Even though this is a small set in number, being it is the one of the first issued in 1948 it does include many rookie cards of various Hall of Fame players such as Stan Musial, Yogi Berra, Phil Rizzuto, Warren Spahn, Ralph Kiner, Red Schoendienst and Bobby Thomson. As a first set issued in the post war era, unlike many other firsts in the hobby, this is not a very popular set among collectors. I think the popularity of the set is lacking only because of the short span of time the Bowman Company produced baseball cards, which went from 1948-1955 before Bowman was bought out by the Topps Company (Topps issued its first set in 1951). Collectors still have great interest in the main cards and top rookie cards in the set, but set collectors are far less on this set compared to others.

Stan Musial rookie card from the 1948 Bowman set, in excellent to near mint condition, have sold as high as $700.  A Musial card in mint condition can sell for thousands of dollars to the right collector.

Cards from this set range in value. Cards in excellent to near mint condition that feature common players generally sell between $25 to $40 per card, but the top rookies in the same condition can bring as much as $700. A Stan Musial or Yogi Berra in excellent to near mint condition have sold as high as $700, while players like Warren Spahn, and Bob Feller generally bring about $300 to $400 in the same condition. Like all collectibles, if a Musial card is in mint condition, it can sell for thousands of dollars to the right collector.

This set, for the most, part depicts snapshots of players from the waist up or close-up type photos. And, as mentioned above, all are black & white. It seems the company selected what it felt were a couple top players from each team for this set, as there were at least 10 times the that number of players in professional baseball at that time. My thought is they wanted to experiment with the concept of issuing baseball cards in individual packs with bubble gum and see if there was a market for this with the kids of the time.

The 1948 Bowman cards were smaller than standard sized cards, measuring 2-1/16 inches x 2-1/2 inches in size.  The backs of the cards are printed in black ink on a gray stock and include the card number, player name, team position and a short biography.

Storing your treasured cards is always important to in keeping them in the best possible condition. The best storage is hard or semi-rigid holders that hold the card in place inside the holder and doesn’t easily break or bend if dropped or handled and does not contain any PVC. Even the very slightest nick or scratch on a card can significantly decrease its value so keep them in top condition so you can realize the best possible value for your collection.

As for this set, the level of difficulty in collecting the whole set is not very high. If it is a set that appeals to you, then collecting the whole set in at least mid-level grades is as very easily attainable goal, and in comparison to other sets from this era, is relatively inexpensive.

WorthPoint: Get the Most from Your Antiques and Collectibles

The grading of sports cards has become a widely accepted method for verifying a card’s condition and authenticity. Grading was first introduced to the hobby in 1991 by Professional Sports Authenticator (PSA) of Newport Beach, Calif. PSA is a company spun off from Professional Coin Grading Service. It was first thought having an independent firm grading sports cards would do more damage to the hobby than help. However, by now, many have found it to be the basis for trading all sports cards of value.

To grade a card, you send it to a third-party company for authentication and state its condition. This company does not buy or sell cards as a business and is independent and credible.

Grading has many aspects. If any type of alteration to a card is evident, the card will be either rejected or placed in a holder without a number grade. In the second case, it will be noted that while authentic, there is “evidence of trimming,” that it has been “altered” or something similar. Unlike other hobbies, where cleaning or restoration of the collectible is widely accepted, in the sports card area, there is no allowance for any type of modification to a card. It must be exactly as issued to be graded.

The sports card industry has four accepted grading companies and in order of recognition, are usually ranked PSA first, then Sportscard Guaranty (SGC), Global Authentication Inc. (GAI) and Beckett. All are independent companies that strictly grade and authenticate sports cards, other types of cards and sports memorabilia. PSA is the oldest and most widely known. They are experts in all areas of the field, but it is SGC that is widely recognized for its special expertise in 19th-century cards and collectibles. This isn’t saying the other companies aren’t good, but SGC is considered by many to be the most knowledgeable in 19th-century material. Beckett is popular for grading newer (1980-present) sports cards, and GAI is very reputable in all areas.

