This Bakelite bangle, circa 1930-42, is in a gorgeous shade of green. This bangle is most unusual in that has along the entire top of the bangle, medium sized faux pearls, 8 of them, set into the bangle in an abstract fashion.

Once you have decided you want to start collecting vintage Bakelite jewelry, you need to get started somewhere. And the best advice is to start off slowly and carefully. It helps, of course to have some basic knowledge of the history of this wonderful era of collecting. There are many exceptional books on vintage Bakelite jewelry readily available, which are a most useful resource. We have been dealing in vintage Bakelite jewelry for well over 25 years and truly believe that it is never too late to start collecting, wearing and enjoying vintage Bakelite jewelry. This form of vintage plastic jewelry is indeed a wonderful tribute to the designs contributed from the Art Deco era.

The Art Deco period began with the end of the Art Nouveau period in approximately 1920 and continued through 1935. During this era, the most accessible and collectible jewelry of the era was plastic. Now, the word “plastic” and the word “jewelry” do not seem to go together for many people, but they do, if you are an avid collector of Deco jewelry—in Bakelite—the colorful fun jewelry that is so fashionable to wear.

We are of the opinion that this is the ultimate in costume jewelry, as it is worn completely for effect; to enhance the “costume.” Rather than being spurned as it was for many years, it is worn today in the spirit of colorful fun for which it was intended. In addition, when searching for Bakelite jewelry, one can find some fabulous examples of great design work in the harder-to-find pieces that have made their happy way to the collectible’s market.

This Bakelite bangle is in the fabulous “saucer” style with very deep Art Deco carvings in a gorgeous and rich butterscotch color.

When beginning to collect Bakelite jewelry, certainly do not believe that you have to start off with highly carved and costly pieces. This is not the case.

So, you say you like Bakelite, but don’t quite know what it is. Well, at its core, Bakelite is a phenolic resin that was cast into tubes or rods and carved sheets by machinists. It was invented by Dr. Leo Bakeland, for which he obtained a patent on July 13, 1907, and there was an almost immediate demand for it. Soon, there was no end of household items, kitchenware, games, toys, electrical insulators and, of course, jewelry, made of this material. It was intended for the masses. Most Bakelite jewelry production ceased in 1942, coinciding with America’s entry into the Second World War.

Bakelite jewelry was sold in the 1930s and early 1940s in such noteworthy United States department stores as Sears, Saks, B. Altman’s and Bonwit Tellers. There were well-known designers—such as Van Cleef and Arpel, Channel and Lalique—who even produced items using this material. Remember, this was in the midst of the Great Depression, and the bright and durable Bakelite items were an instant hit with all, as it was a relatively inexpensive way to add some color into one’s life. The Queen may not have worn Bakelite at the time, but, as we recently learned, the royal yacht Britannia boasted furnishings that had Bakelite trim.

Another vintage Bakelite bangle is carved very deeply in a rich and deep cream corn color.

It can be a truly awesome and confusing experience when beginning one’s search for that first piece of vintage Bakelite jewelry. As with all vintage and collectible jewelry, time creates scarcity. But there is much to choose from. Often, you can find Bakelite in brick-and-mortar shops, at antiques shows and flea markets, and on the Internet.

Beware Fake Bakelite

But one needs to beware, as there are many Bakelite “imposters” being sold, commonly termed “Fakelite.” In the marketplace, Fakelite has come to mean plastic jewelry that is newly manufactured from materials such as phenolic resin and are manufactured and crafted, with carvings and all, to resemble vintage Bakelite. In so many instances, Fakelite is being misrepresented and portrayed as vintage Bakelite, and it is certainly up to the individual buyer to determine if these pieces hold any aesthetic value, so one must be prudent when shopping for vintage Bakelite.

We believe that while “copying” is the best form of flattery, we are dismayed that there is a “cottage industry” that has been created with the production of Fakelite. We recommend that the best item to start collecting vintage Bakelite is with the Bakelite bangle. These run the gamut from highly carved and wide to thinner, non-carved spacer bangles. The highly carved Bakelite bangles tend, of course, to be higher in price. While these carved bangles are truly spectacular and striking, featuring exquisite workmanship, this may not be the place to start if you are working with a “Bakelite budget,” as one can always upgrade.

This vintage Bakelite bangle is deeply carved in a rich and delicious chocolate brown.

