Now that they’ve been washed, the linens are clean and ready to use. The final touch that really brings them to life is a good pressing. I’ve heard people brag that they don’t even own an iron. I actually find ironing linens and textiles to be relaxing. Try ironing while watching TV or listening to your favorite music.

A good iron does make a difference. I prefer the Rowenta irons, which have a smooth stainless soleplate and easily regulated temperature settings. They are also heavier, which facilitates the ironing. The weight helps press out the wrinkles and leave a smooth finish.

Antique Cast Iron Sad Iron: This weighty iron build up the arm and shoulder muscles why finishing the laundry. Marked “U D X 5″ on the top, this iron measures and weighs 4.5 pounds. Wow, what a job getting your laundry caught up! Offered by GoAntiques dealer Pieces of the Past.

Textiles are much easier to iron when they are still slightly damp. If something is completely dry, then dampen it with a spray bottle. If there is any embroidery or needlework on the piece, place it face down on a soft towel and iron the back. This prevents the stitching from getting smashed by the iron. Also, avoid ironing in creases. Repeatedly ironing along the same crease lines will eventually break down the fabric and cause weak areas.

Never iron fabric at too high a setting. If, by accident you get a light scorch mark (not a burn, but a light pale brown scorching), don’t worry the piece isn’t ruined. You can resoak the item to remove the scorch mark. Sometimes, if the iron is too hot and there’s any detergent residue left in the fabric from a poor rinsing, it will scorch easily.

Vintage Electric Iron and Storage Rack: This vintage General Electric steam iron comes with its own special holding, storage rack. Titled “True Heat” and sold by Betty Crocker, it has the steam attachment and is in working condition. Offered by GoAtniques dealer Globe Antiques and Collectibles.

I’m often asked by customers what kind of starch I use. Well, I don’t use any. I don’t like starch or the stiff roughness it gives to wonderful old linens. I prefer the soft natural feel of the fabric. A well-ironed tablecloth will lie on a table and fall beautifully over the edges eliminating any need for starch. Too much starch can take away from the natural feel and draping of the fabric.

If you absolutely must starch something, don’t starch it and then store it. Starch yellows over time, causing stains that can be difficult to remove. Some starches, particularly the older ones, attract bugs that eat the starch and the fabric along with it. Iron and starch an item just before using. Then be sure to wash it well after it’s been used and before putting it away.

In general, it’s best to store linens before they are ironed and then iron them before using. Never store linens or textiles where they will be in contact with wood. This will deteriorate the fabric and cause yellowing and brown staining, which can be very difficult to remove. Always wrap linens or textiles in acid-free paper or cotton to protect them. An old cotton sheet works great for this.

And never store textiles in plastic! Fabric consists of natural fibers that need to breathe. If you plan to store tablecloths, napkins or runner for a long time, roll then on a cardboard tube covered in acid free paper. This prevents fold line creases from setting in, which again may weaken the fabric.

Tablecloths and runners can be stored draped over a wide hanger to avoid creasing. Never use a wire hanger, unless it has a cardboard tube or something to protect the items from the metal. With any hanger, especially wooden ones, place either acid-free paper or a cotton sheet between the hanger and the tablecloth to protect it. If you don’t plan to use it for awhile, cover it with another piece of acid-free paper or sheet to keep the dust off.

With a little care and attention, your vintage and antique textiles and linens will last for many more generations, providing a wonderful keepsake to pass on to your family. But most importantly, don’t be afraid to use them and enjoy them as they were meant to be.

Lynda Kolski is a Worthologist who specializes in early linens and textiles.

The one question that I get asked over and over whenever I’m doing a show is: “How do you get your linens so clean?” The answer is not very exotic: A lot of soaking and patience! Antique and vintage linens require gentle care, but in most cases, can be used and enjoyed for years to come.

Soaking and washing will clean most linen quite nicely. Occasionally, there will be a spot or stain that just won’t come out. In that case, all you can do is accept it as part of the piece and think of it as adding character. Often, a stain can be minimized so that it doesn’t distract from your enjoyment of the overall piece.