These companies vary in their philosophy, history and approach. PSA was the first on the market. Many people collect just PSA cards, so the company has that edge. Beckett was the first to use true half-point grading ranging from 1-10 and is one of the last to enter the grading market. New card collectors seem to like the half-point grading. SGC uses a 1-100 scale that is equal to the half-point system, though I just feel it took people a while to get use to that system, thus giving Beckett the edge in new-card gradings. PSA, because of its longevity, and GAI have strong expertise in pre-1969 cards. To go one further, if choosing 19th-century cards, SGC would be first, PSA second, GAI third and Beckett fourth.

Grading a card can add great value to your collectible. At first, most people assume that one would grade just the star players, such as Mickey Mantle, Babe Ruth, Ty Cobb and so on, but there is great potential for grading the common players in each set, too. Each of these companies have what they call a set registry. Collectors can register their sets and compete against others for top spots (highest-graded cards) in each year. Card sets have been produced since the late 1800s, so collecting everything would be extremely expensive. Some collectors pick a year and set out to get the best card in that set.

How does grading increase sports card value?

You may ask how can a card increase significantly if graded? Well, with all the online auctions, major auction houses and very strong prices of rare sports memorabilia and cards, third-party grading gives buyers confidence that they are getting what they are paying for. I notice a significant difference in prices realized when selling a graded card in comparison to a similar ungraded card. The reason, I think, for grading midgrade cards is that cards on a 1-10 scale will grade 3-6 because a buyer doesn’t have the card in front of him or her when bidding. But if the card is graded a 5 by a reputable company, the bidder would know what to expect condition wise and be confident there are no hidden faults with the card. In other words, peace of mind is usually why cards in these grades bring higher money at auction.

Meanwhile, for cards graded 7-9, especially 8s and 9s of cards pre-1969, the card grade adds value in that the buyers know they are not only getting a high-quality card, they are also buying cards that are considered investment grade and have potential to increase in value.

Cards graded 9 and 10 bring top prices because they are usually the best of the best and the population (another factor in prices) is very low. The population is the number of cards in a particular grade in comparison to all the cards being graded. One example is if there are 2,000 of a certain card graded, and there are 3 graded 9 and 2 graded 10 and the rest are 8.5 and lower. When a 9 goes up for auction, it is not only being sought after by investors, but by people seeking to get the highest graded for their set in that year.

Ultimately, though, it comes down to supply and demand. I have seen common players from 1955 (and many other years) that would have a value of $15 if not graded, sell for as high as $4,000 graded as a 9 or 10. It isn’t because the producer made fewer such cards, it is just because getting one in a high grade is very difficult.

The most popular example of this I can use is a 1952 Topps Andy Pafko, card #1. Usually cards #1 and the last card of a set are tough to find in good condition because they are damaged from being on the top or bottom of a pile, have rubber-band marks and so forth. This particular card is worth about $500 in midgrade condition, and if graded up to the equivalent of a 4.5 grade, would sell for about the same price of $500. It’s when you get into high-grade examples that the price soars. Recently, this particular card graded an 8 sold for $81,000. It is a tough card in high grade, and set collectors along with investors are aggressively after it.

There are many cards that sell for 20-100 times their value when graded and in high grade. I could list hundreds of cards, but the main factors in determining high values for cards of players that aren’t major stars is the population of the card in the grade desired, along with the number of people collecting that set or player. You can have a very low-population card in high grade that won’t necessarily get a very high price if the set the card is from is one that is not popular with collectors. In that case, even though there is a low supply, there is just as low, if not lower, demand for it.

Again, while many star players in high grade bring high prices, it isn’t just the major stars that are increased in value by grading. The same is true for many common player cards. As with all hobbies and investments, investing in sports cards should be thoroughly researched before jumping in with two feet. Pick the areas of collecting and having your cards graded that suit your needs and desires.

Grading has many variables

To sum it all up, grading has many variables—the card, population of the card once graded and credibility of the grading company. I am not saying any one company is better than any other. Still, overall results show that if you take a pre-1970 card in the same grade but in the four different holders, chances are the PSA would get the highest price, SGC second highest, GAI third and Beckett fourth. Meanwhile, on post-1970 cards, it would be a close call between PSA and Beckett for top prices, SGC would be next and GAI last. I think this is just a matter of grader preference.

I have included pictures of miscellaneous cards that have been graded by the top four grading companies so that you can see what they look like in the various holders. There are more than these four companies, but the value of other companies’ high grades in comparison to these vary greatly. These four are considered the most credible companies in the industry. So saving a couple bucks and getting cards graded elsewhere will reflect greatly on the prices you can realize.

