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19th C. Manuscript Cookbook Puebla, Mexico 690+ recipes
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19th C. Manuscript Cookbook Puebla, Mexico 690+ recipes
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I acquired this 290 page manuscript cookbook from a woman in Puebla , Mexico , who told me it came from a local family and dated to the mid to late 19th century. The notebook is undated, but the look of the book and the handwriting are consistent with her dates. Additionally, a small bookplate on the inside back cover shows a griffin holding a book and the words "libro mayor" and below this, "A. M Paris" and a serial number "No. 49891". I have seen a similar notebook with an identical bookplate and the serial number 74973 which dates to the late 1880's, so it is likely that this cuaderno was produced earlier. The inclusion of many Poblano dishes, including a considerable number of convent sweets, supports her claim that the book came from a Puebla household. Inside, the more than 690 recipes reflect the rich variety of influences which characterize Poblano cuisine. Recipes for typical Spanish dishes include sausages such Chorizones, Butifarras, and Salchichon, as well as chanfiana and even criadillas, (pig testicles cooked with garlic and parsley,) and ingredients like sherry, almonds, and saffron. Puff pastry, wine, cognac, and the use of bain marie appear among many other indications of the influence of the recently departed French on Poblano cooking. Convent goodies appear in abundance, including postre de sapote prieto, almendras garrapinadas, jigote, ates, camotes, cajetas, a vast number of flans, custards, cremas, mazapanes, cocada, pan dulces, and galletas, and quite a few recipes whose names end in :"a la monjita". And of course, produce and recipes indigenous to Mexico including pitihaya, chicozapote, chirimolla, epazote, cilantro, maiz de cacahuacentle, chiles of all kinds, escabeches, atoles, salsas pipian, and of course, chocolate. Puebla 's position on the road to the port of Veracruz ensured a steady supply of seafood, and this book contains an abundance of recipes for an astonishing variety including camarones, langosto, robalo, salmon, bacalao, bagre, ostiones, pampano, tortuga, pulpo, jaibas, almejas, pescado blanco, lamprea, sardinas, hostiones, (shrimp, lobster, seabass, salmon, cod, catfish, oysters, panpano, turtle, octopus, crab, clams, whitefish, eel, sardines, and a kind of small clam,) and more. I thought "Pescado en nogada de pinon y almendra" sounded especially good. The cuaderno has recipes for more than sixty soups, preparations for all kinds of meats; beef, lamb, pork, and deer, as well as chicken, turkey, pigeon, and duck. T are beverages, breads, and of course, desserts. It is not possible to list all the recipes that are included in this book, but a quick glance brings up: Lentejas muy sabrosa, Pescada en ajo con pan de la misma, Enchiladas de San Blas, Camarones en Pimienta, Escabeche de Veracruz, Roballo Relleno, Tortas de Joajaca (Oaxaca) de Senora Enciso, Mostachones Hoajaquenos (Oaxacenos,) Guayabate Moreliano, Postre de Chicozapote de la Monjita Teresita, Dulce de Leche, Cajeta de Calabaza o Melon, Chocolate con almendra, chocolate sin almendra, Boca de Dama, Merengues de Dona Alberta, just to name a few. One which has me very curious is called, "Huevos en caja de papel", and indeed the cook makes small square boxes of paper and flour paste and cracks an egg into each and cooks them over a low fire. I thought at first that only one hand was at work on this manuscript, but now I think t may have been two. Most of the book is written in an exquisitely delicate hand. W the ink has faded, it has been retraced long ago in a less sure hand. Whether this is someone else's or the original author's at a somewhat later date is unclear. A few corrections are inserted by the author on slips of thin blue paper, beginning, "por equiboco no puse que se la pone a las tortas...(etc.)" In some places, the writing is looser, almost careless, though still graceful; this may be someone else, or the same person, in more of a hurry. A few of the recipes are attributed to one Senora or another, and some must have come from a domestic servant from another ...
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