Antique Linen Damask Monogrammed Tablecloth or topper:  A wonderful old piece of damask linen, offered for sale by Victorian House Antiques on GoAntiques.  The piece is noted to be 28.5 x 34 inches, and is in good condition with only one spot.  That spot might be able to be soaked out.

Cotton and linen damask tablecloths and napkins, damask and huck towels, sheets and pillowcases should be soaked in lukewarm water mixed with Biz or Oxy-Clean. Although Oxy-Clean is fairly new to the market, Biz has been around for years and is an old laundry staple. Don’t be afraid to let the items soak for hours, even days. Check the item to see if the stains are still there, mix a fresh solution and soak again. I’ve soaked items two and three times until the offending stain or spot was either gone or reduced enough that it didn’t detract from the piece.

Sears Linen and Cotton Table Cloth and Napkins 1936 Ad:  A Sears ad shows damask table cloths and napkins and their prices in 1936.  Antique linen can still be used today if you take care and wash carefully.  The ad is courtesy of GoAntiques dealers Charles & Phyllis J. Wille.

Both Biz and Oxy-Clean are great at getting out all kinds of stains. I’ve even removed red wine stains from a tablecloth with Oxy-Clean. However, never soak any fabrics with rayon, silk, wool or metallic threads in either stain cleaner. Also, if the item has any colored embroidery on it, go cautiously. A lot of early embroidery threads were not colorfast, particularly, the reds, blues, and purples. Start with cold water and watch it. If any color appears in the water, immediately remove the items and rinse in cold water. If the water stays clear, let it go a little longer, but keep an eye on it. If after awhile, you don’t see any discoloration in the water, the thread is probably colorfast.

Carefully remove linens and textiles from water. The weight of the water can pull and stretch the fabrics or even tear them. Many old fabrics are very fragile when wet. It’s best to use an old towel as a sling to pick items out of the water. Never wring old textiles or linens. Gently roll them in an absorbent towel to remove the excess water.

Once you’re done soaking, rinse the item in water until the water is clear. Damask and linen textiles can usually be put in the washing machine in cold water on a delicate cycle. Use a mild detergent, such as Ivory. Any pieces with intricate handwork, such as drawnwork, or lace should always be gently handwashed.

Sun bleaching is another method for cleaning linens. This is a technique that dates back generations when grass fields in Europe were known as bleaching fields. I’ve never had the opportunity to try this, since my yard is full of trees with no large sunny areas. However, I’ve heard great success stories from many textile experts and collectors who have used this technique. After soaking an item, rinse and wash it, and then lay it out on green grass in the sun. This works particularly well with damask and huck tablecloths, napkins, towels and sheets. A few cautions: Colored tablecloths and linens will fade in the sun, and watch out for birds, insects and roaming neighborhood cats and dogs.

Huge Damask Huck Linen/Lace – Towel:  This beautiful antique towel, made from cottage damask huck linen and adorned with hand-made lace, also listed by Victorian House Antiques on GoAntiques, is listed as in excellent condition, with a few faint spots.

Chlorine bleach should never be used except in rare instances as a last resort. Bleach is very harsh on delicate fabrics. I never soak an entire piece in bleach. On a few occasions, when all other attempts have failed, I may spot-treat a stain with bleach. Bleach pens are good for this. I’ll do this only on sturdy white fabrics, such as damask or huck. After treating the area, be sure to rinse the entire piece thoroughly. I would rather have a small spot than a hole in a nice vintage or antique textile.

Rust stains are some of the toughest to remove. Whink, a rust spot remover, often works. However, this is a strong chemical, so read the label carefully and use sparingly. A paste made from lemon juice and salt may also work. Often, rust is one of those stains that you have to learn to live with.

Once your linens are clean and fresh, hang them to dry. I don’t recommend a dryer because the high temperature can be hard on delicate or old fabrics.

Wonderful linens and textiles should be used and enjoyed. I have hand-crocheted pieces from my great-grandmother that I cherish despite a few spots and worn areas. She was a prolific crocheter and would be thrilled to know that her pieces had been passed down and were still being used and enjoyed rather than stored in a drawer. Unless it’s a rare museum piece (in which case it should probably be in a museum), don’t be afraid to display and enjoy your collection and heirlooms.

WorthPoint: Get the Most from Your Antiques and Collectibles