I noted the ratings by era not to confuse people but to show the different types of collectors and their preferences. This is an arbitrary rating, but I feel most would agree with the order I placed them by era.

While grading your cards can greatly increase your collection value and give it much more appeal to a potential buyer, it can also be very costly if you don’t get the grades you expect. So as noted above, proceed with caution, and always consult a professional for assistance so you don’t end up spending money on grading and not get any benefit from the service.

While prices for the basic living necessities keep rising faster, the market for high end baseball cards seem to be growing more and more. Unlike when times were tough back in the early 1980’s when high end sports cards prices were at their lowest, this time around the baseball card market is just the opposite.

Then and Now

In the early 1980’s, when economic times were tough, prices of the highest valued cards fell and caused many dealers of that time to go out of business, or not see enough profit to afford to stay in business. The market right now in comparable economic times is booming. Recent major auction house prices for some of most recognized baseball cards continue to set record prices. To use 1 prime example, the 1952 Topps Mickey Mantle card #311 (see image); back in the late 1970’s/early 1980’s, this card in near mint/mint condition sold for $1,500. It wasn’t easy to find a buyer at that price either. Recently a PSA graded near mint/mint 1952 Topps Mickey Mantle sold at auction for $98,177.13 , passing one previously sold for $96,000.

A Sound Investment

The market for high-end baseball cards has grown to the point of being a sound investment and I think that is why we are seeing the opposite effect from the early 1980’s in the sales of quality cards. Back in the 1980’s it was almost impossible to name three cards that would sell for over $10,000. Today, you can come up with thousands of cards that would sell in excess of $10,000 in this market.

Of the cards for players that are recognizable (Babe Ruth, Lou Gehrig, Joe DiMaggio, Honus Wagner, Ty Cobb, Mickey Mantle, Roberto Clemente, Willie Mays, Hank Aaron, etc), all have cards of value in excess of $10,000. There are many other cards that are not recognizable by most that come from early production, such as various tobacco cards produced in the late 1800’s where you got a baseball card in a pack of cigarettes or chewing tobacco. Many of these cards have not survived the course of time, thus making them rare.

Paying Top Prices

Collectors and investors have been paying top prices to obtain the rare and big name player cards in the best condition possible. In my opinion, this is part of the reason for the sound investment in baseball cards. Their track history of value has proven to increase, plus the fact that you have a hard asset in your hand. If you invest in 10 shares of a companies stock you have a piece of paper that says you own 10 shares, not really something you would want to display in your house, but if you have Babe Ruth card (see image), it is something you not only invest in but take pride in showing to others. Aside from the investment factor having cards of favorite player’s fuel interest in the history of the game, it may bring back childhood memories, and keeps an ongoing interest in the current players for future investment.

Collecting Types

Many people do not see how collecting high-end baseball cards are an investment, but as long as there is some type of sentimental value attached with certain cards/players, the desire to own their favorites will never die. True card collectors who want to own many cards usually steer more toward mid-grade cards, by that I mean they buy cards that would rate 3-6 on a scale of 10, that way they still get a reasonably nice looking card and can afford more of them. Generally, the true collector is not looking for investment, then the true collectors with the ability to own the best will buy cards from the 7-10 range, but more likely the 9-10 range if such cards are available to them. It is the collectors that love the hobby, but just can not afford to buy much due to everyday living costs eating up their budget, they usually buy the cards graded 1-3 range, they still have the card they desire and surely not looking for investment purposes.

The investor on the other hand strictly is looking for the highest graded cards of the best sets on the market, for example a 1933 Goudey Babe Ruth card (pictured PSA 4) would be an investment card but more so in grades 8-10, they are very hard to find in that condition and highly sought after. The one pictured is a nice clean card, still has investment potential but will not see huge increases in price as would one graded 8 or even a 9.

As economic times get tough I see collecting cards to be a good solid investment because of the emotional attachment to the hobby/sport, the fact that you have an item you can display and still holds a good value. You will know that a particular card, what ever it may be, will not be filing for bankruptcy. The board of directors will not be producing more of them, and as time progresses other copies will be destroyed due to natural disasters and people not knowing what they have and discarding them. Just like in other collectibles markets like coins, comics etc. baseball cards produced in 1933 are just that, from 1933 and not reissued as authentic, as more and more disappear from circulation, the value has kept rising and given the track history of the last 20 years baseball cards have seen major increases in value far exceeding that of most stocks, bonds, and commodities.

