this sound like any special at all?
Many thanks, josie
HI Josie,
Please go to “Ask a Worthologist” and you will be able to submit pictures to get an appraisal. Thanks for using Worthpoint!
I was just given a (pre-owned) persian lamb jacket. There are a few gaps where some of the wool has pulled away from hide. A (Russian) seamstress who I use for various alterations and who says she is very skilled at repairing furs, etc. said that she needs “mink tape” and/or glue to repair. Does this sound correct? She said she would go in behind the lining to repair. Where do I find “mink tape”? Thanks for your comments……..I wouldn’t have a clue…..
Hi Vicki,
I have searched for the answer and I’m sorry to tell you, I have never heard of mink tape. Maybe it’s a different term in Russian and she’s giving you a direct translation…? I’m so sorry I can’t help you on this one! If you find out, do tell me so I can learn something too! Thanks and good luck.
Sharon
I don’t know what she used to repair jacket and she wouldn’t tell me………trade secret I guess. However, to my “nonexpert” eye, she has done a beautiful job. She missed a couple of spots which is no big deal because I can always take it back. She told me she used to work with minks in Los Angeles.