– SB, Shillington, Pa., via e-mail

https://www.worthpoint.com/askWorthologist/index

ANSWER: When Ana Bissell, who, with her husband Melville, owned Bissell and Sons, a small crockery shop in Grand Rapids, Mich., had trouble sweeping the floor when the workday ended, she asked her mechanically inclined husband to design a carpet sweeper to solve the problem. Bissell patented his sweeper in 1876, building his first manufacturing plant in Grand Rapids in 1883. When Melville died in 1889, Anna assumed control of the company, reputedly the first female CEO in American history.

Anna added new products to the company’s line, such as multi-purpose carpet formula shampoos and commercial grade sweepers and expanded business worldwide. As a result of its acquisition of Woolite Carpet and Upholstery, Bissell remains one of the leading American producers of sweepers, carpet supplies and related products.

Although I was not able to find the date when Bissell first introduced its “Bisco-Matic” and Vintage branding, I did find examples dating back to the 1930s for sale on the secondary market. Bissell still makes a Vintage model carpet sweeper today.

The color and lettering style on your sweeper suggests 1950s or early 1960s. Reuse is the primary secondary market for these sweepers. Older Bissell carpet sweepers sell in the $1 to $5 range at garage sales. Wooden body examples, used primarily for conversational/decoration purposes, are priced between $25 to $35 at flea markets and antiques malls.

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QUESTION: I have statuette of the Sherwin Williams chameleon logo. What is its history and value?

– CA, via e-mail

ANSWER: Henry A. Sherwin, a Vermont native, moved to Cleveland in 1860. In July 1866 he invested $2,000 in Truman Dunham & Company, an importer and distributor of home decorating supplies including paints, varnishes and related materials. In 1870 Sherwin, along with Alanson T. Osborn and Edward P. Williams, formed Sherwin & Williams, a partnership, and assumed control of Truman Dunham & Company’s retail operations. By 1873, Sherwin & Williams was manufacturing oil colors, paint and putty. Two years later, the company introduced ready-mixed paint. In 1882, Osborn struck a deal whereby he gained control of the retail operation while Sherwin and Williams assumed full ownership of the manufacturing and wholesale operations. [For a detailed Sherwin Williams history, visit the company’s web site.

During a trip to China, Sereno Fenn, the first company treasurer, was captivated by the color-changing chameleons. Upon returning to America, he shared his observations with Henry Sherwin. Sherwin was intrigued. In 1885, Sherwin introduced the chameleon on a painter’s palette as the company’s official logo. Jake, one of three chameleons from India kept by the company, often posed for advertising photographs. The Chameleon, the company’s newsletter, was introduced in 1897.

In the early 1890s, George W. Ford, the company’s one-man advertising department, drew the first pencil sketches for what would become the Sherwin Williams “Cover the Earth” logo. The sketch underwent numerous revisions. Ford and Henry Sherwin had reservations about the logo. The first test occurred in 1893 when the “Cover the Earth” logo was used on a poster promoting the company’s Worcester, Mass. store It was well received. The company replaced the chameleon and palette logo with the “Cover the Earth” logo in 1905.

TRIVIA QUESTION: When most individuals think of the “Cover the Earth” logo, they picture the paint pouring over the North Pole. It is not. Over what point on the earth is it pouring?

While the safe assumption is that your chameleon statuette dates between 1885 and 1905, it can be later. As seen from the newsletter title, Sherwin William kept the chameleon concept/image alive long after its “official” status ended.

In researching this question, I found two listings for an early 1900s, cast-iron, three-dimensional chameleon doorstop in the WorthPoint Worthopedia. Both listings attributed the doorstop to Sherwin Williams, one seller noting: “The Company had these cast iron chameleons created to give away and sell for advertising. They were put out in different sizes, some imprinted with the company name, some with long curling tails, some with shorter, stubbier tails, some with stripes, some with spots. They were painted in a variety of striking Sherwin-Williams color choices.” However, neither doorstop had the Sherwin Williams imprint. The prices realized for the two doorstops were $116 (greenish-gray body) and $279 (dirty yellow body).

I also discovered a metal paperweight (6 inches by 4 inches, oval base) of a chameleon sitting on top of an artist’s palette. The oval base reads: “SHERWIN WILLIAMS CO. PAINT / COLOR MAKERS / CLEVELAND, CHICAGO, NEW YORK, MONTREAL, AND BOSTON. Its value with strong period paint is in the $250 to $300 range.