With the investment history being sound and the fact that you have an original card in your possession when the stock market or economy is not allowing investors to increase their portfolio’s investing in hard assets has become very popular. As stated above, when a specific card is destroyed the value of the surviving ones increase, when a stock certificate is destroyed, another original can be obtained, additionally any board of directors can vote for more shares to be made available, sports cards are only replaceable by purchasing another copy but it still leaves one less available in the market

Any Market is a Good Market for Collecting

I am not saying for everyone to go out and buy baseball cards and look to get rich or that they all go up in value, like all hobbies and investments the card market has its ups and downs. Thorough research and education should be obtained to insure you are buying items that meet your needs, if for investment be sure you consult with experts to assist you, if for collection purposes an experts assistance is always good, collecting cards in both booming and staggering economic times can still be fun and rewarding, you just need to proceed with caution and enjoy the hobby. My next article will focus on grading sports cards and what it has done for the hobby, till then enjoy the hobby.

There’s a smell in the air on certain Spring mornings which reminds me of an ice cream truck that used to roll by my Grandparent’s house in the late 70′s. The other kids poured out of their homes for ice cream, but my Dad always treated me to a pack of ’78 or ’79 Topps cards.

I remember the fateful morning at my other Grandparent’s house when my Dad and my Uncle completed a “deal” whereby my Uncle claimed all of the baseball cards from when they were kids, my Dad got all the Stamps. Dad became a pretty extensive stamp collector through the 1980′s, while Uncle Rick became a baseball card dealer at the start of that decade–man, those were fun times to be involved with baseball cards!

By the mid-80′s my Uncle paid me a wage to help work his tables, and soon after he gave me a couple of feet of space to sell my own cards. I used to help him out at a monthly live auction held in hotels on Long Island as well and I’d get to insert 8-10 lots myself.

I started doing card shows myself in 1989, graduating full-time in 1991 before throwing in the towel in ’93. I was vintage, though little by little I found I had to add some new items to get sales. After that I disappeared from the selling circuit for awhile, finished college, got a job, and discovered eBay in early 2000.

The competition with sports collectibles on eBay was pretty hot at that time, so I can now say it was with a bit of luck I won a mixed lot that included some movie star fan photos from the 1920′s.

Movie collectibles have been my area of specialty since about 2003. My site is filled with Photo Identification Guides of rare and collectible movie cards and collectibles, especially ephemera. I also have a section on my site dedicated to magazine collecting, an area which allowed me to deal with both sports and movie items as well as other items of interest such as literary appearances and coverage of historial events.

I’m a full-time dealer again since 2004 when I left that post-college job. In that time it’s been all early movie collectibles and magazine back issues. It’s been fun.

But I digressed quite a bit there. Anyway, my roots were relevant during that interview with Will Seippel because I found myself smiling at mention of card number 311 and then started shouting “Eddie Mathews!” at my computer screen as he tried to recall card number 407.

That’s the kind of involvement I like! I signed-up for WorthPoint recently on the tails of the initial GoAntiques announcement. I must admit I was intrigued. After listening to the interview tonight I found myself both inquiring about an item for sale here as well as requesting more information about being a Worthologist. Hopefully I can see both of those inquiries to fruition.

Looking forward to hanging around here a lot in times to come!

Cliff Aliperti
things-and-other-stuff.com

In past blogs, I have talked a lot about baseball card collecting as a hobby for example my post about starting a baseball card collection. We all know how exciting it can be to start a collection and grow it over the years. However, not everyone views baseball card collecting as a hobby. Some see their card collections as investments that will one day earn them a substantial amount of money. They choose the cards they purchase carefully. In fact, collecting cards for investment purposes is similar to playing the stock market.

