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One of Coro's most gorgeous and feminine duette designs, this combination brooch and clips set is an early example with evident Art Deco flair. The highly dimensional enameled and jeweled flowers remind me of Paulding Farnham's orchid brooches made for Tiffany in Art Nouveau times, but here the exotic motif is updated and made more playful via a stylized modernist spin.
Loaded with diamond rhinestones and accented by faux amethysts tucked within each bud and trumpet-shaped center, the jewel has rich yellow gold plating and thick enamelwork in shades of pink and green. Condition is lovely, although not perfect. Age-appropriate wear to the gilt surface is apparent on the clips, clip mechanism and high points of the backs, but it takes high magnification to notice any problems on the front (minor losses of gilding and some darkening of clear rhinestones). The vivid enamels remain in amazingly good shape -- demonstrating great care by the former owner, who wore and enjoyed the jewel but certainly cherished it. Provenance is a Texas estate.
The patent number 1798867, which appears on the clip mechanism, was issued May 29, 1930, and -- unlike many later Coro duettes -- this one shows no separate design number. Assuming a 1930-1931 production date, the jewel is already antique by American 75-year standards. Signed in script Coro Duette, it reached us from a Texas estate.
Fine enameled duettes by Coro now sell elsewhere online for up to $395, so they're highly collectible -- and, of course, their versatility is a great plus. When the clips are worn together as a brooch, the size is about 2 3/4 by 1 1/2 inches. As separate clips, each measures about 1 3/8 inches by 1 1/4 inches. Depth is at least 1/4 inch from back to front (hard to measure).
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