I was not able to find any listings for a statuette. Since no image accompanied your e-mail, I answered based on the assumption you have either the doorstop or paperweight.

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QUESTION: I own Ms. Giddee Yup, one of Mattel’s Gorgeous Creatures. It is still in its window box. The doll is 7½ inches high. What is its value?

– JD, Modesto, Ca., via e-mail

ANSWER: In 1979, Mattel issued a series of four Gorgeous Creatures—Cow Belle (dark brown hair and blue gown), Heavenly Hippo (red hair with yellow jump suit and transparent skirt), Ms. Giddee Yup (blond curls and silver dress), and Princess Pig (blond hair, magenta colored gown). These dolls featured animal heads on female bodies. They prove beyond a shadow of a doubt that beauty is truly in the eyes of the beholder.

The Gorgeous Creatures could be posed thanks to movable arms and legs. Each came with boyfriend’s picture in a frame, gown, hanky, hat, shoes and stole. The body design allowed girls to mix and match the clothes.

Each doll had a theme. Princess Pig’s theme was “At the Restaurant,” the box noting that Princess Pig loves snacks. Ms. Giddee Yup was dressed for a night at the opera.

For whatever reason (good taste obviously played a role), the Gorgeous Creatures dolls lasted only one sales season. Given the fact that most survive in their window boxes, few young girls who received them as gifts were tempted to play with them.

Examples without the window box sell between $4 and $6. Examples in the window box bring $12 to $15.

For those who argue that the 1970s was a period of exceptionally bad taste, these dolls ended the decade on a high note.

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QUESTION: My husband is a retired carpenter/cabinetmaker. He wants to sell his vast collection of hand tools, some dating from the late 1800s. How do you recommend that he do this?

– T, Reading, Pa., via e-mail

ANSWER: Much depends on the quality of the tools in your husband’s collection. If he bought the tools primarily for use, seek out a local auctioneer who has a reputation for getting good tool prices. Buyers purchase the majority of tools as well as other items sold at auction for use.

If he is like most collectors, your husband bought his tools from a relatively small number of auctioneers and dealers. He can approach one or more of these individuals to review dispersal options. However, he must avoid allowing a dealer to cherry-pick (selectively buy) from the collection. The collection should be sold as a unit.

If your husband’s tool collection was assembled for collecting purposes, the middle- and high-end material should be sent to a specialized tool auctioneer. The balance can be sold locally. Although this advice seems counter to the previous paragraph, it is not. Collections require a different sales approach than objects whose value is primarily re-use.

Two tool auctioneers whose sales I track are Clarence Blanchard, president of Antique & Collectibles Tools and who owns Fine Tool Journal and Brown Auction Services (27 Fickett Road, Pownal, ME 04069) and Martin J. Donnelly (PO Box 281, Bath, New York 14810). In a recent conversation with Martin, he noted that antique tools did not experience major price decreases over the last five years as did many other collecting categories. Further, many antique tool collections assembled by Baby Boomer collectors are now entering the marketplace.

Blanchard and Donnelly sell primarily in New England and the Middle Atlantic States, tool collecting hotbeds. While there are tool collectors scattered throughout the United States, Canada and abroad, there are regional concentrations. Selling well often involves not only selecting the right sales source but location as well.

TRIVIA QUESTION ANSWER: Cleveland, Ohio, the center of the paint universe.

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Rinker Enterprises and Harry L. Rinker are on the Internet. Check out Harry’s Web site..

You can listen and participate in Harry’s antiques-and-collectibles radio call-in show “Whatcha Got?” on Sunday mornings between 8 a.m. and 10 a.m. Eastern Time. It streams live on the Genesis Communications Network.

“Sell, Keep Or Toss? How To Downsize A Home, Settle An Estate, And Appraise Personal Property” (House of Collectibles, an imprint of the Random House Information Group), Harry’s latest book, is available at your favorite bookstore and via Harry’s Web site..

Harry L. Rinker welcomes questions from readers about collectibles, those mass-produced items from the 20th century. Selected queries will be answered on this site. Harry cannot provide personal answers. Send your questions to: Rinker on Collectibles, 5955 Mill Pond Court SE, Kentwood, MI 49512. You can e-mail your questions to harrylrinker [at] aol [dot] com. Only e-mails containing a full name and mailing address will be considered. Please indicate that these are questions for WorthPoint.