• Know the Next Big Thing- We have all heard the success stories of individuals who bought stock in Microsoft or Apple back when almost nobody knew who they were. If you’re collecting cards as an investment, you’re always on the lookout for the next big thing flying under the radar. Recently, I blogged about some rookie cards I believe could be valuable down the road. They may not earn you as much as buying Microsoft stock 20 years ago, but you could earn a pretty penny if you get lucky. According to our own Worthologist Howard Lau, “The current market can be good for investors if they can pick the right players. For example, Jay Bruce & Josh Hamilton would have been a good investment had they been purchased back in 2005.”
• Buy At the Right Time- Just like playing the stock market, collecting baseball cards for investment purposes requires you buy at the right time. You don’t want to get caught up in the hype surrounding a baseball card only to find the card drop in value after the trend is over. Instead, you want to be the person who buys the card when it’s low in value so you can sell it once the frenzy hits. Which brings me to my next point:
• Sell High- Baseball cards are similar to stocks in the way they rise and fall in value. A lot of times, companies will release gimmicky error cards when they publish their new sets. Some of these cards become very hot for a short period of time, selling for large sums of money. However, a year later most of these cards won’t be worth the cardboard they’re printed on. If you see what you believe to be a short term trend, you should sell the card at its peak to get maximum value for it. Always be careful, because the bottom can fall out very fast, and the card will plunge in value. The rule is simple- buy low and sell high.

If you are collecting cards as an investment, you need to know how to store them properly. Read my post about storing baseball cards.

The 1909 Honus Wagner antique card is a 2½-by-2 inches tobacco card issued by the American Tobacco Co. The card stopped being produced in 1911 when Honus Wagner demanded the company cease its production. To this day, it’s still unclear exactly why production was halted. Whether it was because Wagner didn’t like children buying cigarette cards or because he wasn’t being compensated properly, the result is his card is more rare than any other.

During its lifetime, the most famous Honus Wagner card has seen an array of owners. A few baseball collectors and even hockey great Wayne Gretzky have owned this card for a short time before deciding to sell it. Most recently, this piece of baseball history sold for well more than $2 million making it the most valuable baseball card by a long shot.

In recent years, more T206 Honus Wagner cards have come to light. Of course, some of them are forgeries by con artists looking to make a quick fortune. However, some of them have been real, but they weren’t in as good condition as the most popular one. Even still, these less-than-mint cards have sold for several hundred thousand dollars each.

Exceptional card, exceptional player

Beyond its rareness, another reason the Honus Wagner tobacco card is so valuable is Wagner was an exceptional baseball player. He and Ty Cobb were the two best players of this historic era of the game. During his career, Wagner won eight NL batting titles. He averaged over .300 for his entire career, and he hit .344 during his rookie year. Additionally, Honus Wagner was one of the first five players inducted into the Hall of Fame. In short, Honus and his antique tobacco card are legends in both the world of sports and collectibles.

Here are some tips for starting a collection although you shouldn’t count on ever having a Honus Wagner in it.

Still, by taking the right steps, investing in sports collectibles can prove profitable.

Eric Bratner is a baseball fan and freelance writer living in Houston.

Baseball relic cards are essentially the same as a normal card with one major difference. The card contains a piece of game-used memorabilia. For instance, the card may have a tiny square of the player’s uniform affixed to it. Or perhaps the card company will place a piece of a game-used bat on the card. These relic cards come packaged in with a normal set of cards, and they have created a new trend in card buying. Go to any store that sells baseball cards, and you will probably see some card enthusiast feeling up packs of cards. They do this because the packs containing relic cards are slightly different in weight than the typical packs.

Personally, I enjoy relic cards not just for their value, but also for the fact that they’re like owning a piece of baseball history. If the card companies truly are placing game-used memorabilia on the cards, then you own a piece of material that was used to shape a portion of the game’s great history. Sure, it’s not the same thing as owning an actual jersey or a pair of game-worn cleats, but for the modest collector, it’s pretty close.

While most relic cards are fairly similar to one another, last year a set of three cards was issued that stood apart from the rest. Three George Washington DNA relic cards were issued by Topps Allen & Ginter. These DNA cards contained pieces of the first president’s hair. If you can get past the creepiness factor of having a dead person’s hair on your baseball card, the idea is actually pretty cool. In fact, I’m surprised Topps took the chance of some unknowing kid throwing the card away when it issued them to the general public.

At last check, the first of the three cards had been discovered by a collector in Arizona. It was placed in an online auction where it was set to fetch thousands of dollars. With the mainstream media frenzy this card received, you can rest assured Topps Allen & Ginter will have some interesting collectibles cards coming out in the future. Let’s hope the company doesn’t go with anything too creepy.

