PLEASE READ THE FOLLOWING BEFORE BIDDING. THIS IS THE GUIDE I USE TO GRADE THE CONDITION OF MY KNIVES. IF AFTER READING AND REVIEWING THE PICTURES YOU STILL HAVE SPECIFIC QUESTIONS PLEASE FEEL FREE TO EMAIL ME. I AM NOT AN EXPERT ON KNIVES, BUT WILL BE AS FORTHCOMING AS POSSIBLE TO INSURE YOU ARE HAPPY WITH YOUR BID. IF IN ANY WAY YOU ARE UNSURE ABOUT WHAT YOU ARE BIDDING ON OR THE CONDITION IS NOT WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING FOR PLEASE DO NOT BID. ALL KNIVES SOLD AS-IS.
I WILL COMBINE SHIPPING, BUT PLEASE EMAIL ME IF YOU ARE BIDDING ON MULTIPLE AUCTIONS SO I CAN SEND YOU AN ACCURATE INVOICE BEFORE PAYING FOR ITEM. THANKS.
The following assumes mint is 100%.The pricing of our knives follows the percentages of the 9 categories like this: New Manufactures Suggested List Price, or less Pristine Mint 100% plus Mint 100% Near Mint 80-90% Excellent 50-70% Very Good 40-50% Good 25% Poor 5-10% Junk under $10.00
As an example a near mint knife is worth 10% to 20% less than a mint knife. A excellent knife is worth 30% to 50% less than a mint knife. A knife in very good condition is worth 50% to 60% less than a mint knife. A good knife is worth 75% less than a mint knife. A poor knife is worth 90% to 95% less than a mint knife.New : Never sold to a customer and never used. New as shipped by the manufacturer or distributor with all original packing (box, sheath, etc.) and instructions. Knives or any merchandise sold as "New" must be eligible for full warranty service from the officially authorized importer, distributor, or factory in the USA. New is what most knife stores sell and they are generally current production knives. For years the standard for knife collectors has been the National Knife Collectors Association grading, established in 1973. Basically it is a sound grading standard, but as collecting has advanced many dealers adapted additional descriptions, and the overall collecting field has changed, to the point that many dealers feel there should be a more detailed grading system. The basic grading standards have been left intact, but what follows is a clarification and enhancement of those standards, and also the reasons for the revisions. Cracks. One important exception: Cracks will occur in mint knives. If it is mint for everything except a crack, the knife is still mint-–it is only mint with a crack. This should downgrade the value approximately 10% on most knives. New Category:
Pristine Mint: The coin world would call this MS-63-65, the ultimate in quality and condition–not just mint, but mint plus something, good fit, no specks on a very old knife, etc. Suffice to say there are very, very few of these out there. Perfect plus. Mint : The standard mint, unsharpened, never used, and never carried extensively.
Revision: Almost any knife made prior to World War II is going to have some rust specks here and there. If you only wait for mint New York Knife Company knives with no rust specks, for instance, you are going to get very few. Some knives that were mint in 1970 have now been in storage for over 30 years–and they are starting to show some neglect spots here and there as well. I look for this to get worse in the future, since few collectors pay the attention they should to the maintenance of knives in their collection–and at that point the value of even rarer pristine mint knives will increase. Important exception: Case knives still must have no rust to be mint. An old Case knife with a rust speck is not a mint knife. Case collectors are stricter in their grading than other knife collectors. Near Mint: Nothing wrong with the knife, sharpened but no blade wear, some original polish still visible, carry scratches on the outside, walks and talks, no deep rust pits, full blades. (A mint knife that has rusted and been cleaned back to near perfect shape is near mint....
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