Copyright © Rinker Enterprises, Inc. 2011

WorthPoint—Discover Your Hidden Wealth

The one question that I get asked over and over whenever I’m doing a show is: “How do you get your linens so clean?” The answer is not very exotic: A lot of soaking and patience! Antique and vintage linens require gentle care, but in most cases, can be used and enjoyed for years to come.

Soaking and washing will clean most linen quite nicely. Occasionally, there will be a spot or stain that just won’t come out. In that case, all you can do is accept it as part of the piece and think of it as adding character. Often, a stain can be minimized so that it doesn’t distract from your enjoyment of the overall piece.

Antique Linen Damask Monogrammed Tablecloth or topper:  A wonderful old piece of damask linen, offered for sale by Victorian House Antiques on GoAntiques.  The piece is noted to be 28.5 x 34 inches, and is in good condition with only one spot.  That spot might be able to be soaked out.

Cotton and linen damask tablecloths and napkins, damask and huck towels, sheets and pillowcases should be soaked in lukewarm water mixed with Biz or Oxy-Clean. Although Oxy-Clean is fairly new to the market, Biz has been around for years and is an old laundry staple. Don’t be afraid to let the items soak for hours, even days. Check the item to see if the stains are still there, mix a fresh solution and soak again. I’ve soaked items two and three times until the offending stain or spot was either gone or reduced enough that it didn’t detract from the piece.

Sears Linen and Cotton Table Cloth and Napkins 1936 Ad:  A Sears ad shows damask table cloths and napkins and their prices in 1936.  Antique linen can still be used today if you take care and wash carefully.  The ad is courtesy of GoAntiques dealers Charles & Phyllis J. Wille.

Both Biz and Oxy-Clean are great at getting out all kinds of stains. I’ve even removed red wine stains from a tablecloth with Oxy-Clean. However, never soak any fabrics with rayon, silk, wool or metallic threads in either stain cleaner. Also, if the item has any colored embroidery on it, go cautiously. A lot of early embroidery threads were not colorfast, particularly, the reds, blues, and purples. Start with cold water and watch it. If any color appears in the water, immediately remove the items and rinse in cold water. If the water stays clear, let it go a little longer, but keep an eye on it. If after awhile, you don’t see any discoloration in the water, the thread is probably colorfast.

Carefully remove linens and textiles from water. The weight of the water can pull and stretch the fabrics or even tear them. Many old fabrics are very fragile when wet. It’s best to use an old towel as a sling to pick items out of the water. Never wring old textiles or linens. Gently roll them in an absorbent towel to remove the excess water.

Once you’re done soaking, rinse the item in water until the water is clear. Damask and linen textiles can usually be put in the washing machine in cold water on a delicate cycle. Use a mild detergent, such as Ivory. Any pieces with intricate handwork, such as drawnwork, or lace should always be gently handwashed.

Sun bleaching is another method for cleaning linens. This is a technique that dates back generations when grass fields in Europe were known as bleaching fields. I’ve never had the opportunity to try this, since my yard is full of trees with no large sunny areas. However, I’ve heard great success stories from many textile experts and collectors who have used this technique. After soaking an item, rinse and wash it, and then lay it out on green grass in the sun. This works particularly well with damask and huck tablecloths, napkins, towels and sheets. A few cautions: Colored tablecloths and linens will fade in the sun, and watch out for birds, insects and roaming neighborhood cats and dogs.

Huge Damask Huck Linen/Lace – Towel:  This beautiful antique towel, made from cottage damask huck linen and adorned with hand-made lace, also listed by Victorian House Antiques on GoAntiques, is listed as in excellent condition, with a few faint spots.

Chlorine bleach should never be used except in rare instances as a last resort. Bleach is very harsh on delicate fabrics. I never soak an entire piece in bleach. On a few occasions, when all other attempts have failed, I may spot-treat a stain with bleach. Bleach pens are good for this. I’ll do this only on sturdy white fabrics, such as damask or huck. After treating the area, be sure to rinse the entire piece thoroughly. I would rather have a small spot than a hole in a nice vintage or antique textile.

Rust stains are some of the toughest to remove. Whink, a rust spot remover, often works. However, this is a strong chemical, so read the label carefully and use sparingly. A paste made from lemon juice and salt may also work. Often, rust is one of those stains that you have to learn to live with.

Once your linens are clean and fresh, hang them to dry. I don’t recommend a dryer because the high temperature can be hard on delicate or old fabrics.