If you are just beginning your collection, you might want to start by reading my earlier posts:

“How to Start a Baseball Card Collection”

“Where to Find Baseball Cards”

“How to Store Your Baseball Cards”

Identifying the Cards
The first step to cleaning out your baseball-card collection is identifying the cards that don’t suit your needs. Whether it is a duplicate or perhaps a card that just doesn’t flow with the rest of your cards, you should set all of these items aside. Keep in mind, a few good cards surrounded by a bunch of filler is not a worthwhile group. Much like the exercise programs we all start at the beginning of each year, the goal of your spring-cleaning should be to trim the fat.

Know the Price
After identifying the items you no longer need, it becomes necessary to research their value. The Worthopedia guide helps collectors identify the worth of all of their collectibles. Just because a card doesn’t fit into your collection doesn’t mean you shouldn’t get full value for it. For this reason, you should make a list of all the cards you no longer need and the value you expect to receive for them.

Trading Baseball Cards
One popular method of cleaning out a baseball-card collection is trading the unwanted cards with friends or other collectors. It’s like the old saying goes, “One man’s junk is another man’s treasure.” In other words, the cards that you no longer want might be the perfect fit in another’s collection. Likewise, the person you are trading with could have some cards that are more suitable for your set. For instance, I prefer collecting older cards, so I could trade my newer cards to someone whose collection focuses around modern items.

– Find Your Desires When beginning the trading process, the first step is to identify cards in the other collector’s set that you desire. These should be cards that you can incorporate seamlessly into your collection. You don’t want to acquire more cards that you will end up not wanting in a few months from now.

– Negotiate Until You’re Happy Trading baseball cards is a long process that involves a lot of negotiation. It’s similar to the trading procedure that takes place in the sport. Teams bargain with one another until they arrive at a deal that satisfies both parties. This is why it is necessary that you research the value of your items that are up for trade. You want to ensure that no one takes advantage of you. Both traders must add in the right pieces to sweeten the deal for the other because negotiation is a two-way street. You have to be willing to give to receive.

– Finish the Transaction After you arrive at a deal that you are happy with, it is time to finish the deal. Exchange the cards, and make sure that you and the other collector are both satisfied. Take the steps necessary to store your cards in a safe manner. You should also organize them in a manner that is consistent with the rest of your collection.

Enjoy Your New Collection!

Doesn’t it feel good to have a nice, clean collection? I always enjoy sprucing up my collection by trimming the fat and injecting some new life into the set. Trading cards really makes the whole collecting process much more fun, and it can create some new bonds with other collectors.

The first step to beginning a baseball card collection is determining the amount of money you want to devote to the cause. Children obviously have much more limited funds than adults, so the scope of their collection might be a bit more limited. The good news is that a collection can be started with even the smallest sum of money. Baseball cards can be found at very affordable prices, if you know where to look. For instance, I acquired the bulk of my collection from a local flea market and from trading cards with my friends at school. Baseball cards are everywhere; you just have to keep your eyes open.

As a child, the growth of my baseball card collection was directly proportional to the allowance I received from my parents. Take note parents- a good way to teach your child the value of money is to give them an allowance and encourage them to pursue a hobby. If they are passionate about that hobby, they will go to extraordinary lengths to protect their valuables. While I was taught the importance of financial prudence at a young age, as all children should be, my parents also understood the significance of being devoted to a hobby. A hobby requires commitment, teaches children the value of money, and provides an alternative to mind numbing video games and troublesome friends.

Therefore, every week, whether it was at a flea market, a garage sale, or a card shop, I sought out baseball cards, within the boundaries of my budget, that I could use to supplement my collection. Access to a pricing guide is a good thing because you want to ensure that you don’t overpay for a card. If a dealer thinks you are a novice who has no concept of a card’s value, he will try his best to get a large amount of money out of your pocket. Purchasing baseball cards is a process that requires knowledge and the ability to negotiate. Don’t ever be intimidated by one of these so called expert dealers. Remember, they are trying to maximize their profits. If you don’t feel comfortable with a price, let them know.