Because the colors of vintage Bakelite are like a box of Crayola crayons (most having oxidized over the years to darker tones), wearing several thinner spacer bangles can be just as striking, less costly and just as effective for the beginner collector as wearing a wide, deeply carved and chunky Bakelite bangle. These will cost you less and soon you will still be the proud owner of a collection of vintage Bakelite bangles. As time and budget permits, one can always purchase a wider, carved bangle, wearing the spacer bangles on either side for yet a different vintage fashion look.

Take the Bakelite Test

When you have decided that you want to join the Bakelite jewelry hunt, you must be armed with knowledge and be assertive; and ask questions of the dealer(s) you are considering making a purchase from. Inquire if the item has been positively “tested” for Bakelite and what test had they utilized. Authentic vintage Bakelite, when run under very hot water, will yield a strong smell and most pieces, when rubbed with 409 household cleaner or Simi-chrome polish, will turn a Q-Tip yellowish. Additionally, vintage Bakelite jewelry will have no seams, so check the inside of the bangle carefully.

We always utilize these basic testing methods to ascertain that we are selling an authentic vintage piece of Bakelite jewelry. We are also aware that the fake items being presented in the market have been “treated” in such a way that they may pass the basic Bakelite tests. As one continues to collect the real thing, practice will make perfect. To be certain you are not buying Fakelite, we recommend that you purchase only from reputable, experienced dealers until you believe you are ready to go out on your own and search out Bakelite at flea markets and antique shows. Feel free to ask questions of any vintage Bakelite dealer regarding an item and enjoy the thrill of collecting vintage Bakelite!

An Art Deco sterling and red Bakelite brooch.

While starting with bangles is the safest way to begin you Bakelite collection, you should overlooked Bakelite brooches, bar clips and dress clips, as they are indeed a vintage fashion complement to the bangle and are extremely versatile. Brooches can be heavily carved or simple, and bar pins are equally attractive. Dress clips and brooches can be worn in a variety of ways and in a variety of angles, and the wearing of both items together complete any outfit makes a presentation that cannot be beat: a total Bakelite “look!”

Good luck ting your vintage Bakelite jewelry collection, and happy hunting!

— Linda Grossman and Evelynne Roth

Evelynne Roth and Linda Grossman have been mother-daughter Bakelite jewelry dealers for more than 25 years. Evelyn is an authority on Bakelite, having collected Bakelite for more than 40 years. Together, they operate Evelynne’s Oldies But Goodies.

———————————

WorthPoint—Discover Your Hidden Wealth

Join WorthPoint on Twitter and Facebook.

What is an antique map?

To be considered antique, a map must have been printed more than 100 years ago by one of three main processes.

The earliest maps were generally printed from a wooden block that had been cut in relief (the printed area standing out from the rest) and then inked. This type of map can be seen in the work of Munster (circa 1550), among others. Most of these maps were not colored.

1647 Blaeu map

(If you’d like more information about any of the pictured items, click on the image.)

Copper and steel engravings form the vast majority of antique maps found today. Here, the image was cut, in reverse, into the metal plate, which was then inked, placed with a sheet of paper in a press. The ink in the grooves would produce the image.

Copper, a softer metal, in common use from the early 1500s until about 1820, would produce relatively few maps before having to be beaten out and re-engraved. Steel was introduced in the early 1800s and quickly replaced copper because finer lines could be engraved and far more maps printed on this harder metal. Nearly all engraved maps dated after 1830 were produced on steel.

Surface printing or lithography also started in the early 1800s and allowed the artist or mapmaker to draw directly on to a specially prepared stone. This was cheaper and faster (no engraver was needed), but most lithographic maps have a fuzzy quality that does not endear them to many. This method can be used with several colors (each color needs a separate stone) but can result in overlapping of colors in some of the poorer efforts.

1882 Mitchell map of Asia

Antique map of Strait of Magellan

By the late 1880s, modern machine lithography and printing were taking over, and maps lost their decorative quality.

Condition of antique maps

Descriptions of antique maps’ condition found in catalogs are about as subjective as it can get. One dealer’s “excellent” might be another dealer’s “good.” A description can do a lot to convey information about condition, but across a range of catalogs, comparability has yet to be achieved. Some dealers omit condition statements entirely, presumably on the assumption that their reputation is sufficient—and often it is—especially with a return guarantee. Of necessity, auction catalogs generally have more extended descriptions of condition since misinformation can invalidate a sale.

Antique maps are paper items that are subject to wear and tear similar to any item that was intended to be used. Nearly all come from atlases, which may have been roughly handled, indeed. Sea charts may have traveled many times around the world—and inevitably may have marginal tears or repairs to them. Below is a classification guide to grade condition. Minor defects include marginal tears, slight brown spotting from paper aging, shadowing where ink is transferred across a folded map and slight creasing of the paper. Do not confuse the centerfold in most maps with creasing. Many larger maps were intended to be folded into atlases.