Wonderful linens and textiles should be used and enjoyed. I have hand-crocheted pieces from my great-grandmother that I cherish despite a few spots and worn areas. She was a prolific crocheter and would be thrilled to know that her pieces had been passed down and were still being used and enjoyed rather than stored in a drawer. Unless it’s a rare museum piece (in which case it should probably be in a museum), don’t be afraid to display and enjoy your collection and heirlooms.

WorthPoint: Get the Most from Your Antiques and Collectibles

(Pittsfield, Mass.) – Four auctions featuring a galaxy of quality antiques, collectibles and vintage clocks are slated for the first half of 2009 by Fontaine’s Auction Gallery. An antique estate auction will be held Saturday, Jan. 10; a cataloged antique auction will be held Saturday, Feb. 7; another cataloged antique auction will be conducted Saturday, April 4; and vintage clocks will reign on Saturday, May 9.
“If these auctions turn out to be anything like the ones we had in 2008, they’ll be great,” said John Fontaine of Fontaine’s Auction Gallery. “We’ve been very busy, securing consignments and getting ready for a banner year in 2009. I know the news regarding the economy generally isn’t good, but we’ve done very well in spite of it all. When you offer quality merchandise, people will bid on it.”
The Jan. 10 antique estate auction will begin promptly at 11 a.m., with a preview that morning from 8-11. The sale will feature over 500 lots of antiques and accessories from prominent local estates. Items will include early American, Victorian, Arts & Crafts, custom mahogany, period Empire, carved oak furniture, sterling silver, art glass, paintings, Tiffany, Handel and Pairpoint lamps, clocks and more.
The cataloged antique auction slated for Feb. 7 will begin at 11 a.m., with previews on Friday, Feb. 6, from 10-5, and Saturday morning, from 8-11. Featured will be 500 lots of fine antiques, in an array of categories. Sold will be high-end Victorian, custom mahogany, figural carved R.J. Horner, period Empire, rosewood Rococo and early American furniture.
The sale will also include over 100 pieces of Arts & Crafts furniture and accessories by Gustav Stickley, L. & J.G. Stickley, Limbert and Stickley Brothers. There will also be a selection of Arts & Crafts metalwork and pottery by Roycroft, Grueby, Rookwood, Fulper and more. Over 50 lamps will be sold, by Tiffany, Handel, Pairpoint, Moe Bridges Wilkinsen, Jefferson, Chicago Mosaic and more.
Rounding out the Feb. 7 sale will be art glass and cameo glass, KPM porcelain plaques, fine bronzes, marble statuary, oil paintings and hundreds of accessories. The second cataloged auction, on April 4, will feature a selection of laminated rosewood furniture including an outstanding “Rosalie” marble top table by John H. Belter; a selection of R.J. Horner furniture featuring a 10’ figural carved oak grandfather clock, a massive figural carved oak sideboard with curved beveled curio cabinets, and a great oak dining room set with full carved cherubs, also by Horner (circa 1885).
In all, 500 lots of quality antiques will cross the block. The auction starts at 11 a.m., with previews on Friday, April 3 (10-5) and Saturday (8-11). Another session was recently added that will see 80-100 lots of antique firearms come under the gavel. “We sold a few vintage weapons at one of our recent multi-estate sales,” Mr. Fontaine said, “and it resulted in some wonderful consignments.”
On May 9, Fontaine’s will hold a two-session Spring Antique Clock Auction. Already consigned is a Howard #61 astronomical regulator. Two of these coveted clocks were sold in previous Fontaine’s auctions. One went for $195,500 in June, while another example went for $189,750 in November. Also to be sold in April will be a Howard #70 clock with 20-inch dial, in the original finish chestnut case.
The Saturday, May 9 event will be split up into two sessions. Beginning at 10 a.m., a Discovery Session will feature many uncataloged clocks. Bidders are required to be in person at the gallery to preview and bid, as these clocks will be sold as-is. Then, starting at 1 p.m., the Main Catalog Session will commence. Offered will be many cataloged antique and rare clocks, to be sold in numbered order.
The centerpiece of the sale promises to be the Howard #61 astronomical regulator. The original owner of the clock, A.F. Robertson, was a lifelong craftsman in the art of watchmaking. In 1861, at age 16, he began to learn his craft under Louis Spaulding, formerly with the Waltham Watch Factory in San Francisco. He moved to Minnesota six years later and started his own jewelry business in St. Cloud.
The clock to be sold in May was purchased by Mr. Robertson for his store in the 1860s. The front glass pane read “A. F. Robertson.” In 1907, he moved to Harlowton, Mont., where he founded the Robertson Jewelry Firm. He lived there until his death. Two of his four sons continued to operate the business. One of them, William, changed the “A.F.” on the glass to “W.A.”, where it remains today.
The Robertson family took great care of the clock over the years, setting it on a protected custom pedestal in the store and keeping meticulous maintenance records. This continued up until William’s passing, in 1971, and with his niece, Betti, and her daughter (the current owner). “The provenance on this clock is impeccable and every record is intact,” Mr. Fontaine commented.
In addition to the Howard #61 astronomical regulator, approximately 500 other clocks – many of them rare, museum-quality pieces – will come up for bid on May 9. Fontaine’s is still accepting quality consignments for this and the other auctions slated for the first half of 2009. Clocks of every style, type and maker – provided they are vintage and collectible – are wanted for the May 9 auction. There will also be a music box session as well as a pocket watch session.
Fontaine’s Auction Gallery conducts all of its sales in a spacious gallery facility, located at 1485 West Housatonic Street in Pittsfield, Mass. The firm is always accepting quality consignments for future sales. To consign an item, estate or collection, you may call them directly, at (413) 448-8922, or e-mail them at info [at] fontaineauction [dot] com. To learn more, you may log on to www.fontainesauction.net.

