WWII Army commissioned officers Shin-GuntÅ 1938

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JAPANESE KATANA SWORD TOTAL LENGTH 42" BLADE LENGTH 29" FEATURES ? Saya:Iron scabbard , Green gloss lacquered sheath , O ne suspension mount, Spring-clip , Metal fitting The mounting from ancient times was arranged in a modern style. Tsuba :A mallow-shaped openwork guard All the washers equipment ,Protection- against-dust In 1932, the army revised the hilt of the Type 32 Gunto for a noncommissioned officer and privates in Japanese sword form (Type 32 Gunto Kai). This was Japanese sword form only the hilt, and the scabbard was a saber form as usual. the army proclaimed the mounting of the new Gunto which made the Japanese Tachi the model as a Gunto for officers. This is an army formality Gunto (common-name Type 98) of the 1938 establishment. ? My Store: Military swords Katana Wakizashi Tanto Tsuba Sword Fittings Free shipping Speial Offer Gift Gallery Sword Maintance--How to Prevent Rust Rust is the major enemy of the Japanese sword blade. The best course of action is to prevent rust rather than to have to remove it. If possible the sword should be kept at relatively constant temperature and humidity. A thin coat of a light, non-acidic lubricating oil is all that is needed. a special oil, CHOJI OIL , for this use. It protects well and has a nice aroma also. The blade should be re-oiled occasionally to prevent the old oil from becoming gummy. Wipe the old oil off with a clean, soft, WHITE cloth or tissue paper. Don't use colored materials as the oil may cause the color to "bleed" onto the sword and stain it. Gentle wiping action is all that is required not vigorous rubbing. Don't "soak" the blade with oil, just use a very light coating. Complete sword care kits are available and perfect for the sword owners. ? Nice sword bags add to beauty for your lovely swords WORLDWIDE EXPRESS MAIL (3-10 DAYS) .cn WE CAN COMBINE MULTIPLE WINNING BIDS TO REDUCE SHIP COSTS PLEASE contact me anytime via email : NOTE:I won't send the sword to Russia and Italy HANDMADE SWORD Real handmade swords have a wood grain like pattern in the outer skin called the jihada. It comes from laminating many layers of steel to make the blade flexible. The blades are made by starting with a piece of hard steel to serve as the foundation of the sword. The skin or is made of hundreds of layers of softer steel that serve as a way to make the sword more flexible and resistant to breaking. Next the sword is covered in a ceramic like clay with just the cutting portion of the blade exposed and heated and tempered. This results in a very hard cutting edge on a flexible yet hard blade. Then the blade is adorned with artwork like the tsuba and handle and scabbard. CONSERVATION 1>Do not attempt to sharpen the blade. The use of sharpening stones or (heaven forbid) a grinding wheel can cause the total destruction of the sword from a collectors standpoint. It takes special training skill and tools to properly polish and sharpen the sword. 2>Do not use sandpaper, steel wool or any abrasive materials on any part of the blade including the tang (nakago). These will scratch the blade and detract from its beauty. 3>Do not use ANY type of metal polish on the parts of the sword handle, guard or scabbard. The fittings on the sword are generally not supposed to be bright and shiny. 4>Do not handle the blade with bare hands. The oils and acids from your skin can cause the blade to rust (in some cases it may stain almost immediately). Use a clean cloth around the blade to handle it. 5> Whenever one draws a mounted sword out of its bag or scabbard, make sure the position of the hilt does not go lower than the scabbard. POLICY 1> If you are unsatisfied with the item, please contact us for an agreeable resolvent. 2>ONLY accept PA... read more

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