axle holes moved back Lightning fast Pinewood Derby Car 100% BSA leagel!

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Lightning fast Official BSA Pinewood Derby CarRail Rider!This car is built from the BSA Kit using drilled axle holes moved back for the speed advantage You are bidding on a Lightning fast Cub Scout Pinewood derby car that will pass 95% of the pack and district rules. You are buying speed and good looks. Don't be fooled by other cars with a sticker or a ruff sand and slop of paint. The car is made from the official BSA derby kit. This is a rail riding car. The reason why I am offering this car at auction is because it is a cosmetic blem. Although the car is smoking fast, I did not like the way that the pinstripes came out. I did not notice until I took the photos. Because to, “fix” the pin stripping would require taking the car apart, I thought that I would offer this fast car at auction and let the free market decide its value. The walking back and forth the 35 foot track gets time consuming during the tuning process. Because the axles are epoxy glued in place, it would mean a new set of axles and possibly a new set of wheels. Just because I am not happy with the appearance, does not mean that you and your scout won’t be. It will still look better than 90% of the cars at the race this season. And , it is suppose to be scout built! This Rail Riding car runs on 3 wheels, Only 3 wheels touch the track. The center of mass is moved back, it is moved back for speed, but not so much that the car turns into a touchy car that is either in first, or a fish tailing looser. Contamination on the track, limits how far you can move the weight back on the car. BSA races are not run under ideal conditions. Many people use to much graphite on there car. That means that the wheels with world class weight placement will loose traction and fish tail. This car is designed for a BSA race, not an adult professional race. Before you buy this or any other car on Ebay, send me your rules. With the Rules in hand I can recommend upgrades such as grooved axles, lightened wheels, and changes in width, and length of the wheel locations! Axles Official BSA axles The axles heads have been reshaped, squared, and polished for ultimate speed. Every surface of the axle head and bearing surface have been straightened, trued, and polished for maximum BSA graphite speed. Wheels Official BSA wheels 2.5g The outside hub has been cut to remove the stepped surface and shaped to a slight inner cone to move the bearing surface as close to the axle as possible. This trick is found on very expensive wheels. The inside hub has been sanded and polished for a smooth running wheel. Tread of the wheel is squared, polished and centered to the hub center making a smooth round true running wheel. The Final wheel treatment step is a polish of all surfaces with graphite for a slick wheel. There is no machine work done of any kind to the inside wheel surface to ensure you pass a technical inspection. The wheels have been hand selected and matched for quality, diameter, and weight. Because of production tolerance, there are wheels and axles that can’t be made great from any mold. Some molds are better than others, I believe it is my duty to provide you with great wheels from any mold that I can. A mold number has nothing to do with a worked wheel. There are wheels from all molds that end up in the garbage. Cleaning and truing the inner bore is usually the limiting factor. I will not sell a bad wheel because it simply has the same number. Mold matching is hype not science. Does it sound like getting a bad wheel from a “numbered mold” a good idea to you”? Body/paint This car is made from the official BSA block. The first step is to bake the block so that it holds the cut, and shaped tolerance. BSA is not selling furniture grade sugar pine blocks. It is only C select pine. Working the block for a race that could be weeks away is just as important as the wheels and axles. The block primed with a sealer to ensure that it does not absorb moisture. After... read more

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