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Suggested cut lines:

Howard #61 Astronomical:
This rare and coveted Howard #61 astronomical regulator clock will be sold at the May 9 sale.

Horner dining set:
Carved cherub from an R.J. Horner carved oak dining set (circa 1885), to be sold at the Feb. 7 sale.

Antique firearms:
Over 80 antique firearms, some of them exceedingly rare, will be offered in the April 4 auction.

Winged griffin sideboard:
Phenomenal winged griffin oak sideboard by R.J. Horner, with carved crystal cabinets (Feb. 7 sale).

Belter Rosalie table:
Outstanding “Rosalie” marble-top table by John H. Belter in exceptional condition (Feb. 7 sale).

Howard #70 clock:
Howard #70 clock with 20-inch dial, in the original finish chestnut case (May 9 Spring Clock Auction).

In the world of collecting, like in anything else, there’s a language used by insiders. From video gamers to traders in the stock market, talking the talk can be half the battle.

Whether collecting is your hobby or your profession, knowing how to navigate “collector speak” is a useful tool of the trade.

Terminology specific to the act of gathering cool stuff can be daunting at first. Once you grasp the basics, it’s simply an easy way to communicate about items and habits particular to collectibles. Knowing the vocabulary and applying it can be a way to feel like you’re “in the know.” In the interest of moving you into “the know,” I’ll be blogging about terminology for the next couple of weeks. For the first of the series, I’d like to break down the term “antique.”

Antique is a simple term but it’s often misused. Contrary to youthful opinion, “antique” doesn’t refer to a piece of furniture that smells of mothball storage and grandmothers.

So what makes an item an antique?

Legally, the term “antique” is an item 100 years old or older. To a purist, “antique” refers to an item made before the Machine Age, or earlier than about 1830. To the general public, “antique” refers to an item made before they were born.

Wikipedia says the definition of antique varies depending on the source, product or time period. Generally, antique refers to an item which is at least 50 to 100 years old and is collected or desirable due to rarity, condition, utility, or some other unique feature.

So there are many definitions. They allow people to make a distinction between genuine antique pieces, vintage items or collectible objects.

Basically, antiques are older than vintage items by about 50 years. The 1970’s beer sign is vintage, while the Coca-Cola sign circa 1917 is an antique. The Studebaker is a classic, vintage automobile, while the Ford Model T is an antique.

Antiques typically are more fragile than vintage items or collectibles and require more careful handling, storage and display. A 1960s vintage dress might be worn, while the silent screen starlet’s antique gown that tears easily is best displayed with protective covering of plastic or set in a frame.

The alternative term “antiquity” refers to the remains of ancient art and archaeological artifacts. “Antiquity” and “antique” are entirely different – by a few hundred years at least!

In collectibles, everything comes down to knowledge. The more you know, the better prepared you are for collecting. In buying and selling, understanding what the item is and where it came from is fundamental to learning its value on the market. If you don’t know what an item is worth on the market, it can cost you.

Learning about your item requires a grasp of the terms, starting with “antique.” It’s a measure of age, not odor.