Rare 1740 map of Jerusalem

Major defects include tears, which enter the printed surface, actual loss of printed surface, defacing by writing on the map surface and severe browning on poorer paper. Major defects are more common in maps from the 1800s and earlier, which could make that map totally undesirable. Rarer, older maps may only be obtainable in a degraded condition. Either way, the condition will be reflected in the price that the collector pays.

Buy a map in the best condition that you could reasonably expect for its age and price. The rarer and older it is, the more forgiving you should be about condition.

Art Source International adopted the following condition codes from “The Antique Map Price Record & Handbook 1998.” Included here are a letter grade and a short descriptive statement.

Antique military map of northern France

1769 Clouet world map

(A+) Excellent condition
Clean and bright with crisp engraved lines. On sound paper with wide margins. Fine quality coloring.

(A) Very good condition
Clean and bright with crisp engraved lines. On sound paper with no imperfections in the image. Small tears or minor discoloration in the margin only. Very good quality coloring.

(B) Good condition
No significant imperfections. Minor spotting, foxing, short separations on centerfold with no image loss or overall age toning may be present. May have narrow margins, but paper is still sound. Good coloring.

(C) Fair Condition
Noticeable imperfections. Scattered foxing or spotting. Long separations on centerfold or tears entering image that can be easily repaired. Color may be slightly faded.

1755 Colonial America map

(D) Poor Condition
Needs significant repair and cleaning. Paper may be highly acid and brittle. Color may be faded.

How Can I be Sure That a Map is Genuine?

The simple answer is that you cannot, but all reputable dealers (and this is 99 percent of the antique-map trade) will only sell the genuine item. Antique maps are printed on distinctive paper in a definite style so that it is very expensive to succeed in deceiving. Only the most expensive items would be worth faking, and there is no evidence that this has been done to any great degree.

There are plenty of reproductions around, but they are usually easy to spot and were never intended to deceive. They will often have the date of reproduction on them or be printed on modern glossy paper, rather than the rag paper of past centuries. In any case, it is best to buy from established dealers who will guarantee the authenticity of their stock.

WorthPoint—Discover Your Hidden Wealth

Join WorthPoint on Twitter and Facebook.

Data—millions and millions of items of data—is what WorthPoint and Terapeak, a subsidiary of Advanced E-commerce Research Systems Inc., are offering WorthPoint members.

WorthPoint has signed a seven-year contract with Terapeak, the company that provides eBay users with trending data. That’s how savvy eBay sellers know how to price an item and smart buyers know what to pay for it.

Easy access in one place to the most prices

Under the new partnership, WorthPoint will be able to offer its members more historical prices than anyone in the world—more than 100 million historical prices by the end of 2009 and more than one billion items over the course of the contract.

Will Seippel, WorthPoint’s CEO, promises to make this data accessible in an easy-to-use format. And he is a man of his word! To me, accessibility means whether I am at an antiques store, a show or shopping online, I have access to this information when I need it most. I want to know whether the price I am willing to pay is reasonable and that I am not about to get fleeced.

Almost as good as shopping with an expert

In my perfect world, I’d head into an antique store with the ranks of Worthologists right behind me. If I wanted to buy a clock, I’d whisper to Mark Peer, WorthPoint’s clock expert, “What do you think, Mark? Is that a good deal?” Or if I found a Mary Alice Hadley platter, I’d want our pottery expert, Audra Blevins, with me. And if I were considering buying a Shaker rocker, I’d definitely want to confide in Fred Taylor, our American furniture Worthologist. In the real world, however, Mark, Audra and Fred live east of the Mississippi, and I live in Colorado.

Get info from computers or cell phones

With this new partnership, I can access millions of historical prices with a few keystrokes on my computer. And as WorthPoint also owns PriceMiner, I can also get this data on my iPhone or any other cell phone with Internet access. That means I can have millions of historical price records with me whenever I shop, wherever I shop. I can find out what other people have recently paid for the item I want to buy while I’m right there in the store! I can also access the collective wisdom of these buyers and experts before I make my offer.

Access to data—through WorthPoint and Terapeak’s partnership—will allow me to buy and sell as though I have an expert whispering average prices in my ear. It’s not as good as taking a squad of Worthologists with me, but it is the next best thing!

This is why data is my new best friend.

For more information, see WorthPoint Signs Partnership Agreement with eBay Research and Education Firm Terapeak. For more information about PriceMiner, click here.