This leads to the second step of beginning a baseball card collection, choosing a focal point. Rather than sporadically acquiring baseball cards that have no relation to one another, most collectors prefer to build their collection around a central theme. Sometimes collections are focused on individual players, teams, or time periods. My collection began with a strong focus on Nolan Ryan. Since I lived within walking distance of his hometown, it was only natural that he was my favorite player.

Anytime I saw a Nolan Ryan card that I didn’t already own, I would do everything in my power to acquire it. I would trade cards with my friends, do extra chores around the house, and beg for advances on my allowance so that I could get that card bearing Nolan Ryan’s image. Whether it was cards from his early days, special editions commemorating a no-hitter, or the Nolan Knows Bo series, I slowly acquired everything I could. Note the word “slowly.”

Baseball card collecting is a slow process that takes a long time to develop. Just keep your eyes open and remain committed, and you will find the right cards to enhance your collection.

With the spring season fully in swing, there is no better time to do some cleaning of your baseball cards collection. Admit it, you have a few cards in your collection that you don’t like, don’t want, and don’t need. Remember, the best collections are the ones that are focused and organized so the occasional spring cleaning is necessary for the appearance of your set.

Part 1- How to Start a Baseball Card Collection

Part 2- Where to Find Baseball Cards

Identifying the Cards

The first step to cleaning out your baseball cards collection is identifying the cards that don’t suit your needs. Whether it is a duplicate or perhaps a card that just doesn’t flow with the rest of your cards, you should set all of these items aside. Keep in mind, a few good cards surrounded by a bunch of filler is not a worthwhile group. Much like the exercise programs we all being around this time of year, the goal of your spring cleaning should be to trim the fat.

Know the Price

After identifying the items you no longer need, it becomes necessary to research their value. The Worthopedia guide helps collectors identify the worth of all of their collectibles. Just because a card doesn’t fit into your collection doesn’t mean you shouldn’t get full value for it. For this reason, you should make a list of all of the cards you no longer need and the value you expect to receive for them.

Trading Baseball Cards

One popular method of cleaning out a baseball cards collection is trading the unwanted cards with friends or other collectors. It’s like the old saying goes “One man’s junk is another man’s treasure.” In other words, the cards that you no longer want might be the perfect fit in another’s collection. Likewise, the person you are trading with could have some cards that are more suitable for your set. For instance, I prefer collecting older cards, so I could trade my newer cards to someone whose collection focuses around modern items.

• Find Your Desires- When beginning the trading process, the first step is to identify cards in the other collector’s set that you desire. These should be cards that you can incorporate seamlessly into your collection. You don’t want to acquire more cards that you will end up not wanting in a few months from now.

• Negotiate Until You’re Happy- Trading baseball cards is a long process that involves a lot of negotiation. It’s similar to the trading procedure that takes place in the sport. Teams bargain with one another until they arrive at a deal that satisfies both parties. This is why it is necessary that you research the value of your items that are up for trade. You want to ensure that no one takes advantage of you. Both traders must add in the right pieces to sweeten the deal for the other because negotiation is a 2 way street. You have to be willing to give to receive.

• Finish the Transaction- After you arrive at a deal that you are happy with, it is time to finish the deal. Exchange the cards and make sure that you and the other collector are both satisfied. Take the steps necessary to store your new cards in a safe manner (click here to learn more about storing your baseball cards.) You should also organize them in a manner that is consistent with the rest of your collection.

Enjoy Your New Collection!

Doesn’t it feel good to have a nice, clean collection? I always enjoy sprucing up my collection by trimming the fat and injecting some new life into the set. Trading cards really makes the whole collecting process much more fun, and it can create some new bonds with other collectors.

Today basketball trading card sets are issued by a wide variety of manufacturers. Collectors also must contend with draft card series, special rookie cards, insert or chase cards and super premium card sets. Keeping up with contemporary issues is time consuming and expensive. As a result, many collectors focus only on pre- 1990 issued cards.

References: James Beckett, “The Official 2000 Price Guide to Basketball Cards, 9th Edition,” House of Collectibles, 1999; “Sports Collectors Digest,” “1999 Standard Catalog of Basketball Cards, 2nd Edition,” Krause Publications, 1998; Tuff Stuff (eds.), “Tuff Stuff’s Complete Basketball Card Price Guide & Checklist,” Antique Trader Books, 1998.

– Harry L. Rinker

“Official Price Guide to Collectibles”